Savory Beet Greens & Mushroom Quiche...two ways...

This spring has been for me a season of beet greens.  It started when I saw some beautiful beets at the store and suddenly realized I hadn’t had beets in a while and that I was really hungry for them.  These particular beets had beautiful tops…so I saved them and added them to a pasta (or perhaps a grain pilaf…the exact preparation escapes me now).  Then suddenly I had a couple private dinners in a row that included roasted beet salads.  So I had more beet greens—because when you buy nice beets you almost always get the greens too…which basically makes them free.  So I made more pastas and pilafs…and a fantastic soup (with pasta) that I hadn’t had in a while… 

 

And still there were more.  So when I came home from a class with a pastry shell left from the demonstration, I decided to make a beet greens tart.  Greens of all kinds make fantastic fillings for tarts, so a tart of nothing but the greens…shrouded in a custard and enhanced with a little onion and garlic…or bacon or sausage…would have been delicious.  But at the time I happened to have some mushrooms on hand.  I remembered a good pasta I made a year or two ago with mushrooms, greens and bread crumbs.  So I decided to turn that pasta into a tart. 

I hadn’t planned on posting the recipe—there are after all, many, many tart recipes on my blog—but this tart was the thing I decided to make again when I ended up with another windfall of beet greens.  Anytime I like something so much that I make it twice in a short span of time, it’s usually a good indication that I should post the recipe—if for no other reason than I know I will be glad I did when at some point down the road I want to make a well-liked dish again and I can’t find my notes.

Aside from selfish reasons, I thought the post would be instructive.  It is the season of greens at the markets…and people are always looking for ways to use this abundance.  This tart is a great way to do this.  Even if you don’t have beet greens:  You can of course replace the beet greens with spinach or chard…even kale (just remember to blanch kale before adding it to the pan with the onions).

The second time I made the tart I didn't really have enough of the beet greens (on the left)...
so I supplemented with a handful of spinach and a few chard leaves... 
Almost any green would be good in this tart.

But beyond the tart being a great place to use some of your greens, I had another reason to post this recipe.  The glut of beet greens continued until I had another leftover tart shell from a class—a tart shell that was a different shape.  The first tart shell was the large, almost flat, pizza style that I tend to favor (it shows off ingredients to great advantage...plus, it has a higher proportion of crust to filling…which I love).  The second was a traditional shell (baked in a removable bottom, 9-inch tart pan).  I have always told people that these two shells (the 12-inch pizza pan crust and the 9-inch standard crust) held the same amount of filling…but I think this is hard for most people to believe.  (They certainly don’t look like they would hold the same amount of filling.)  Posting this recipe is my chance to demonstrate that this is in fact true.  Both the tarts pictured in the post used exactly the same amount of vegetable filling and custard.  You can make it either way.  The traditional style will appeal to people who really think tarts are all about the filling.  The “pizza style” will appeal to those who—like me—always want more crust.

Before I close I want to make a couple of observations about the ingredients.  The first time I made the tart I used red onion and mature garlic.  When I made it the second time I had spring onions and green garlic in my pantry…so of course I used those!  You should use what you have on hand.  I have given instructions for both.   

And while on the subject of ingredients, I want to mention the rosemary.  I normally don’t make a big deal about the addition of particular herbs, because I think they fall into the category of seasoning to your preferences.  But for this recipe, if you have it—and you like it—you should include it.  It is delicious with both mushrooms and greens…and it really adds to the savory and complex flavor of this tart.  I’m sure the tart would be good without it…but it is exceptional with it.

Finally, you may have noticed in the title of the post that I have called this recipe a “quiche”…yet I have referred to it as a “tart” throughout the post.  I was going to call it a tart in the title…because it is a tart:  It’s baked in a tart pan…and the filling is cradled in a flaky pastry crust.    But it is also a quiche—a specific class of tarts in which the filling that goes into the crust is suspended in an egg custard.  I bring this up only because I was asked this very question in a class recently:  Was I making a tart? Or a quiche?  And, what exactly is it that makes something a tart or a quiche?  I then realized I had been using the words interchangeably as I taught the class…because the thing I was making happened to be both.  But of course this is not always the case.  As far as I know, all quiches are tarts.  But it is not true that all tarts are quiches since all tarts (savory or sweet filling baked in a pastry crust) don’t necessarily include custard.  So now you know the difference (if you didn’t before…).  In any case, whatever you choose to call it, I hope you will find it to be as satisfying and delicious to eat as I have.  And I also hope you will find it to be a useful way to use and enjoy the greens that are flooding the markets right now.

