Fall Fruit Compote of Wine-Poached Pears & Dried Fruits

Occasionally I teach a class on autumn desserts.  It includes a nice variety of classics—filled with fall ingredients—that everyone loves...fruit, chocolate and nut filled tarts, a simple cake (featuring sweet potatoes!), and a light and ethereal bread pudding.  I think everyone expects to like all of these things.  But the sleeper hit of the class is always a simple dish of poached fall fruits.  I'm not sure why (perhaps it conjures images of stewed prunes?), but people are always a bit dubious when they see this recipe in their packet.  Then they taste it....

I have not posted this recipe before because I can't make it for you...thus giving you the opportunity to taste it without going to the effort of making it yourself.  I can only ask you to trust me when I say that this is a seriously elegant and delicious dessert.  It is sweet...but sophisticated—definitely a dessert for grown-ups.  I love it all by itself...with maybe a little bit of mascarpone whipped cream...and perhaps a platter of biscotti. 

If you have never poached fruit, you should give it a try—it is an easy technique to learn.  I wrote a basics post on how to poach pears (for a tart) a few years ago.  The recipe I'm posting today uses the exact same method to begin.  Then, after the pears are done, the dried fruits are steeped—and plumped—in the poaching liquid.  They add rich flavor and beautiful color. 

Depending on the ripeness of the pears (and thus how long you have to cook them), you may need to reduce the poaching syrup by simmering briefly after all of the fruits are finished.  But be careful not to overdo it.  The final syrup should be a light and fluid nectar—perfect for sipping from a spoon...or for dunking those biscotti. 

Once you try this recipe, you will want to make it for your friends and family.  If you feel the need to tempt people into sampling it, serve it with a slice of pound cake (everyone loves pound cake).  Any good pound cake will do, but I'm particularly partial to an Italian one—Amor Polenta—that I posted a few years ago.  The almond and cornmeal are a fantastic match for the pears and dried fruits.  You can tell your guests that the fruit is a garnish.  Once they taste it they will realize that in this case the cake is definitely the supporting player...and the fruit is the star of the show. 

Fall Fruit Compote of Wine-Poached Pears & Dried Fruit

1 (750 ml) bottle white wine

3 c. sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 cinnamon stick

3 or 4 whole cloves

3 or 4 strips (3- by 1/2-inch) of lemon zest

3 or 4 strips (3- by 1/2-inch) of orange zest

6 firm but ripe pears, peeled, halved (or quartered) and cored

1 c. dried figs, hard stems trimmed

1 c. dried apricots

3/4 c. pitted prunes

1/2 c. dried tart cherries

In a saucepan large enough to hold all of the pears, combine the wine, 3 c. water, sugar and flavorings.  Bring this to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.  While the poaching liquid cooks, cut a round of parchment that is slightly larger than the pan and cut a hole in the center (this will act as a "lid" and help keep the fruit fully submerged in the liquid—it is called a cartouche).  

When the syrup is ready, add the pears, press the parchment round to the surface of the liquid, lower the heat and barely simmer until the tip of a knife will go in and out without resistance.  Cooking time varies greatly depending on the ripeness of the pears—start checking after 10 minutes for very ripe pears.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pears to a platter. 

Return the poaching liquid to a simmer and add the dried fruits.   Simmer gently until the dried fruits are tender (they will soften and some will swell slightly)—5 to 10 minutes or so. 

Depending on how ripe the pears were the liquid may need to be reduced a bit.  If you would like to reduce the poaching liquid at all, lift out the dried fruits and add them to the plate with the pears.  Return the poaching liquid to the pan and simmer until it has thickened slightly (but no thicker than maple syrup...or a dessert wine). 

Remove the pan from the heat and return the pears and dried fruits to the pan of poaching liquid.  Cool and store the pears and dried fruits in the poaching liquid. 

Serve the compote chilled.  Remove the vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves and zests before serving.  I like to halve the figs lengthwise before serving to expose their lovely interior.  If the prunes and/or apricots are especially large, you might consider halving them as well.

