Orecchiette with Broccoli, Chickpeas & Green Olives

Over the course of the past few years, canned chickpeas have become one of my favorite pantry staples. When we were encouraged to stock up a bit on supplies in March of 2020, canned chickpeas were on my list. But I was surprised by how I came to rely on them. They are nutritious…easy to use…and at home in a wide range of cuisines. They also take well to all kinds of cooking methods: they can be pureed, stewed, roasted, or sautéed. I add them to salads, grain pilafs/bowls, soups and stews, vegetable sauté/ragouts and pastas. If I use the last can, I immediately add them to my grocery list.

Like most beans, chickpeas are a bit bland on their own, so they pair well with strong flavors. I particularly love them with bitter things--like brassicas (like cauliflower, kale and broccoli), eggplant and tahini. They are also wonderful with tangy things—like tomatoes, capers and lemon…and salty things—like olives, Feta & Pecorino.

The pasta I’m sharing today features chickpeas and broccoli…with an exuberant mix of strong flavors: sweet caramelized red onion, aromatic and pungent rosemary and garlic, spicy hot pepper flakes, tangy green olives and salty pecorino. I have given the amounts that I use for the aromatic, spicy and tangy elements…but you should feel free to use a heavier hand, always remembering to keep the flavors in balance. The overall effect should be lively and flavorful…just the kind of pasta to warm you during the depths of winter.

The recipe is for just one portion…because these days, my cooking at home is almost always for just one. (As an aside—if you are interested in reading more about how I go about cooking in my small household, I encourage you to consider subscribing to my monthly newsletter: Notes from For Love of the Table.) If you are cooking for more than one, the recipe is easily multiplied to feed as many as you like.

When cooking more than one serving, you will obviously need a larger pan…but the direction given in the recipe will still apply: “choose a pan that will accommodate your vegetables in a snug single layer.” And as far as the cooking of the pasta is concerned, choose a pot that will allow the noodles to move freely in the water as they cook.

You’ll notice that a serving for one only uses a quarter of the can of chickpeas. Drained and rinsed, the rest of the can will keep just fine in an airtight container in the fridge. For longer storage, they can be frozen. They can be easily thawed by placing them in the fridge…or, if you’re in a hurry, by placing them in a sieve and running them under the tap. There is almost always a partial can of chickpeas in my freezer.

Orecchiette with Broccoli, Chickpeas & Castelvetrano Olives

75 to 80 g. (a scant 3 oz.) broccoli crowns
2 T. olive oil, divided
1/4 of a medium red onion (2 1/2 oz.), finely diced (about 1/2 cup)
Salt
1/2 t. minced fresh rosemary (see notes)
1/8 t. hot pepper flakes (see notes)
1 small clove of garlic, minced (see notes)
1/4 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed (65 g.)
4 or 5 pitted Castelvetrano olives, quartered
75 g (mounded 3/4 c.) orecchiette
1/2 oz. coarsely grated Pecorino

Prepare the broccoli: Trim the florets away from the stems and cut into uniform, small (3/4- to 1-inch) florets. Trim the tough end off of the stalk (you should only need to trim away about a quarter inch or so—because you are using "crowns" the stalk portion should be almost entirely usable). Cut the trimmed stalks into rough 1/4-inch by 1-inch sticks (or just roughly chop).

In a small sauté pan (large enough to hold all the sauce ingredients) set over moderate heat, warm a 2 to 3 t. of the olive oil. Add the onion along with a pinch of salt (be careful with the added salt in this recipe…the olives and Pecorino are salty…and you will be cooking the broccoli in salty water). When the onion is sizzling nicely, reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook until the onion is soft and translucent, adding more oil as necessary if the pan seems dry—about 10 minutes. Uncover the pan, increase the heat a bit and cook until the onion has shrunk and is beginning to caramelize around the edges—another 5 minutes or so. If the onions seem dry as they cook, drizzle in a bit more of the olive oil.

When the onions are cooked as directed, add the rosemary, garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant. Drizzle in a little more oil and add the chickpeas, cooking until they begin to sizzle in the onions/oil. Remove from the heat and fold in the olives. Set aside in a warm place.

