I have christened the soup we had for dinner last night "End-of-Winter Soup". Sadly, the name reflects my wishes more than the reality of the weather. Yes, it is March...and we should be beginning to warm up, but this has been such a strange winter that I don't hold out too much hope that winter is actually done. Certainly soup was an appropriate dinner choice in the context of yesterday's weather: It was the coldest it has been all year. Soup...or a braise...or something similarly warming...was definitely in order.
It was actually the contents of my vegetable drawer
that caused me to think of my soup as "end of winter". I knew that I ought to be able to come up
with something for dinner without making a trip to the store...but my vegetable
crisper was filled with lots of odds and ends...no one thing leapt out. Since it was almost entirely root vegetables,
it really did look to me like the culinary remains of winter. I had singletons of parsnip and celery
root...a couple of kohlrabi (from a bunch purchased to test a recipe which only
called for one...)...a big bag of carrots (I always have carrots)...and--on the
counter—a scrawny sweet potato. I also
had some winter squash and cauliflower, but I decided I really wanted to use up
the lonely sweet potato, parsnip and celery root. Soup was the perfect solution.
Several years ago I taught a few classes at my local
Williams-Sonoma. The classes were a bit
different than those that I normally teach in that I was given a list of topics
to choose from and then asked to teach recipes that had already been developed
for Williams-Sonoma. (In all of my other classes I propose my own topics and
choose my own recipes—often recipes I have developed myself.) I have kept many of these Williams-Sonoma recipes
in my repertoire...tweaking them as time has gone by. The inspiration for yesterday's soup was one
of those recipes: a simple vegetable barley soup developed by Joanne Weir.
As I looked at the original recipe so I could credit it for this post, I noticed that I have changed it so much over the years that it is not really recognizable any more. Even if I made it with the same list of vegetables and herbs...and used pearled barley instead of farro...it wouldn't be. But I wanted to mention it for a couple of reasons. First, I always want to credit inspiration. Inspiration is elusive...and it always means so much when I hear that I have inspired someone else. I want to try and do the same for others. But secondly, and probably of more interest to readers, is that I think the changes will be instructive for anyone wanting to make a soup with the current contents of their pantry.
The first thing I changed was to begin the soup by
sweating some onion in some melted butter. As far as I am concerned, this is
pretty much the only way to begin making soup.
Cooking onions (or leeks...or shallots....) in a generous quantity of
fat (butter, rendered bacon fat, olive oil, etc.) until softened infuses the fat
with the sweet flavor of the onions. The
fat then carries this flavor throughout the soup, giving it a depth of flavor
not found in soups made by simply simmering the onions in the liquid. The result is completely worth the extra
fifteen minutes or so that it will take.
And if you are worried about the added calories, please don't be. Without it, the soup won't be nearly as
satisfying. And even considering that I
began my soup with five tablespoons of butter, it really isn't that much when
you take into account the fact that you will be making at least two quarts of
soup.
The other main difference in the soups (obvious from
the pictures) is the size of the vegetables.
I cut my vegetables much smaller.
I love getting lots of different kinds of vegetables in each bite, and
this is made possible by the smaller cuts.
I also wanted to mirror the size of the cooked grain more closely. Somehow large, fat chunks of vegetables didn't
seem like a harmonious combination with the comparatively diminutive grains of
farro (or barley, in the case of Weir's soup).
 |
| From left to right: kohlrabi, celeriac, sweet potato, carrot and parsnip. |
If you don't want to cut the vegetables quite so small
(although...this is a great way to practice your knife skills!), then consider
replacing the grain with something large...like some cooked white beans or a
large noodle (orrechiette, for example).
If you make the soup with beans, add them with the Brussels
sprouts. If you use canned beans, rinse
them before adding. If you have cooked
your own, add them along with their delicious cooking liquid. Pasta should be cooked separately and added
only to the soup that will be served. If
it is added to all of the soup and allowed to sit, it will continue to absorb
liquid and become large, soft and mushy.
Simply place a small amount in each bowl and ladle the hot soup right
over it.
As far as the actual contents of my soup went, I
really did just use what I had:
celeriac, parsnip, carrot, sweet potato, kohlrabi, onion, Brussels sprouts and
farro.