Beet Greens & Mushroom Quiche

Olive oil
1/2 medium red onion, finely diced, or 2 or 3 spring onions, finely sliced or minced
1 clove garlic, minced, or one stall green garlic, finely sliced or minced
A small sprig of rosemary, picked and minced (to make about 1/2 to 3/4 t. minced)
1/8 t. hot pepper flakes
5 oz. (trimmed weight—no stems or ribs) beet greens, Swiss chard or kale, rinsed in several changes of water
8 oz. crimini mushrooms, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 12-inch “pizza-style” tart shell or 1 standard 9-inch tart shell, blind baked (see below)
100 gr/3 1/2 oz. Gruyère cheese, finely grated (about a cup)
2 eggs
1 c. heavy cream
1/3 to 1/2 c. coarse, fresh breadcrumbs, tossed with a teaspoon of melted butter
salt & pepper

Film a wide sauté pan set over moderate heat with olive oil. If you using red onions and mature garlic, add the onions along with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are tender and beginning to become golden at the edges. Add the garlic, rosemary and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant. If using spring onions and green garlic, add the onions and garlic to the pan along with a pinch of salt and cook until tender and translucent. Add the pepper flakes and rosemary and cook until fragrant. The red onion base will probably take about 15 minutes…the spring onion base will take less time—perhaps 5 minutes or so. For both kinds of onions, regulate the heat as necessary to allow the mixtures to sizzle gently, reducing the heat if the onions threaten to scorch. If the pan ever looks dry, drizzle in a bit more oil.

When the onions are cooked, add the greens. If using beet greens or chard, add them a handful at a time, turning with tongs to coat them in the fat and expose them to the heat and adding more as they begin to collapse. If the greens were recently washed, there should be enough water clinging to them to create steam and help them cook…if they were washed ahead (or spun dry) you may need to add a few tablespoons of water to the pan. Cover the pan and cook until the greens are tender. Uncover and continue to cook until any liquid has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside in a warm spot. 

If using kale, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the kale and cook until tender (about 7 minutes). Lift the kale out and spread on a baking sheet to cool. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out the excess water. Add the cooked kale to the onion mixture and cook gently for a few minutes to infuse the greens with the flavor of the onions. Set aside.

While the greens cook, sauté the mushrooms: Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to sauté in batches—don't overcrowd the pan. Heat a sauté pan (non-stick, if you have one) over high heat. Add oil to coat the pan (a tablespoon or so), then add the mushrooms. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mushrooms are browned, tender and any liquid that they have given off has evaporated. If they seem dry at any time as they cook, drizzle in a bit more oil. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and season with salt & pepper. When the greens are cooked, add the mushrooms to the greens. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Place the baked crust on a baking sheet. Scatter about 2/3 of the cheese over the baked crust. Scatter the greens and mushrooms over all. Whisk together the eggs and the cream. Season with salt and pepper—and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg if you like.

Slowly pour the custard over the vegetables, jiggling the pan a bit so the custard will be evenly distributed and will penetrate the vegetables. Be careful not to let the custard flow over the edge.

If there are any low places in the edge of your crust, you will not be able to use it all. Scatter the remaining cheese over the tart, followed by the buttered breadcrumbs. Bake the tart until the custard is set—about 20 minutes for the pizza-style tart, 25 for the traditional (a knife inserted in the center will come out clean). Slide the tart under the broiler to brown slightly if you like. Serves 6 as an entrée (with a salad or vegetable side), 8 to 10 as a light first course with a fluff of lightly dressed greens.

Pâte Brisée

(Short Crust Pastry)

For a 12- to 13-inch “pizza-style” crust

1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour (200g)

1/2 t. salt

11 T. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces (150g)

1/4 to 1/3 c. ice water

For a 9- to 10-inch tart shell

1 1/3 c. all-purpose flour (150g)

3/8 t. salt

8 T. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces (113g)

3 to 4 T. ice water

Combine the flour and the salt in a medium-sized bowl.  Rub the butter into the flour until the butter is in small pea-sized pieces. Drizzle the smaller measure of ice water over the flour/butter mixture.  Using your hands, fluff the mixture until it begins to clump, adding more water if necessary.  Turn the dough out onto a counter and form into a mound.  Using the heel of your hand, gradually push all of the dough away from you in short forward strokes, flattening out the lumps.  Continue until all of the dough is flat.  Using a bench scraper, scrape the dough off the counter, forming it into a single clump as you do.  Form the finished dough into a thick disk.  Chill for at least 30 minutes.

To roll out, let dough warm up for a moment or two.  Butter/spray the a pan and set it aside.  Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a circle that is about 1/8- to 1/6–inch thick and with a diameter 2 to 3 inches larger than that of the pan.  Trim any ragged edges.  Brush off the excess flour and fold the dough circle in half.  Transfer it to the prepared pan.  Unfold the dough and ease it into the pan being careful not to stretch it.  Fold the edges to form a ½-inch rim of a double thickness of dough for the pizza-style crust.  For the traditional tart pan, simply press the dough against the sides of the pan (being sure not to stretch the dough) and cut the dough off flush with the edge of the tart pan.  Chill for at least 30 minutes.