While the onions cook, bring a medium sized saucepan of well salted water (about a teaspoon per quart) to a boil. When the onions have about five minutes left to cook, add the broccoli stems. Boil for three minutes. Add the florets and continue to boil until the florets are tender—about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Lift out the broccoli (using a bowl sieve), shaking off the excess water as you do, and add to the pan with the chickpeas and onions.

Bring the water the broccoli was cooked in back to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente (8 minutes or so…depending on the brand). Scoop out and reserve a few tablespoons of the pasta water. Drain the pasta. Return the pasta to the pan it was cooked in and scrape in the broccoli chickpea mixture. Stir until everything is evenly distributed. Add a little past water if the pasta seems dry. Fold in the remaining olive oil (plus more if you like). Transfer to a plate and top with the Pecorino. Serves 1.

Notes:

• This recipe can obviously be multiplied to serve more than one. Simply choose a pan wide enough to hold all the ingredients in a snug, shallow (an inch?) layer.
• 75 grams of pasta is a sixth of a pound. If you want more pasta with your sauce, simply cook a little more.
• If your sauté pan is large enough, you may simply add the drained pasta to the sauté pan to toss it with the sauce. (My pan isn’t quite large enough).
• This pasta should be assertive: salty, spicy and aromatic. Feel free to use heaped measures of the rosemary, garlic and hot pepper flakes. I love olives, so I use at least 5 when I make this dish.
• Cauliflower would make a great substitution for all or part of the broccoli.

Printable Version

Chopped Broccoli Salad

In my last post I mentioned how much I like chopped broccoli salads.  I realized when I published the post that I didn’t have any examples of that kind of salad on my blog.  There is a chopped raw cauliflower salad...a grated carrot salad…and a couple of slaws…but nothing that features broccoli.  I thought I would fix that omission today.

The salad I’m sharing was inspired by a rather old-fashioned preparation that I ran across on The Modern Proper.  Their salad featured raw broccoli florets tossed with loads of bacon, sunflower seeds and raisins…all doused in a tangy mayonnaise based dressing.  The first time I made it I followed the recipe exactly except for one thing.  As mentioned in my previous post, the task of chomping through large florets of raw broccoli is something I prefer to leave to rabbits…or horses….   Cutting medium florets into rough thin slices, and the stems into a similarly rough julienne, creates a vegetable that is much easier for humans to chew…and more importantly gives a much better ratio of dressing to broccoli with each bite. 

I was attracted to the salad because it has a retro feel that places it in the realm of what is often meant by the phrase “comfort food.”  I wrote a post several years ago about a kale salad that featured the flavors of my favorite salad bar concoction from my college days: greens with blue cheese dressing, sunflower seeds, and raisins.  If you swap out the kale for broccoli…and the blue cheese for bacon…you basically have that same set of flavors that seems to hit all my preferred buttons. 

And I liked the salad.  But it struck me as a bit rich.  I shelved it, thinking I might make it occasionally, but not that often.  Then recently when I was rummaging through my fridge for something to turn into a salad to go with my dinner I ran across some broccoli.  For some reason I thought of that particular broccoli salad.  The rest of my dinner was almost ready so I didn’t want to take the time to cook bacon.  It seemed to me the salad would be good without the bacon, so I tried it.  And I loved it.  It was the bacon that had made it seem too rich for my taste that first time. And since the “salty” component (required, I think, to “wake up” brassicas) is amply covered by the salty roasted sunflower seeds and mayonnaise, the bacon really isn’t necessary.

I should apologize for two posts in a row that feature the same vegetable.  But the reality of cooking during a pandemic appears to be a lot of repetition.  This can of course be a good way to explore ways to use familiar ingredients in unfamiliar ways.  So if you eat a lot of broccoli…but have never tried it raw, chopped and tossed with a tasty dressing, you should definitely give this salad a try. 

Chopped Broccoli Salad with Sunflower Seeds & Golden Raisins

Dressing:

3/4 c. (5 1/2 oz/155 g.) mayonnaise

4 t. (1 oz.) honey

2 T. white balsamic or apple cider vinegar (can add another teaspoon if you like an extra tangy dressing)

1/2 t. kosher salt

Pinch of cayenne, optional

Salad:

1/4 c. finely minced shallot or white of spring onion

1 lb. trimmed broccoli crowns

1/2 to 2/3 c. roasted and salted sunflower seeds (I love sunflower seeds, so I use 2/3 c.)