You should see what you could make with the
contents of your pantry. Maybe you have
potatoes or winter squash on your counter instead of a sweet potato. If you happened to have them, turnip or
rutabaga (Swedish turnip) would be delicious instead of one of the other root
vegetables. I happen to think that the
parsnip was a particularly important addition...too much would have been
overpowering, but I would have missed its aromatic presence, so I'm glad I
happened to have it. The Brussels
sprouts could be replaced by diced cabbage...or even finely chopped broccoli
florets (as in Weir's original). If you
use broccoli florets, consider peeling and dicing the stems and adding them to
the soup with the root vegetables.
 |
| The cored and thinly sliced Brussels sprouts could be replaced with diced cabbage or minced broccoli florets. |
Finally, when composing your soup, I would recommend limiting your selection of root vegetables to five (or fewer) different kinds. More than that and it seems like the flavors might be too muddied. Finally, please don't use old, tired, wrinkled or otherwise decaying vegetables in your soup. Since root vegetables are good keepers, if you cook with vegetables on a regular basis it would not be unusual to amass a small quantity of odds and ends appropriate for a soup like this one. But if the vegetables in your larder look like they are beginning to compost, they would not be improved by adding them to your soup. And worse the soup will suffer; you will have wasted your time and effort. It is so much better to go with a lesser variety (or a smaller batch of soup).
Last night's soup...served with some cheese and whole
grain bread...did make a very satisfying end to a bitterly cold day. Happily, it also used up most of the stray
items in my vegetable bin. I do still
have half of my celery root...and now I have one solitary kohlrabi...but, not
to worry, I'm sure I'll come up with something.
The weather is set to warm up by the end of the week. Maybe I'll make a batch of
"end-of-winter" slaw....
End of Winter Vegetable Soup with Farro
5 T. unsalted
butter
1 large or two
small onions (about 10 oz.), cut in 1/4-inch dice (2 cups)
3 cloves
garlic, peeled and minced
1 T. minced
fresh thyme
5 c. diced
(1/4- to 1/3-inch) root vegetables (see note)
6 cups chicken
stock (or more, if you prefer a soup with a greater proportion of broth)
1/2 c. pearled
or semi-pearled farro, rinsed
4 to 5 oz.
Brussels sprouts, trimmed, cored and thinly sliced (1 1/2 cups sliced)
2 T. coarsely
chopped flat leaf parsley, optional
In a large
soup pot over medium heat, melt butter.
Add the onion along with a pinch of salt and sweat until very soft
(about 15 minutes). Add the garlic and
thyme and cook another minute or two, or until fragrant. Add the root vegetables and cook until hot
and beginning to sizzle in the butter.
Add the stock and bring to a boil. Taste and season with salt. Add the farro, return to a simmer, cover and simmer gently until the vegetables are almost tender—15 minutes. Add the sprouts, return to a simmer and cook until the farro is tender—another 10 minutes or so. If you would like a soup with a greater proportion of broth, simply add broth (or water) to obtain a soup that pleases you—I prefer a soup that is filled with vegetables that are snug, but moving freely in the broth. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve sprinkled with minced parsley if desired.
Add the stock and bring to a boil. Taste and season with salt. Add the farro, return to a simmer, cover and simmer gently until the vegetables are almost tender—15 minutes. Add the sprouts, return to a simmer and cook until the farro is tender—another 10 minutes or so. If you would like a soup with a greater proportion of broth, simply add broth (or water) to obtain a soup that pleases you—I prefer a soup that is filled with vegetables that are snug, but moving freely in the broth. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve sprinkled with minced parsley if desired.
Makes about 2 quarts of soup.
Notes
&Variations:
- As noted in my post, I simply used the root vegetables that I had on hand...1 large parsnip, 1 small (6 oz.) sweet potato, 1 medium kohlrabi, 1/2 a celeriac and 1 large carrot to round it out. But you could also use potato, turnip, rutabaga (swede), or winter squash. I would limit the variety of root vegetables to 3 to 5 different kinds.
- If you like...and you have it on hand...a couple of leeks would be a delicious substitution for the onion.
- Cabbage would be a fine substitute for the Brussels sprouts. Cut it small squares to mirror the other vegetable shapes. Or, follow Joanne Weir's lead and use chopped (small) broccoli tips instead of cabbage. If you use broccoli, peel and dice the stems and use them as part of your volume of "root vegetables"...adding them to the soup when you add the root vegetables.