To blind bake, line the pastry with aluminum foil or parchment paper, pressing it into the corners and edges.  Add a layer of pie weights or dried beans.  Bake in a 400° to 425° oven for 20 to 25 minutes.  When the pastry begins to color on the edges and is cooked through, remove the foil and weights and continue baking until the pastry dries out and turns a golden brown (another 5 minutes or so).

Printable Version

Four Cheese Calzone with Kale & Prosciutto

A calzone falls into a category of foods that I like to call blank canvases.....foods that can be used as a foundation for endless variation and improvisation according to the foods that are in season and the contents of your pantry.  Pasta falls into this category....as does pizza, frittata/Spanish tortilla, grain pilaf, short pastry crust, and salad greens...just to name a few. 

Calzones are, after all, very similar to a pizza....the filling is simply enclosed in the folded dough instead of being spread over a flat round of dough.  And of course you can fill it with a wide variety of delicious cooked meats and vegetables, cheeses, etc...just like pizza.  I do occasionally use the idea of the calzone as a blank canvas.  I posted a particularly delicious improvised calzone filled with winter squash, mushrooms and apples a little over a years ago. 

But to be honest, this was a bit unusual.  When I think of a calzone, I usually think of only one type of filling:  a big mass of cheeses—mixed with wilted greens (preferably kale) and bits of prosciutto.  It has always been my intention to post the recipe for this, my "go to" calzone, but for some reason I have never gotten around to it....until today.

I am calling this a "Four Cheese" calzone because it almost always ends up that I make it with four kinds of cheese...but I imagine you could limit yourself to just one...or two.  The ricotta is the main event for this filling.  Make sure you purchase a good quality, whole milk ricotta.  (It should contain nothing but milk, vinegar and salt.  If it seems a bit wet, let it drain in strainer for a half hour or so before you mix it with the other cheeses.)  If I happen to have some goat cheese—or think about it while I'm at the store—I like to include that too.  It has a texture that is similar to the ricotta, but has the advantage of adding a nice tang to the filling.  I also like to add a well-flavored melting cheese...like Fontina or Provolone.  Low Moisture mozzarella is nice too...even though it doesn't pack the flavor punch of those other two.   And finally, I like to round out the flavor by adding just a bit of a hard grating cheese like Parmesan or Pecorino.

As I mentioned, my preferred green is kale.  I particularly like Tuscan kale (a.k.a Lacinato kale...or dinosaur kale...or Cavolo Nero).  Kale has more of a presence—both in texture and flavor—than other greens.  But I have used Chard too, with good results.  I have never used spinach, but I imagine it would work just fine.

I love the sweetness the caramelized red onions add to the filling.  But in the spring I tend to use spring onions.  I don't caramelize these...I just cook them until they are tender.  Thinly slice 3 or 4—depending on their size—and include a quantity of the pale and dark green to equal the volume of the white.  You could also wilt some scallions....or caramelize a yellow onion. 

You can of course vary the cooked vegetable that you add to the cheese filling.  The volume of the cooked kale and onion is about one cup, so it could be replaced with once cup of some other favorite cooked vegetable—sautéed mushrooms, for example.  If you really like cheese, you could omit the vegetables entirely and have an all cheese calzone (use a total of 11 to 12 oz of cheese).  In fact, my recipe is a variation on an all cheese version I found many years ago in Alice Waters' book Chez Panisse Pasta Pizza & Calzone.  It is worth noting that in a cookbook that contains many, many pasta and pizza recipes, there is only one recipe for calzone.  Apparently it is not that uncommon for someone to become attached to one particular version of calzone.

Four Cheese Calzone with Tuscan Kale & Prosciutto

1/2 c. (115 g) warm water (100º-110º)

1 1/8 t. active dry yeast

165 g. (about 1 1/3 c.) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 t. salt

1 T. olive oil

2 T. olive oil

1 medium red onion (about 7 oz.), finely diced

1 fat clove garlic, minced

Pinch of hot pepper flakes

Salt & pepper

1 bunch Tuscan Kale, stems stripped (about 5 oz, trimmed)—rinsed well to remove all grit

3 oz. Whole milk ricotta (1/3 c.)

2 oz. goat cheese, crumbled

2 oz.  Fontina, coarsely shredded

1/2 oz. finely grated Pecorino

1 1/2 oz. (3 thin slices) prosciutto, cut in 1/4-inch strips

Make the dough:  Place the water in a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over and whisk in.  Let sit until the yeast has dissolved.  Place the flour and salt in the food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse to blend.  Add the oil and yeast/water mixture and pulse until the dough is homogenous.  Begin to run the mixture in long pulses until the dough is smooth and elastic—about 15 to 30 seconds total processing time.  If the dough seems wet and sticky, sprinkle in a bit more flour, a tablespoon at a time, pulsing after each addition.  Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and give it a few kneads by hand. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap.  Let the dough rise until it has doubled in size—about 1 hour.  Punch down the dough and turn it onto a lightly floured surface and form into a ball.  Cover with a towel and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes.  The dough is now ready to be formed into calzones.