Whether I am serving this as a stand alone dessert—or to accompany a slice of cake—I like to serve it with mascarpone whipped cream sweetened with some of the poaching liquid (see below).

(Recipe adapted from Barefoot Contessa Parties!, by Ina Garten)

Maspcarpone Whipped Cream:  Place 8 oz. of mascarpone in a mixing bowl along with a cup of heavy cream and 1/2 cup of poaching liquid.  Whisk until softly mounding. (To make a smaller—or larger amount—just remember you need 1 T. of poaching liquid for every ounce of mascarpone and ounce of cream.)

Printable Version

Summer Cabbage...Buttered...with Peas & Prosciutto (and a bonus recipe for Cabbage & Kohlrabi Slaw from Ottolenghi)

I used to think of cabbage as a winter food.  It is of course a "storage vegetable" (it keeps well...and for a long period of time).  But my thinking probably had more to do with the fact that I didn't really add cabbage to my diet until I started enjoying Colcannon Potatoes every year for St. Patrick's Day.  It is always abundant in the stores at that time (more for cabbage and corned beef than for Colcannon I suspect...).   And since I am part of a household of just two, there is always a lot of cabbage left from the head I purchase for our Irish feast.  For a couple of weeks after St. Patrick's Day we always enjoy it in various forms—soups, pastas, winter slaws, warm salads and etc.  I'm not sure why I don't purchase it more often...it really is quite versatile. 

As I wrote when I shared her recipe, it didn't dawn on me that summer was the season for cabbage until I ran across Suzanne Goin's Cabbage and Sweet Corn Sauté with Bacon a few years ago (a wonderful recipe...most definitely worth trying if you think you don't like cabbage).  When I first made that recipe, I noticed that a few growers at my old farmers' market had cabbage....but it wasn't particularly abundant.  But at the market I began frequenting last year, many (if not all) of the vendors grow cabbage.  Beautiful Napas, tiny little cone shaped cabbages (perfect for a small household), 

big firm green/white and red cabbages...as well as Savoy. 

This year, I have been trying to change my ways...keeping cabbage on hand right now, while it's fresh locally.  We have been enjoying it in both its raw and cooked form.  Most people are familiar with coleslaw...but that is just the veriest tip of the iceberg when it comes to raw cabbage salads.  Depending on how finely you slice/shred it...and how long you allow it to sit in the dressing prior to serving...it can have a prominent or delicate crunch.  Like coleslaw, cabbage can comprise the majority of a salad...or, it can be just one element...adding texture and interest to other ingredients.  It can be the star of the plate in a big, entrée-style (lunch) or side salad.  And it can also take the form of a garnish (finely shredded and tossed with citrus, herbs, onion...maybe a radish or two...and served as an accompaniment for a piece of grilled or sautéed fish...or perhaps a soft taco or tostada...)

This month a cookbook group that I am a part of on Facebook is cooking through recipes from the Ottolenghi cookbooks.  I haven't had much time this month to try new things in the kitchen, but I took the time to try a raw cabbage salad from the book Plenty.  I noticed the salad because it included not only cabbage (which I happened to have), but also all kinds of things that are available at my farmers' market right now (kohlrabi, alfalfa shoots, dill).  It was very good...tangy and refreshing on a hot day.  With the exception of one minor tweak, I made the recipe exactly as written.  Because I didn't really change it, I wasn't going to post it.  But then I considered the fact that it includes kohlrabi...and I changed my mind.  If you have been wondering what to do with that kohlrabi that appeared in your CSA share, you should definitely give this salad a try. 

In its cooked form, cabbage is good in the aforementioned stews and quick sautés.  But I think I like it best lightly cooked in a slight film of buttered, simmering water.  When cooked in this manner it is soft and tender...but not mushy at all.  Furthermore, it cooks quickly so it doesn't take on the strong "cabbage-y" aroma of long boiled cabbage.  It is in fact mild and sweet when treated this way.