1/2 c. golden raisins, roughly chopped (or not—your preference)

Place the dressing ingredients in a bowl and whisk to combine.  Taste and correct the balance and seasoning.  I like my dressing pretty tangy, so I usually add more vinegar…maybe 1/2 to 1 teaspoon.  Set aside.

Rinse the shallot (or onions) under cold running water or soak in a small bowl of ice water for a few minutes.  Drain well.

Trim the broccoli florets away from the stems.  Slice the florets thinly.  You will have little bits and larger pieces.  This is the goal.  Cut the stems into 1- to 1 1/2-inch lengths.  Slice the lengths thinly (rough 1/8^th inch thick).  Cut the slices into sticks (a julienne).  Place the chopped broccoli in a large bowl.  Add the shallot, sunflower seeds, and raisins.  Pour the dressing over and toss until the broccoli is well-coated with the dressing.  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and vinegar. 

The salad can be served right away, but I like it best if it is chilled at least a half hour.  It is still delicious the next day, too.

Serves four to six as a side dish. 

Printable Version

Changing up my Broccoli Routine…with a Pancake

Most people who cook regularly know that broccoli has a relatively short shelf life.  If you get it from a local grower (soon after harvesting)…or happen to get an unusually fresh head at the grocery store…you might be able to keep it for a week before it starts to turn yellow.  But that’s pretty unusual.  Most of the time it needs to be used up fairly quickly.

I’ve been thinking about this kind of thing as I have begun to adjust my cooking routine to accommodate food for one.  In general, cooking for one starts with smart shopping.  Whenever possible you purchase produce in smaller/one serving quantities.  When that isn’t possible, spreading out the timing and manner of use is the way to keep yourself from feeling like you’re having the same thing every night.  So, for things like root vegetables (or winter squash) that keep well, it is an easy thing to use a small amount of the whole one night and then a few nights later use some more in a different way…and then, if there is still some left, make something else a few nights later.  Unfortunately, things that are not that shelf stable (broccoli…)—AND that generally can’t be purchased in smaller quantities (broccoli…)—present a challenge.

Because I cook for a living—and I love to cook—I have seen this as a challenge that is well within my comfort zone.  It is also beneficial in that it is forcing me to get out of a few of my more well-worn cooking ruts. 

Rigatoni with Broccoli Cooked Two Ways for one with the first of a recent large head of broccoli...

The first thing I tend to make with a head (or crown) of broccoli is of course pasta.  I have two or three favorite recipes that I could happily eat one or the other of every time I purchase broccoli (even if that happens to mean every week).  When I was cooking for two I would take a head of broccoli, make enough pasta for two (plus a bit extra so there would be a little something leftover for someone’s lunch) and if there was any broccoli left after the pasta I would add it to a salad…or grain pilaf…or just use it for a simple vegetable side.  But a couple of weeks ago when I was on my second head of broccoli (maybe I should have purchased something other than broccoli the second time around…but it looked good when I was at the store…) and had made all my usual suspects, I knew I was going to have to come up with some new ideas.   

While poking around on line I had seen a recipe for a large root vegetable pancake for one that I was considering making with some carrots I had on hand.  But of course the carrots will keep and I had broccoli burning a hole in my produce bin.…  But the pancake made me think of the chard fritters I posted last summer.  It occurred to me that broccoli would make a nice fritter too…and that I could easily make the fritter batter into one large pancake.

                                                                                         

For the chard fritters, the chard is blanched and squeezed out.  Since blanching broccoli would introduce too much water (you can’t squeeze it out) and make for a gummy pancake, I cooked the grated stems and chopped florets in a little bit of olive oil in a sauté pan instead.  



This softens the broccoli without turning it to mush.  I then folded the cooked broccoli…along with a bit of julienned prosciutto…into a thick egg-rich (for loft), ricotta-based batter.   It made just enough to fill a 6-inch non-stick skillet with a half inch (or so) layer of the batter.  But you could of course make small pancakes (as in the chard fritter recipe), too.  And I should also point out, you can multiply this recipe to make pancakes for any number of diners (just keep them in a low oven while you cook them all).