While the dough is rising, prepare the filling:  Warm 2 T. olive oil in a medium sauté pan set over medium heat.  Add the onion along with a pinch of salt and cook until very tender and lightly caramelized—about 10 to 15 minutes.  Add the garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant.  Remove the pan from the heat.

While the onions cook, cook the kale in a large pot of boiling salted water.  When tender (after about 7 to 10 minutes), scoop the greens out of the water and place them in a colander to allow most of the excess water to drain.  Spread the drained greens on a baking sheet and allow them to cool.  When cool, pick up small handfuls of the greens and squeeze out most of the water.   Roughly chop and add to the pan of cooked onion and garlic.  Toss to combine.  Taste and season with salt & pepper.

In a large bowl combine the cheeses, prosciutto and kale/onion mixture.  Taste and season with salt, pepper & a pinch of nutmeg.

Build the calzone:  On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a large (13- to 14-inch) round.  Transfer the round to a peel that has been dusted with semolina flour.  Place the filling on one side of the round or dough, leaving a half to one inch border at the edge.

Lightly brush the bare edge with a bit of water, fold the other half of the dough over so that the edges meet.  Roll and pinch the seam to form sort of a running crimped edge that is well-sealed.  Slash the top with a sharp knife three or four times.

Slide the calzone onto a preheated stone in a 500° oven.  Bake until well browned and the filling is bubbling through the slashes—about 12 to 15 minutes.  Transfer to a wire rack and brush the surface with olive oil.  Let the calzone rest for a few minutes before serving (so the filling can firm up and so it won't be quite so molten hot when it is served....).

The calzone may be served immediately or cooled and reheated.  To reheat, heat the baking stone in a 350° to 400° oven and place the baked calzone directly on the stone until hot through—5 to 10 minutes. 

Serves 2 to 4.  

Notes & Variations:

• You many use any mixture of cheeses that appeals to you. I think at least 3 to 5 oz. of something soft—like ricotta and/or goat cheese is a good base. A good melting cheese like Fontina, low-moisture Mozzarella or Provolone is also a nice component—but you could also just increase your quantity of ricotta or goat cheese. And then a touch of an aged grating cheese like Parmesan or Pecorino to round out the flavor is good too. Aim for a total of 7 to 8 oz. cheese. 
• You may substitute chard, beet greens or spinach for the kale.  Use about 5 oz. of trimmed greens.  These greens don't have to be blanched, they may simply be added to the cooked onions a handful at a time (you may need to add a bit more oil)--adding more as the previous handful begins to collapse--and then cooking until tender and any water released has evaporated.  The greens should just be beginning to sizzle in the oil.  (If the water evaporates before the greens are tender, simply reduce the heat to very low, cover and continue to cook until the greens are tender.)
• The cooked greens and onions measure about one cup. If you like, you could create another style of "Four Cheese Calzone" by replacing them with the same quantity of another cooked vegetable (sautéed sliced mushrooms, for example). 
• The number of people this calzone will feed will depend on appetites...and the other things being served. I like to serve my calzone with a salad (tossed green...grated carrot or roasted beet salad...etc.). With a salad and our lighter appetites, this serves four. If you have a large appetite...and don't serve a salad (or dessert) this will serve 2. The recipe is easily doubled to make two calzones. 
• If you like, you may make 3 small calzones. Divide the dough into three balls after the first rise. Roll each ball into an 8-inch round. Divide the filling evenly between the three. Form and bake as for the large one. 

Three smaller individual serving calzone.

Printable Version

Ravioli Nudi

With sage-infused browned butter and crispy sage leaves....

If you shop at your local farmers' market...or are a member of a CSA...right about now your refrigerator is filled to overflowing with greens....  Spinach, arugula, young kale, chard... lettuces of all kinds...beet greens...  Just to name a few.    A salad....or a side of braised or wilted greens...are fine uses for this abundance, but the world of greens really does have so much more to offer.  With this in mind, this Spring I offered a class on some of the ways you can use these greens that are filling the market right now.     

Four of the recipes in my class have already appeared here on my blog...Spinach Pasta, Arugula Pesto, Kale and Ham Quiche and Spinach Meatloaf.  I probably could have pulled one more recipe from something I have already posted (a quick count revealed more than 40 such posts....who knew I loved greens so much?), but in the end I settled on a recipe that held some nostalgic appeal for me...and at the same time struck me as something that might be unfamiliar to some: Ravioli Nudi.