Recently I added a few fresh peas to my cabbage as it cooked...along with some prosciutto and fresh herbs.  Cured pork...in the form of bacon and air-cured hams...is a traditional accompaniment to both cabbage and peas.  Combining them all in the same pan seemed like a no-brainer.  Served with some fresh, wild sock-eye salmon that happens to be in season at the same time as the cabbage and peas, it made a simple, subtle and utterly delicious early summer meal.  Sadly, where I live, peas are going out of season...but hopefully you have been able to freeze a few.  If not, fresh corn, cut from the cob, would make a delicious substitute.  Cabbage is definitely summer food.

Buttered Cabbage with Peas & Prosciutto

250 grams/9 oz. green/white cabbage

2 small spring onions (or scallions), white portions plus some of the green, finely sliced (to make a generous 1/3 cup)

1 1/2 to 2 T. butter, divided

1 T. picked thyme, roughly chopped

1/2 T. chiffonade fresh sage leaves

Water

1 oz. (2 slices) thinly sliced prosciutto, cut cross-wise in 1/4-inch wide ribbons

Zest of 1/2 a small lemon (1 t.)

1/2 c. peas (thawed, if using frozen)

Halve the cabbage through the core.  Cut into manageable wedges (about 1 1/2- to 2-inches wide) to yield the weight that you need.  Return the remainder to the fridge for another use.  Cut the cores out of the wedges.  Slice the wedges cross-wise into 1/4-inch ribbons.  You should have about 200g/7 oz. of sliced cabbage.  Set aside.

Melt a tablespoon of the butter in a medium-sized wide sauté pan (with a lid) set over medium heat.  Add the spring onion along with a pinch of salt and cook 'til tender...about 5 minutes.  Add another 1/2 to 1 tablespoon of butter along with the herbs and a couple tablespoons of water and increase the heat slightly. When the butter is melted and the water is simmering, add the cabbage with a pinch of salt and toss to coat in the butter and onions.  Cover the pan, reduce the heat, and simmer gently until the cabbage is tender but still has texture—maybe 4 or 5 minutes.  Add the peas (if using fresh), prosciutto and zest.  If the pan is dry, add a splash of water.  Cover and continue and simmer until the peas and cabbage are tender (but not mushy)...another 2 to 5 minutes. 

If using frozen peas, wait to add until the cabbage is tender (adding the prosciutto and zest when the cabbage is half cooked). 

Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Serves 2

Notes: 

• This recipe is easily multiplied; simply increase the size of your sauté pan as necessary so that it will accommodate the cabbage when covered. 
• This is delicious with pan-seared wild salmon. Heat a sauté pan (large enough to comfortably hold all of the fish) over medium-high heat. While the pan is heating, season the fish on both sides with salt & pepper. Add a thin film of oil to the pan. When the oil is very hot, add the fish, skinned side up ("service side" down). Cook until golden brown and crisp—about 2 to 3 minutes, regulating the heat as necessary to prevent smoking but at the same time, maintaining an active sizzle. Turn and cook the fish (either on the stove or transferring to the oven), until barely opaque in the center—another 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filets. Give the filets a generous squeeze of lemon juice and serve. 
• I noticed when I linked to my post of Suzanne Goin's Cabbage with Corn and Bacon recipe that these two recipes are actually quite similar. Clearly I have absorbed her recipe into my cooking psyche! I think of this one as a softer, gentler version....and I love the all green flecked with pink...set off and echoed by the pink salmon. 

 Printable Version

Cabbage and Kohlrabi Salad

1 medium kohlrabi (8 to 9 oz.)

1/2 white cabbage (8 to  9 oz.)

1 garlic clove

6 tablespoons lemon juice

6 heaped T. roughly chopped dill

1 cup dried tart cherries (roughly chopped if very large)

grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 c. olive oil

2 cups alfalfa sprouts

salt and pepper to taste

Peel the kohlrabi and cut into thick matchsticks that are about 1/4 inch wide and 2 inches long. Cut the cabbage into 1/4-inch-thick strips.

Using a microplane zester, grate the garlic clove into the lemon juice and let sit for five minutes or so.

Put the cabbage, kohlrabi and lemon juice with garlic, along with all the remaining ingredients except the alfalfa sprouts, in a large mixing bowl. Using your hands, massage everything together for about a minute so the flavors mix and the lemon can soften the cabbage and cherries. Let the salad sit for about 10 minutes.