I served the pancake with a blob of labneh (but thick/Greek yogurt would be fine if that’s what you have) and a roasted beet and arugula salad.  I think any tangy vegetable salad or relish (grated carrot, summer tomato, etc) would be good.

The broccoli pancake was a fantastic way to use the last of my broccoli.  It was light—but had plenty of substance and filled me up.  Best of all, it was delicious.  In fact, I liked my pancake so much I went out and bought another head of broccoli…   True story….

Savory Broccoli Pancake

For each large pancake you will need:

4 oz. trimmed broccoli (florets and stems separated)
Salt
1 to 1 1/2 T. olive oil
1 large egg
1 very small clove of garlic, smashed to a purée with a pinch of salt of finely grated using a microplaner
62 g/1/4 c. whole milk ricotta
30 g/2 T. whole milk
20 g/2 thin slices prosciutto, cut crosswise into rough quarter inch strips
20 g/about 3 T. all purpose flour
1/2 t. baking powder
Olive oil for frying
1 t. (or more) butter
Labneh or thick yogurt

Using the large holes of a box grater (or similar) grate the broccoli stems.  Roughly chop the florets, medium fine.  

Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a small sauté pan set over medium to medium-high heat.  Add all of the broccoli along with good pinch of salt and let it sizzle, stirring occasionally until it has cooked down a bit and is just tender—four or five minutes.  If it seems dry at any point, add the remaining half tablespoon of olive oil.  Set aside to cool.

Crack the egg into a bowl and whisk to break up.  Add the garlic, ricotta and milk and whisk until smooth.  Fold in the broccoli and prosciutto.  Combine the flour and baking powder and fold in.  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt. 

Heat a 6-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Film the pan with olive oil and add a teaspoon or so of butter.  When the butter melts and the foam subsides, scrape in the batter and use a spatula to spread it out into an even layer (it should be about a half inch thick).  

Regulate the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle sizzle, but don’t allow the pancake to scorch.  When set on the first side (after about 3 minutes), simultaneously tilt the pan and slide a pancake turner/spatula under the pancake.  Carefully turn the pancake over and continue to cook until the pancake is cooked through…another three minutes.  If multiplying the recipe, transfer the pancakes to a platter or baking dish as you make them, keeping them in a warm oven while you finish the remaining pancakes. 

Serve warm with a dollop of labneh/thick yogurt and a salad of spicy greens and/or vegetables. 

Printable Version

Bucatini with Cauliflower, Broccoli, Pancetta, Pine Nuts & Currants

While seeking out recipes for an upcoming class, a pasta with what to me was an unusual combination of broccoli, cauliflower, pancetta, pine nuts and raisins (!) caught my eye.  I am always on the lookout for pastas that incorporate seasonal vegetables—particularly those that include combinations of vegetables.  Having pastas like this in my repertoire helps me to use up the inevitable mish mosh of odds and ends of different vegetables that can accumulate in a household of one or two.

But I have quite a few pastas in my “go to” recipe file that include broccoli and cauliflower.  I was mostly intrigued by this recipe because of the inclusion of raisins—something that I often put in a salad...or grain pilaf…with cauliflower or broccoli, but not something I think I have ever put in a pasta with them. 

As it turns out, the combination of raisins (or currants) and pine nuts is a hallmark of classic Sicilian cooking.  Particularly when paired with something salty (like pancetta, anchovies, capers, etc.) they make for an interesting interplay of sweetness in all kinds of savory dishes.  (Other flavor elements that frequently appear—and add to the complexity of flavor—with these two include fennel, orange zest, hot pepper flakes, garlic, rosemary, parsley and saffron.)

Of course, it makes sense that slightly bitter vegetables like broccoli and cauliflower would be enhanced by this combination of pine nuts and raisins.  But as I discovered, they should be incorporated with a light hand—truly as an accent and not a main ingredient.  That first recipe that caught my eye was completely out of balance.  I suspected this was the case as I looked at the list of ingredients, but forged ahead anyway because I trusted the chef who wrote the book.  All I can say is that the half cup of raisins called for (in a recipe for 3/4 of a pound of pasta) was overwhelming.  I added more pancetta than the recipe called for…and it still wasn’t enough to balance the sweetness of the raisins.