Ready for the broiler...

I first encountered Ravioli Nudi when I was just becoming interested in food and cooking.  I was enrolled in a series of cooking classes that featured the food of ten local chefs.  Each class was in a different restaurant kitchen and was taught by the chef.  Twenty-four hour food TV had not yet been invented (at least, not to my knowledge...) and the culture of the celebrity chef was in its infancy....so the classes were small and intimate and very low key.  It was a wonderful experience...one that could probably not be recreated in quite the same way today.

Both series I attended included a class taught by Chef Steve Cole at his restaurant Café Allegro.  Not only did he cook for us in his restaurant kitchen, but during the second series he took us to the Farmers' Market where he introduced us to some of his favorite growers and gave us a quick tutorial on navigating the market.  That day was a first for me...I was totally enamored with the market.  The things I learned about the market that morning have stayed with me for all of my professional life.  Much of what I learned showed up in one of my first blog posts (appropriately called "Navigating the Farmers' Market").  When we returned to the restaurant, one of the things he made for us was a delicious, tender, pillow-y little spinach and ricotta dumpling called Ravioli Nudi.

The name "Ravioli Nudi" comes from the fact that this little dumpling is basically a ravioli of greens and ricotta....without the pasta covering....   It is a "naked" ravioli.  When I worked in the south of France, there was a restaurant in Biot that served the same thing...Ravioli "Nu", in French.  The same dish is sometimes called Spinach & Ricotta Gnocchi (focusing on the fact that it is really just a little dumpling....and rather gnocchi-like).  And I think most commonly of all, it is called Gnudi....which I'm guessing is a name that has evolved from Gnocchi and Nudi.  No matter what you call it, when properly made, it is delicious.

When I began working on my class I pulled my recipe from that long ago class thinking it would be "class ready".  Unfortunately, it was not.  I had not done a great job of taking notes...and frankly didn't have enough knowledge at the time to ask questions that would really help me replicate Chef Cole's results.  It called for "3 lbs spinach – picked and washed".  Today I would know to ask for a net weight of greens.  Spinach varieties vary widely in how ropey or delicate the stems are...and therefore how much weight will remain after the stems are removed.  Since I had promised to teach Ravioli Nudi made with Swiss Chard (instead of spinach), a net weight of greens was what I really needed...not a pre-trim weight. 

Poking around the web to look at other recipes wasn't particularly helpful.  The list of ingredients from recipe to recipe was quite consistent...basically greens (usually spinach or chard), ricotta, parmesan, eggs and flour.  But the ratios of these ingredients to one another were all over the map...and absolutely no one gave a net weight of greens.  Furthermore, there seemed to be a divide between gnudi made with whole eggs and those made with just the yolks.  All of these differences presented me with somewhat of a daunting task.  Quality of gnocchi-like preparations varies widely....often these things are horrid little belly bombs...heavy and doughy...  Chef Cole's ravioli nudi had been the antithesis of this...and I wanted to present something like what I had experienced in his class to my class.    

After some trial and error, I achieved my goal.  As it turns out, the recipe I ended up with looks very much like Cole's as long as you assume a fifty percent trim loss for the greens.  This seems high to me....but I am very happy with my results and would not want to include any more greens.  My recipe uses Swiss Chard...but since I call for a net weight, you can substitute spinach or beet greens...or probably any other green you prefer. (I have discovered that I particularly like gnudi made with beet greens.)

12 oz. (trimmed weight) beet greens...filling a 4 quart bowl...

As always, in the course of researching and testing my recipe, I learned a lot.  Firstly, the greens and the ricotta must be as dry as you are able to make them.  This means the ricotta you use must be of a high quality (preferably one that contains just milk, vinegar and salt) and you will probably have to drain it even further (even if it looks well-drained) by placing it in a cheesecloth-lined sieve and letting it drain overnight.  I found a helpful tip in Judy Rodgers Zuni Café Cookbook for assessing whether or not you need to drain the ricotta:  Place a small spoonful of ricotta on a dry paper towel.  If, after a minute, the towel is wet beyond the perimeter of the spoonful of cheese, then it is too wet and needs to be drained. 

As far as the greens are concerned, "as dry as possible" means not only squeezing them dry a handful at a time (which is sufficient for most other preparations...like spinach pasta...a grain pilaf....or a quiche...), but going a further step and squeezing out even more water by rolling the greens up in a towel and wringing out as much water as you are able.  This process will turn the towel green (or pink, if using red chard or beet greens), but a vigorous rinse in cold water will remove most of the color....and normal washing will probably get the rest. 

The reason I belabor all of this is that the drier the ricotta and the greens are, the less flour that you will need to add to obtain a dough that can be lightly handled and that will hold a shape.  And the less flour you use, the lighter will be your result.  A lot of flour creates the heavy, belly bomb gnudi mentioned earlier.