Add most of the alfalfa sprouts and mix well again with your hands. Taste and adjust the seasoning; you will need a fair amount of salt to counteract the lemon. (If the salad seems well-seasoned and it is still a bit sharp for you taste, give it a small drizzle of honey and toss again.)

Use your hands again to lift the salad out of the mixing bowl and into a serving bowl, leaving most of the juices behind. Garnish with the remaining sprouts and serve at once.  Serves 4 to 6.

(Recipe from Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi)

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A Braided Loaf filled with Dried Fruits & Nuts

I love the dried and candied fruit filled baked goods of the late fall and winter months.  Not only are they delicious and seasonal (fresh fruits having diminished in supply by the time December rolls around), but from Britain's Christmas cake...to Italy's Panettone...to Germany's Stollen (just to name a few), they are part of a rich European tradition of holiday baking.   

Unfortunately, this style of baked good is not very much in favor in the U.S.  I am at a loss as to why this is the case....but nevertheless, it seems to be true.  One of my favorite holiday classes—all about desserts that feature these ingredients—has always been a bit of a hard sell.  This year, that particular class was canceled altogether due to lack of interest.  And yet, any time I sneak a dessert or bread of this style into a class filled with other things, it is often the hit of the class. 

If you count yourself among those who have shied away from these kinds of breads and desserts, today's post is for you.  It is a great introduction to the world of dried fruit-filled yeast breads.  This particular loaf is not nearly as heavy or rich as some of the traditional European loaves.  Additionally, for those who are especially wary of candied fruits (which in the U.S. are awful most of the time), this is made with only dried fruits.  The dough is slightly less sweet and rich than a typical cinnamon roll dough and it bakes into a beautiful braid that is tender and light.   What's not to love?

As it happens this loaf wasn't a part of the class that was canceled. That particular class was mostly a dessert class, and this loaf is definitely not a dessert.  It is a variation of a Peter Reinhart bread that in its original form (filled with dried cranberries and walnuts) was created for a place on the Thanksgiving dinner table.  While I imagine that it is delicious in that role, I think it is best served at breakfast or brunch.  In its "day old" form, it makes fantastic toast.

The flavors of my loaf are patterned after a favorite bread sold at Whole Foods (called a "Harvest" loaf).  That loaf features dried apricots, dried tart cherries and toasted hazelnuts.  I have added Medjool dates to the mix...but any favorite selection of fruits and nuts would work. I think pistachios would be particularly nice for Christmas.  If you don't like nuts—or will be feeding someone with a nut allergy—simply replace them with an equal weight of dried fruit (golden raisins would be nice addition to the other fruits).  

If you have never made a braided loaf before, it is not difficult.  Make sure that your ropes of dough are all the same length and diameter.  

When you form the braid, don't make it too tight.  Pinch the ends well, or the braid will start to come apart at the ends as it proofs and bakes.  

Finally, make sure the loaf is fully proofed, or doubled, before you bake it (it will look swollen and puffy and when lightly pressed with a fingertip, the indentation will remain).  For many breads you can get away with putting them into the oven when they are not yet fully doubled, as the action of the oven will aid in boosting that last little bit of expansion.  In some breads this extra oven spring is desirable, but not in a braid.  Braided loaves that experience a large amount of oven spring look stretched and torn after baking.  The bread will still taste fine if this happens...but it will not be as beautiful.

Once you've tried this bread, you may want to try other dried (and candied) fruit and nut filled baked goods.  If so, there are so many to choose from right here (I really do love them).  You could move on to the Brandied Fruit & Almond Tea Bread...basically a fruit and nut filled pound cake that could be considered a fruit cake "light". 

If your tastes run more to chocolate, there is Deborah Madison's Date, Dried Cherry & Chocolate Torte (basically chocolate fruitcake...).