But I liked the idea so much that I persisted.  I found a much more balanced recipe for this combination of ingredients in Janet Fletcher’s Four Seasons Pasta (a book worth owning if you love pasta) and used it to correct the recipe that originally caught my eye.  The final recipe is filled with lively flavors and is very satisfying…and a nice change from some of my old broccoli and cauliflower pasta standbys.   

Bucatini with Cauliflower, Broccoli, Pancetta, Pine Nuts & Currants

 

3/4 lb. large cauliflower florets (see notes)

1/2 lb. large broccoli florets (see notes)

3 T. currants

2 to 2 1/2 oz. pancetta, minced

2 to 3 T. Olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced  (1 t.)

1 t. minced rosemary

1/4 t. hot pepper flakes (or more to taste)

1 lb. bucatini (or gemelli…or orecchiette)

2 T. unsalted butter (optional)

3 T. toasted pine nuts

2 to 3 T. minced flat leaf parsley

1/2 to 2/3 c. toasted coarse breadcrumbs (see notes)

Ingredients for pasta for one (1/5 of the recipe)

Bring a large (6 to 8 qt) pot of water to the boil.  Salt well.  Add the cauliflower and cook until just tender to the tip of a knife (you want it to be soft, but not mushy)—about 5 minutes.  Lift out and spread on a towel.  While the cauliflower cooks, cut any thick stems away from the florets of the broccoli.  Drop these stems in the same water that you used to cook the cauliflower.  After three minutes add the florets.  Continue to cook until the broccoli is just tender (same texture as the cauliflower).  Lift the broccoli out of the pan and add it to the towel with the cauliflower.  When the vegetables are cool enough to handle, transfer to a cutting board and roughly chop.  You should have a rough mixture of small and medium pieces of cauliflower and broccoli. 

While the vegetables cook, make the sauce.  Place the currants in small ramekin or custard cup and add enough boiling water so that the currants are just covered with water.  (You can just ladle in some of the vegetable cooking water if you like.)  Set aside.

Place 2 T. of olive oil and the pancetta in a large sauté pan set over medium low heat.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is rendered, beginning to crisp and is turning golden brown.  

Add the garlic, rosemary and hot pepper flakes and cook briefly until fragrant.  Remove from the heat and add the currants along with their soaking liquid.  Stir and scrape to release any caramelized bits of pancetta from the bottom of the pan.  Set aside in a warm spot while you cook the pasta.

Cook the past in the same water that you used to cook the vegetables.  About 3 or 4 minutes before the pasta is done cooking, return the pan with the pancetta and seasonings to moderate heat and bring to a simmer.  Add the cauliflower and broccoli and toss/stir to coat the vegetables with the flavorings.  If the pan seems dry, add a small ladle of pasta cooking water to the pan…you definitely don’t want the vegetables to be soupy or soggy, but neither do you want the pan to be so dry that the pancetta/garlic mix is burning or without the fluid means to coat the vegetables.  When the vegetables are hot through, reduce the heat to the lowest setting to keep the “sauce” warm while the pasta finishes cooking.

When the pasta is al dente, drain well, reserving some of the pasta water.  Add the pasta to the pan with the sauce.  If the sauté pan is not large enough to hold the sauce and pasta, return the pasta to the pot it was cooked in and scrape in the sauce.  (Add a splash of pasta water to the sauté pan and swirl it around to get all of the sauce and add it to the pot).  Add the butter (if using), the pine nuts and parsley and toss/stir until the butter is melted and the noodles are coated with a light fluid sauce and all the flavorful bits.  If the pasta seems dry or tight, add some of the pasta water (again, just enough to help the flavorings coat everything in a light fluid sauce—the liquid shouldn’t be pooling in the pan).   If you like, add a good drizzle of olive oil.  Toss again.  Taste and correct the seasoning.  Divide the pasta among 4 to 6 plates and scatter the toasted breadcrumbs generously over each serving.   Drizzle with more olive oil and serve.

Serves 4 to 6.