Another thing I learned while working on the recipe is that I prefer gnudi made with all egg yolks.  This is what Steve Cole's recipe called for, but since I noticed that a lot of recipes used whole eggs, I gave that a try too.  The gnudi made with whole eggs seemed slightly rubbery to me....but they were also more stable.  In the recipe, I direct you to save the whites when you separate the eggs so that you may add a bit of the white back into the dough if you discover that a "tester" gnudi shows a tendency to fall apart in the water during cooking.   

All of the details of this recipe may seem a bit tedious, but if you love dumpling-type preparations, I encourage you to give them a try.  Much of the prep can be done ahead.  The greens may be cooked and dried ahead....and of course the ricotta can be drained overnight.  After these two things are accomplished, the dough comes together very quickly.  The gnudi themselves can be formed several hours ahead.  They can even be frozen.  And since they are at their best when served quite simply, all your effort can be focused on making the gnudi.  Served in a pool of fresh tomato sauce....or a white wine cream sauce (embellished with a few spring vegetables, if you like)...they make a delicious dinner.  And for an elegant first course for a dinner party, a drizzle of sage-infused browned butter...or plain olive oil...and a scattering of Parmesan....is all you need.     

  

Dinner...gnudi in a white wine cream sauce with peas,
 asparagus and mushrooms

Ravioli Nudi        

12 oz. (trimmed weight) Swiss Chard or Beet Greens, or 16 oz. (trimmed weight) spinach (see notes)

8 oz. (a scant cup) well-drained whole milk ricotta (see notes)

1 oz. finely grated Parmesan

3/4 t. kosher salt (or to taste)

1/8 t. nutmeg (or less...to taste)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 large egg yolks (see notes)

2 to 4 T. (15 to 30 g.) all-purpose flour (see notes), plus more for forming

Olive oil

Grated Parmesan

Prepare the greens:  Bring a large pot of water to the boil.  Add the greens and simmer until very tender—depending on the green you are using this will take 5 minutes or so.  Scoop the greens out of the water and place them in a colander to allow most of the excess water to drain.  Spread the drained greens on a baking sheet and allow them to cool.  When cool, pick up small handfuls of the greens and squeeze out most of the water.  Spread the handfuls of greens in a kitchen towel and twist/squeeze the towel to remove as much of the remaining liquid as you are able.  (The towel will be stained green—possibly red, if using red chard—by this operation.  The color will come out with a rinse under cold water and a good wash...but just in case, don't use a good kitchen towel...a flour sack towel is perfect.)  The more liquid you are able to squeeze out, the lighter your gnudi will be.  Scrape the dry greens off of the towel and onto a cutting board and mince finely.  Set aside (refrigerating for longer storage) until ready to use.

Make the dough: Place the drained ricotta in a bowl and beat with rubber spatula to smooth it out.  Add the greens, Parmesan and seasonings and beat until well combined.  Beat in the yolks.  Add 2 T. of the flour and stir just until the flour is absorbed.  If the dough is too soft to form a soft ball that can be handled gently with floured fingers, add another tablespoon or so of flour.  The less flour you add, the lighter your gnudi will be.

Test the dough:  Bring a pan of salted water to a bare simmer.  Form, flour and add one gnudi.  If it falls apart in the water, add a tablespoon or so of the reserved egg white to the dough and test again. 

Form the gnudi:  You may form the gnudi in any number of ways.  Some people pipe them in strips on a floured board and cut them into short "corks"...  others scoop with a small cookie scoop and then form a ball....  I like to use two teaspoons to form a rough quenelle by scooping up a small amount of the dough (10 to 12 grams or so) with one spoon and then passing it back and forth between the two spoons to form a football shape.  

Drop the gnudi as you form them, a few at a time, into a dish of flour.  

Sprinkle the top of the formed gnudi with a bit of flour 

and then gently pick them up and lightly roll in your floured fingers to give a coating of just a dusting of flour.  

Place the formed and dusted gnudi on a pan that has been dusted with semolina (all purpose flour will work in a pinch...but semolina is a better option.) The gnudi may be cooked right away...or held at a cool room temperature for a short while...or refrigerated for several hours.

Cook the gnudi: Bring a large pot of well salted water to a bare simmer (a boil will encourage the gnudi to fall apart/explode in the water).  Add half of the gnudi and give the pot a gentle back and forth shake to make sure the gnudi aren't sticking to the bottom.  Monitor the pot to make sure a gentle simmer is maintained.  The gnudi will begin to bob to the surface.  Begin checking them for doneness a couple of minutes after they float to the top and remain on the surface.  

They are done when they go from feeling squishy to springy to the touch.  Using a mesh skimmer/sieve, lift the cooked gnudi out of the water, transferring them to an oiled baking dish that is large enough to hold all of them in a loose single layer.  Poach the remaining gnudi and add them to the dish.