If you want to sample more of an old world mincemeat-style tart (lightened up a bit for modern American tastes) you could make my Brandied Apple, Raisin & Date Slab Pie

Then, returning to yeast breads, there is my Holiday Wreath Coffee Cake—scented with cardamom and orange and filled with dried cranberries and pistachios.  I make this one every year for our Christmas breakfast....and this one would be a very easy sell among the dried fruit and nut-wary crowd since the fruits and nuts are ground finely prior to coiling them into the dough.

And of course, you can always take basic baked goods and dress them up for the holidays by adding some candied peel and spices...as in my Spiced Cranberry-Orange Coffee Cake...which is just a simple and delicious sour cream coffee cake with additions.

If you can't find good candied peel, it is easy to make.  And it makes a wonderful addition to a holiday sweets platter as well.

Lastly, it would be a most unusual Christmas season at my house if I didn't make at least one batch of my cream scones using candied orange peel for some of the "mix-ins".  My favorite is candied orange peel with dried cranberries and white chocolate.  But candied orange with golden raisins and toasted pecans is pretty great too.... 

   

Dried Fruit & Nut Braided Bread

2 1/4 t. active dry yeast (1 envelope)

55 g. (1/4 c.) warm water

383 g. (3 c.) bread flour, divided

40 g. (3 T.) sugar

1 t. salt

121 g. (1/2 c.) milk

40 g. (3 T.) unsalted butter

2 eggs, room temperature

9 oz. mixed dried fruits (see notes)

3 oz. coarsely chopped, skinned hazelnuts (see notes)

In a large mixing bowl soften the yeast in the warm water.  Place 320 g. (2 1/2 c.) of the bread flour, the sugar and the salt in a small bowl and whisk to combine.  Warm the milk and the butter in a small saucepan just until the butter melts.  If the mixture exceeds 115°, let cool before proceeding. 

Add the warmed milk/butter, the eggs and the dry ingredients to the softened yeast and mix with a wooden spoon or stiff rubber spatula to form a soft dough.  If the dough is unmanageably sticky, add more of the flour to bring it together…but only as much as necessary.  Too much flour will create a stiff dough and will produce a dry loaf of bread.   

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (5 to 7 minutes), incorporating only as much of the remaining flour as is needed to keep the dough from sticking unmanageably to the counter.  After 5 to 7 minutes the dough will feel slightly tacky…but not sticky, and it should feel soft and pliable—not stiff and resistant.  (If the dough is too stiff, knead in small amounts of water until it softens.)  

Add the dried fruits and nuts and gently knead until all of the nuts and fruit are incorporated and evenly distributed.  

Place the dough in a buttered bowl.  Turn the dough to coat with butter

 and cover the bowl with plastic wrap.  Let the dough rise until doubled in bulk (about 2 hours). 

Gently deflate the dough.  (At this point, you may proceed with forming, proofing and baking, or, alternatively, cover again and place in the refrigerator overnight.  In the morning, deflate again before proceeding.)   Divide into three portions of equal weight and roll each portion out into a strand that is about 18 inches long.  Make sure all of the strands are of equal length and diameter.  Braid the three strands together and pinch the ends to form a neat loaf.  Transfer the braid to a parchment lined baking sheet and brush all the exposed surfaces with egg wash.  Cover loosely with lightly buttered or oiled plastic wrap and let rise until fully doubled (it will look swollen and puffy and when lightly pressed with a fingertip, the indentation will remain)—about 1 1/2 hours. 

Carefully brush with a second coat of egg wash.  

Transfer the pan to the middle rack of a preheated 325° oven and bake until the loaf is a deep golden brown, feels very firm, and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom—about 40 minutes (rotate the baking pan from back to front after 20 minutes of baking).  The internal temperature at the center of the loaf should register about 185°. 

Transfer the loaf to a wire rack and let cool for at least an hour before slicing. 

This loaf is delicious as part of a brunch spread.  It makes excellent toast.  It is also good with cheese.   Slightly stale slices would make good French Toast…or a delicious grilled cheese sandwich.  Peter Reinhart makes his bread with dried cranberries and walnuts and serves it as part of his Thanksgiving spread.