Notes:

• This dish can be made with all cauliflower or all broccoli…or some of each in proportions that please you. You will need 1 1/4 lb. combined weight of the two. I prefer a slightly larger quantity of cauliflower (which is why I have called for 3/4 lb of cauliflower and only 1/2 lb. of broccoli).
• Leave the cauliflower in very large florets (about 1 1/2 to 2 inches across) so they will cook uniformly without becoming mushy. 
• The recipe directs you to cut the broccoli stems away from the florets because the florets will cook very quickly and the stems will take longer. Adding the florets for just a minute or two—after the stems have been cooking for a few moments—will prevent them from becoming soggy.
• To make toasted breadcrumbs, cut the crusts off of some day old/slightly stale bread (choose a substantial loaf of some kind—like French farmhouse…or a good baguette) and process in the food processor to form coarse crumbs. Spread the crumbs in a small baking dish and drizzle with a little olive oil. Place in a 375° to 400° oven and bake, stirring occasionally, until golden brown—about 5 to 10 minutes. Toasted breadcrumbs may be frozen. To use, just scoop out what you need and set in a warm place to thaw (or re-toast briefly in a hot oven).

Printable Version

Farro with Broccoli & Green Olives

Somehow I found myself with a bit of a glut of local broccoli earlier this week.  Things like this happen during the growing season...with corn, summer squash, tomatoes, etc...so it's always nice to have a recipe or two to turn to that will use up masses of these seasonal super-producers.  I don't know about you, but I want to fully enjoy them while they are abundant, fresh and delicious.  The farro pilaf I'm posting today is a perfect way to do just that.  Even if you don't happen to have  a lot of broccoli on hand, this pilaf is so good it makes a great excuse to stock up next time you're at the store or the farmers' market. 

As the dinner hour approached on Monday, I knew I wanted to use up my broccoli.  I was leaning toward the broccoli salad that I posted last spring since I was pretty sure I had all of the ingredients on hand.  As it turned out I didn't, but even so it wasn't really what I was in the mood for.  I was feeling hungrier than usual and a salad just wasn't going to cut it.  I thought about pasta (I always think about pasta), but finally decided I wanted a big bowl of farro instead. 

I had no intention of posting this recipe—in fact, I wasn't even sure exactly what the final dish was going to look like until I finished making it.  And, as is sometimes the case, it was so tasty and satisfying I wanted to share it.  For this reason I don't have any in process pictures to share.  But I have posted enough pilaf/grain salad recipes that any questions about the process can probably be answered by taking a peek at one or two of those.

This pilaf has very few ingredients—it is in fact essentially the same list of ingredients needed to make the aforementioned broccoli salad.  In addition to the farro it includes chickpeas, broccoli, spring onions, olives, and arugula.  I mentioned that I didn't really have everything I needed to make that salad.  When I finally got around to looking at what I did have on hand, I discovered that I only had a small handful of arugula left...and very uncharacteristically for me, I was all out of black olives.  Since I often use arugula as an herb in the spring (where one might use basil in the summer), I decided to coarsely chop what I did have and add it to the pilaf.  Instead of the black olives, I used some delicious garlic-marinated green olives (probably my favorite item on the Whole Foods olive bar—unfortunately I have no idea what variety of olive they are).  At the last minute, I decided the pilaf needed a little sweetness, so I added a handful of golden raisins.  They were just the right touch—not only adding that needed sweetness but interesting texture as well. 

I expected that the pilaf would need some lemon to finish, but it didn't.  The olives were so briny and tangy, no lemon was necessary.  If your olives don't have enough punch, you should have some lemon at the ready.  If you happen to have some preserved lemon, a few pieces—cut in a fine julienne...or minced—would add the right note.  Garlic too (finely minced), would be a good addition if your olives are milder than mine were. 

The pilaf was just want I wanted—a substantial and satisfying meal that incorporated a large quantity of broccoli.  Not only did it make a delicious late spring dinner, the leftovers made a pretty fine lunch the next day.  And since it needs no reheating or final assembly, it would make a great addition to a picnic basket, a boxed lunch or a pot luck dinner.

Leftovers...for lunch, the next day...