Serve the gnudi right away...or hold at room temperature for an hour or so.  If serving right away, they may be spooned directly onto a plate of sauce or broiled.  If held for service, it is best to reheat them by broiling them.  To broil, drizzle the gnudi with oil or dot with butter and sprinkle with Parmesan.  Run the pan of gnudi under the broiler until the cheese is lightly browned and bubbling. 

The gnudi may be sauced with a drizzle of browned butter (infused with sage or thyme) or a light butter sauce.  They may also be served in a pool of tomato or cream sauce. 

Recipe makes 32 to 40 gnudi, serving 4 as a light entrée or 6 to 8 as an appetizer. 

To freeze:  Place the pan of formed gnudi (they should be in a pan dusted with semolina and they should not touch one another) in the freezer.  When the gnudi are frozen, wrap tightly with plastic wrap.  When ready to cook, unwrap and set in a cool place (or in the refrigerator) and thaw...this should only take about an hour.  Cook as for fresh within 10 to 14 days.

(Adapted from a recipe by Chef Steve Cole)

Ravioli Nudi Tips & Notes

• You may use any green that you like in this recipe. The amount given is the trimmed weight. You will need to purchase more than this because of trim loss. A standard 1/2 lb. bunch of chard will yield about 6 oz. of greens, so for this recipe you will need 2 bunches. 
• When cooked and squeezed dry, you should have 3 1/2 to 4 oz. of very dry cooked greens...or a scant cup. 

• Spinach (particularly baby spinach) has, in my experience, shrunk more in weight during the cooking process than chard or beet greens.  To obtain the same 3 1/2 to 4 oz. of very dry cooked greens, you will need to start with a pound of trimmed spinach.
• Even good quality ricottas will probably need to be drained. My favorite ricotta (Hautly) appears to be quite dry right out of the container, but when allowed to drain in a cheesecloth overnight (set in a strainer, suspended over a bowl), I found that about 10 percent of the weight of the cheese was whey...for 8 oz., this is a couple tablespoons of liquid—which is a significant amount in this recipe. You will need 8 oz. of drained ricotta for the gnudi. 
• In general, 8 oz. of ricotta requires 40 to 50 grams of egg to bind it for successful poaching. One whole egg weighs 50 grams and two yolks weigh 40 grams. You may use a whole egg instead of two yolks in this recipe, but I find the resulting dumpling to be much lighter when made with all yolks. Because using yolks will give you slightly less egg than a whole egg, when you separate the eggs, save your whites—you might need them. After you have made your dough, cook a tester before forming them all. If it seems to want to break apart in the water, you can add a small amount of the whites back in to the dough. If you double the recipe, consider adding an extra yolk (5 all day...5 yolks equal the weight of 2 whole eggs). 
• The less flour you use, the lighter your gnudi will be. Start with 2 T. (15 grams). If the dough is still too soft to handle, add another one or two tablespoons. 

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Beans & Greens in Broth with Italian Sausage & Orecchiette

Sometimes necessity produces meals that are merely edible.  These meals might be filling and nourishing, but in the end, they are (mercifully) not terribly memorable.  On the other hand, there are those—hopefully more frequent—occasions when the odds and ends of a pantry come together in such a way that a new favorite is born.  Such was the case for me when I recently found myself with a large quantity of beet greens in my produce bin. 

These particular beet greens were especially beautiful. To me this seemed unusual for this time of year—I noticed them when I purchased the beets (which also happened to be pretty nice).  Since the greens were so lovely, I was determined to use them before they lost their freshness.  With this in mind, I gave them a prominent place in my produce drawer where they would announce their presence to me every time I opened the drawer.  I am pleased to report that it worked. 

When I finally used them, I combined them with some Cannellini beans and Italian Sausage in a simple broth-based dish.  The dish was light—but wholly satisfying—and it was entirely composed of things I happened to have on hand.  I only used a small handful of beans—mostly because that was all that was left in the bottom of the bag, but also because the dish I had in my mind was more broth-y than bean soup-like.   The Italian Sausage is something I always keep in my freezer…and it is delicious with beans and greens.  Finally—in order to create a dish with a bit more substance—to the greens, beans and sausage, I added some orecchiette pasta (just a small amount…I wasn’t trying to make a “pasta” dish). 

Instead of browning the sausage links and dicing or slicing them….or crumbling the sausage up and browning it….I decided to form the sausage meat into tiny little balls and drop these into the simmering broth at the very end of the cooking time.  The sausage remains soft, juicy and tender this way, but best of all, the little balls gave the humble bowl of beans and greens a whimsical look and an out of the ordinary air….far beyond the amount of work required to make them.  