Notes:

• You may use any mix of dried fruits that you prefer. I like equal quantities of pitted, chopped Medjool dates, chopped dried apricots and tart cherries. 
• Chopped toasted walnuts, pecans or pistachios would all be delicious, too. 
• You may omit the nuts entirely and replace them with another 3 oz. of dried fruit. 
• The double egg wash in this recipe produces a loaf with a deeply, burnished brown finish. If you would like a loaf that is not so dark, just egg wash once, right before baking. 

(Adapted from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart)

Printable Recipe

Blondies with Dried Tart Cherries, Pistachios & White Chocolate Chunks

I have been asked to prepare bar cookies for a nephew's high school graduation party this year. The request was for simple, familiar, teenage-boy friendly kinds of bars. So, I have been making large quantities of brownies, blondies and mixed berry crumble bars. Lemon bars are still on the "to do" list. Per the request, the blondies I made are simple and typical...a brown-sugary, slightly chewy bar cookie, loaded with chocolate chips. To satisfy my own desire for something a little different, I made a small pan of the same blondies over the weekend, replacing the chocolate chips with white chocolate chunks, pistachios and dried tart cherries.

The basic recipe is a slightly amended version of a blondie that appears in multiple guises in Martha Stewart's Cookies. The main change I made to the basic recipe was that instead of baking the blondies in an 8-inch square or 9-inch round baking pan, I have spread the batter out into a quarter sheet pan (a 13- by 9-inch will work just as well) for a thinner, more "bar cookie"-like look.

I have always liked these cookies, but I really love them in their thinner form.  They still have enough heft and "chewiness" to qualify as a blondie, and they have a very nice, even texture...tender and moist from edge to edge—no raised, hard edges and no rawness in the center. They also slice beautifully and are sturdy enough to travel. Just about perfect.

These cookies are excellent when made in their "plain" form with just chocolate chips. But you can of course load them up with anything you like. I really like this white chocolate-cherry-pistachio version....they are particularly delicious. Those teenage boys have no idea what they are missing.

Blondies with Dried Tart Cherries,

Pistachios & White Chocolate Chunks

190 grams (about 1 2/3 c.) all-purpose flour
1 t. baking powder
3/4 t. salt (scant...see variations)
10 T. (140 grams) unsalted butter, softened
200 grams (1 c.) golden brown sugar
2 eggs
1 t. vanilla
4 oz. white chocolate, chopped (about 2/3 c.)
2/3 c. dried tart cherries (chopped if large)
65 grams (1/2 c.) toasted pistachios, coarsely chopped

Butter a quarter sheet pan (or, you may use a 13- by 9-inch baking pan). Line with parchment. Butter the parchment and flour the pan. Preheat the oven to 350°.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar at medium speed until smooth and beginning to lighten in color—about a minute. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Beat in the vanilla. Add the flour mixture. When almost fully incorporated, add the white chocolate, cherries and pistachios. Mix until well incorporated.

Scrape the patter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface with a rubber spatula. Bake in a 350° oven until golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out mostly clean (a few crumbs are OK)—about 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in the pan. Run a knife around the edge and place a baking sheet over the pan. Flip the blondies out onto the baking sheet. Peel off the parchment and flip the blondies back over onto a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, cut into 24 to 48 bars.


Variations:

• Omit the white chocolate, tart cherries & pistachios. Add 1 1/3 cups semi-sweet chips.  I use a full 3/4 t. table salt with the all chocolate variation.  The original recipe called for 3/4 t. kosher salt (which isn't as strong as table salt...which is what I alway use for baking).
• Use any combination of nuts, dried fruit & chocolate you prefer.

(Recipe adapted from Martha Stewart's Cookies)

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Basmati Pilaf with Dried Tart Cherries & Pistachios



I love grain pilafs. I love their textures...I love their taste possibilities...I love their versatility. They can always be counted on to make an interesting side dish, but more and more, I am enjoying them as the main event. And because many of the things I like to put in my pilafs are pantry staples—grains, nuts, dried fruits, spices—they can be pulled together quickly and easily without too much advance planning.