  

Farro with Broccoli & Green Olives

2/3 c. pitted green olives, quartered
1/2 c. golden raisins
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more as needed 
2 T. Olive oil, plus more to finish

1 bunch spring onions—white and some of the green—trimmed and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1 c. pearled or semi-pearled farro, rinsed
2 c. water
3/4 to 1 lb. broccoli crowns, cut into large florets (stems split so no thicker than 1/3-inch)
a big handful arugula, stemmed and roughly chopped if the leaves are large
salt & pepper, to taste

Place the first three ingredients in a large bowl.  Unless you have very lemony or tangy olives (like I did) add the lemon juice.  Toss to combine and set aside to marinate....giving it a stir occasionally while the farro cooks.

Sweat the onion, along with a pinch of salt, in the olive oil until the onion is tender—about 5 minutes. Add the farro and continue to cook and stir until the farro is well-coated in the fat, lightly toasted and hot through—2 or 3 minutes. Add the water, along with some salt (start with 1/2 t.), and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and cook, until tender but still firm in the center—about 25 minutes. Let the farro rest, covered, off of the heat for 5 minutes.  When the farro is done, drain off the excess liquid, add to the bowl with the marinated olives and chickpeas.  Toss to combine.  Spread the on a sheet pan to cool. 

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to the boil.  Salt generously.  Add the broccoli and cook until just tender—it's ok if it still has a bit of crunch.  Drain and spread on kitchen towels to cool.   

Return the farro mixture along with the cooled broccoli and arugula to the bowl and and toss to combine.  Taste and correct the seasoning.  If farro seems dry, drizzle in some olive oil.  If the pilaf seems dull or flat, add a generous squeeze of lemon.  Serves 4 as an entrée. 

Notes:  

• To make the pilaf into a more substantial meal, serve accompanied by a spoonful of ricotta or labneh...or a wedge of cheese.  
• To "refresh" any leftovers, toss with a bit of olive oil (to add moisture and sheen) before serving.  Also, it is always a good idea to taste and correct the seasoning (salt and lemon) before serving leftovers since the seasoning tends to become muted as time passes.
• For an alternate presentation, increase the amount of arugula to 2 large handfuls and don't add to the pilaf.  Instead, dress the arugula separately with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, pepper and a little olive oil.  Arrange the dressed arugula on the plate(s) and mound the farro/broccoli mixture on top.

Printable Recipe

Orecchiette with Broccoli & Italian Sausage

The week before last was an unusually hectic one.  As Saturday approached, between the demands of family and work, I realized that I wasn't going to be able to make my weekly run to the farmers' market.  This might not seem like a big deal...but to me it was.  I don't remember the last time during the growing season—when I was in town—that I missed a Saturday morning market.  Not only do I just love to be there....from mid-April through October it is the source of most of our produce each week. 

When I finally got around to doing our weekly produce shopping (at the grocery store) on Monday, I gravitated towards the Asparagus...it really is what I'm in the mood for this time of year.  I mentioned in a previous post that due to the lateness of our Spring (and the consequent lack of any local produce) that I had been purchasing quite a bit of California asparagus and that it had been very nice.  Well, the stuff I saw Monday was a different story.  As I looked at it I wondered, as I frequently do when I happen to see inferior "in season" produce in a grocery store, why anyone would purchase it.  Almost always, the locally grown counterparts—which are abundant, and therefore cheaper—are truly superior.

With some regret and irritation, I moved past the asparagus and came upon the broccoli.  Good old, reliable broccoli.  Even if the broccoli at the grocery store isn't as fantastic as just-cut, farm-fresh, it is almost always of a reasonable quality.  And it seems to be available year round.  When nothing else at the store looks good, I can usually count on broccoli. 

Because broccoli is so ubiquitous it is sort of a "go to" green vegetable for us.  Simply blanched and tossed with olive oil, it is a fine side vegetable for a weeknight meal.  Not surprisingly, it often appears at my house as a "sauce" for pasta.  Most of the time it ends up in a pasta with some combination of olives/capers/anchovies, pepper flakes, garlic, pine nuts and lemon zest.  I love it  this way.  This week though, I wanted to combine it with some Italian Sausage. 