To form them, simply dampen your hands, pinch off a small piece of the sausage meat (casings removed if you purchase links) and then with slightly damp palms, roll the bit of sausage into a ball.  Remember to keep them small…a half pound of sausage should yield about 64.  When they are this small, they will cook quickly, match the size of the cannellini beans and nestle neatly into the cup shaped orecchiette.

If you have homemade stock in your freezer, this dish would be a great place to use some.  The broth figures prominently in the flavor of the final dish, and while I am not opposed to using good canned broths, there are times when using a nice homemade stock is worth it.  I think this is one of those times.  The bean cooking liquid too adds a lot of flavor to this dish…flavor you will miss if you use canned beans.  So, if you can, plan ahead and soak the beans overnight….or quick soak them as I describe another “beans and greens” dish post.  I’m sure the final dish will taste fine if made with canned beans and canned broth….but it will most likely lack the special quality of a dish made with homemade broth and dried beans.

As I mentioned at the first, this dish came about because of the beet greens I already had on hand.  Normally, beet greens are not something I purchase….I only have them if I have had a need for some beets.  Since I am far more likely to purchase Swiss Chard, I made this dish a second time with Swiss Chard.  I am happy to report that it is delicious with the chard.  

I think it is better with the beet greens—they seem to have more substance than the chard and also a bit more flavor—but still, it was very good…definitely worth making.  In fact, I imagine you could make this dish with any green you liked, as long as you cook them in a way (and for a length of time) that is appropriate for your chosen green.  As for me though, I think I will tuck this recipe away as one of my favorite ways to use beet greens.  I may even make a point of finding a reason to purchase beets whenever I happen to see a few bunches with especially fine greens…just so I will be able to have this dish.  

  

Beans & Greens in Broth with Italian Sausage & Orecchiette

1/3 lb. (a scant cup) Cannellini beans), soaked overnight, or quick soaked

Olive oil

4 to 6 cloves of garlic, peeled

One or two sprigs of rosemary

Salt

1 red onion, (about 8 oz.), trimmed, peeled and finely diced

Pinch of hot pepper flakes, to taste

2/3 lb. of trimmed greens (no stems or ribs)—from about 3 bunches of beets or two bunches of Swiss Chard—cut into fat ribbons (a wide chiffonade), and rinsed in several changes of water

About 2 2/3 cups rich chicken stock—more or less, depending on how brothy you want the final dish to be

8 oz. Italian Sausage—sweet or hot, as you prefer—casings removed, if necessary and the meat formed into tiny little meatballs (you should get about 60 to 64)

8 oz. Orecchiette pasta

Freshly grated Parmesan

Ingredients for half a recipe

Drain and rinse the beans and place in a small sauce pan.  Add enough cold water to cover by a couple of inches.  Add a couple of cloves of garlic and a sprig or two of rosemary.  

Bring to a boil and skim off any foam that comes to the surface.  Add a generous drizzle of olive oil, reduce the heat.  Maintain a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beans are very tender…about an hour to an hour and a half.  When the beans are half cooked, season to taste with salt.   Add hot water to the pan as necessary to maintain enough liquid to cover the beans by a half inch to an inch.   

When the beans are cooked, remove the garlic cloves and the rosemary.  Set the beans aside (leave them in the cooking liquid) until ready to add them to the final dish.  You may cook the beans a day or so ahead if you like.  Cool and store the beans in their cooking liquid.  

Warm about 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, wide sauté pan with straight sides or a Dutch oven set over medium heat.  Add the red onion, along with a pinch of salt, and sweat until very tender and  beginning to caramelize, reducing the heat if the onions begin to color before they are tender—about 10 to 15 minutes.  While the onions cook, mince two or three cloves of garlic.  When the onions are ready, add the garlic and pepper flakes and continue to cook until fragrant…a minute or two.  Add the greens to the pan (along with any water clinging to them) a handful at a time, turning with tongs to coat in the oil, and adding another handful as the previous one begins to collapse.  Season with salt (be careful—the sausage will be salty and the greens will continue to collapse) and continue to cook until the greens are just tender.

While the greens cook, bring a large pot of water to the boil.  Salt the water generously (about a teaspoon per quart).  Drop the orecchiette into the boiling salted water and cook until al dente.  Drain, toss with a bit of olive oil and set aside in a warm spot. 

When the greens are tender, add the chicken stock along with the beans and their cooking liquid.  Bring the broth to a simmer.  Add the meatballs to the simmering liquid. Continue to simmer until the meatballs are just cooked through…about five to seven minutes (cut one open to make sure it is cooked through).  Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning.

Divide the warm pasta among warmed shallow soup bowls.  Divide the beans, greens, sausage and broth among the bowls.  Drizzle with olive oil if you like and top with freshly grated parmesan.  Serve immediately….with crusty bread, biscuits or cornbread.

Serves 4 to 6, depending on appetites.

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