Typically I don't think of making a meatless entrée pilaf out of rice (possibly because rice is fixed in my mind as a side dish). But recently, when I ran across a recipe for a Chicken, Chickpea and Rice Pilaf at Cookstr, the presence of the chickpeas made me think of a couple of bulgur pilafs that I have posted here—both of which I serve as a main course.  I thought a meatless pilaf in the style of this one would make a good main course too.  And it did.

To make the pilaf, I started with a base of saffron rice. One of the tastiest ways I have ever had saffron rice is with a topping of crispy fried onions. I'm not crazy about frying in general—and certainly not for a weeknight meal (every cook has certain tasks they would rather not do)—so I just incorporated some caramelized onions into the base of a French-style pilaf. It isn't the same, but it tasted very good.

Lightly caramelized onions

Briefly cooking the rice with the onions

Other changes I made to the pilaf were aimed at adding color and a bit of contrasting tartness. With an eye to both of these things, I substituted tangy and dark dried tart cherries for the pale and sweet golden raisins. I added more color by using pistachios instead of almonds.  For a final bit of zip, I sizzled the chickpeas in some olive oil along with a bit of Cayenne.


Serving the pilaf with plain yogurt adds some nice contrast too. If you are not going to serve it with yogurt, you should definitely give the pilaf a squeeze of lemon juice at the end. Even if you are serving it with yogurt, you might still want to add the lemon—it seems to lift and enhance all of the other flavors.

The original pilaf didn't include a roasted vegetable. Because I like chunks of vegetables in my main course pilafs, I added some roasted carrots.

Carrots roasted with cumin and coriander

If you don't like carrots, cubed and roasted winter squash would also be good. And while they have an entirely different flavor profile, I think turnips would be a nice option too (or almost any root vegetable, for that matter).

I do of course understand that many people feel they haven't had dinner if they haven't had meat or fish. If you fall into that category, you can still make this flavorful pilaf. Just serve it as a side—as is, or without the carrots and chickpeas. I think it would be especially nice with lamb...but fish—or the original chicken—would be good too.

Basmati Pilaf with Chickpeas, Dried Tart Cherries & Pistachios

1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal 1/3-inch thick
Salt & Pepper, to taste
olive oil
1/2 t. (heaped) ground cumin
1/2 t. (heaped) coriander

2 T. olive oil
1 medium onion (about 8 oz.), diced
1 fat clove garlic, minced
Salt
1 c. basmati rice
2 c. boiling water
a generous pinch of saffron

1/2 c. dried tart cherries
1 T. olive oil
1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/8 t. Cayenne (or more to taste)
3 T. minced flat-leaf parsley
1/2 c. toasted pistachios, coarsely chopped
Lemon juice, to taste (optional)

Place the carrots in a large bowl. Season to taste with salt & pepper. Add enough olive oil to coat along with the spices and toss to coat. Spread on a baking sheet. Roast in a 425° oven until tender and browned in spots, stirring once—about 25 to 30 minutes. Set the vegetables aside until ready to assemble the pilaf and reduce the oven temperature to 350°.

While the vegetables roast, warm 2 T. olive oil in a medium saucepan with a tight fitting lid over moderate heat. Add the onions along with a pinch of salt and cook until they are tender and beginning to caramelize (20 minutes or so). Add the garlic and cook until fragrant—about a minute.

Add the saffron to the water and keep hot.

Increase the heat under the onions to medium high and add the rice along with a generous pinch of salt. Continue to cook for a 2 minutes or until the rice is well-coated with oil and has begun to turn opaque. Add the water and bring to a full boil. Season with salt, reduce the heat to low, cover and transfer to a 350° oven. Cook for 18 minutes. Remove from the oven and scatter the cherries over the surface of the rice.

Cover and let stand for 5 minutes.

While the rice is resting, warm a tablespoon of oil to a medium sauté pan. Add the chickpeas and cayenne and heat through. Return the roasted vegetables to the oven to heat through.

Transfer the rice and cherries to a large bowl. Add the carrots, chickpeas, pistachios, and parsley. Toss until everything is well combined.

Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. If the pilaf tastes flat, add a squeeze of lemon. Serve accompanied by some plain yogurt. Serves 3 or 4 as an entrée.

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