I found a recipe in one of my favorite pasta books for a traditional Pugliese pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Italian Sausage.  It looked simple...and delicious...and most importantly, I had all the ingredients in the house.  I obviously didn't have any broccoli rabe, but after looking at the recipe I knew that I could easily adapt it for regular broccoli.  I think this pasta would be delicious with just about any green...kale and chard in particular come to mind.

One of the things I like about this dish is the method used for cooking the sausage.  Instead of warming the oil and then adding the sausage, the recipe instructs you to put the sausage into a cold pan along with the oil and garlic.  Doing this makes the sticky Italian sausage easier to break up as it begins to cook.  I don't know why I never thought of doing this before...it is, after all, exactly how I routinely cook bacon (by starting it in a cold pan).  If you like your sausage to have crispy edges, this method will not be for you, but if you just want the sausage to be cooked and to blend in nicely with the other ingredients, this is an excellent method.

You will notice in the ingredient list that I have included some optional lemon zest and dried oregano.  These were not part of the original recipe, but I liked the lift and interest they added to the dish.  I'm sure the pasta would be delicious without them...and I would not hesitate to make this pasta if I didn't have them on hand. 

I'm happy to report that I was able to return to the market this morning.  As always when I go after having missed a week (after returning from vacation for example), I was struck by how much the market has changed in such a short span of time.  Whereas before the offerings were quite thin, this week there was abundance:  greens of all kinds (arugula, lettuces, kale, chard, broccoli rabe), radishes and white top turnips, the first of the beets, larger spring onions, strawberries.....and, to my surprise, broccoli.  I'm sure this pasta will be even more delicious with fresh, local broccoli.

 Orecchiette with Broccoli & Italian Sausage

1 1/4 lbs. broccoli crowns

1/4 c. olive oil

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 t. red pepper flakes, or to taste

1/2 lb. Italian sausage, casings removed if necessary

Zest of 1 large lemon (optional)

1 t. dried oregano (optional)

1 lb. orecchiette

2 T. Extra Virgin Olive oil

freshly grated Pecorino

Prepare the broccoli:  Trim the florets away from the stems and cut into uniform, small (3/4- to 1-inch) florets.  Trim the tough end off of the stalk (you should only need to trim away about a quarter inch or so—because you are using "crowns" the stalk portion should be almost entirely usable).  Peel away any thick/tough skin on the portion of the stalk that remains.  Cut the trimmed and peeled stalks into rough 1/4-inch by 1-inch batonnets. 

Ingredients for half of a recipe

Bring 6 quarts of water to the boil in a large stock/pasta pot.

Meanwhile, place 1/4 c. olive oil, garlic, pepper flakes and sausage in a very large, cold sauté pan.  Set over medium heat.  Cook, breaking up the sausage with a fork or a wooden spoon.  When the contents of the pan begin to sizzle add the zest and oregano.  Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage has lost its pinkness,  Set side and keep warm.

While the sausage cooks, cook the broccoli and the pasta:  When the pasta water comes to a boil, add 2 T. of salt (or to taste).  Add the broccoli stems and cook until just tender—about 3 minutes.  Add the florets to the pot and continue to cook until the florets are just tender—another 2 minutes.  Scoop the broccoli out, shaking off any excess water and add to the pan with the sausage.  Toss to combine and keep warm (in a warm spot or over very low heat) while the pasta cooks. 

Add the pasta to the same pot that the broccoli was cooked in and cook until al dente.  Drain, reserving a cup of the cooking liquid.  Add the pasta to the pan and toss to combine—adding some of the reserved pasta water if it looks dry.  Drizzle in the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil and toss again.  Serve, passing the Pecorino on the side.  Serves 4 to 6.

Note: If preparing this pasta with Broccoli Rabe, use 1 1/2 to 2 lbs.  Trim away any tough or dry portions of the stems and split any stems that are thicker than a pencil.  Blanch the broccoli rabe in the boiling salted water until just tender.  Lift out and spread on a baking sheet to cool.  When cool enough to handle, squeeze out the excess water, coarsely chop and add to the pan with the sausage.  Proceed with the recipe as written.  If using kale or chard, prepare as for the broccoli rabe, removing the ribs of the greens (discard the ribs) before blanching.

(Recipe adapted from Four Seasons Pasta by Janet Fletcher)

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