Golden Beet & Pear Soup

Whenever someone hires me to prepare a meal, the first thing I do is ask them about their food preferences.  Of course I want to make sure that I know about allergies and food dislikes…but mostly I’m interested in finding out what they really love to eat…or what they are in the mood for right now—basically what will make the meal special for them.  Most of the time people request a certain protein for the entrée…or a seasonal ingredient that they would love to have somewhere in the menu.  Occasionally someone will request a particular classic dish.  But most of the time the requests are general in nature.  Whether general or specific, I use their preferences to design a few menus (that sound delicious to me) that they can then choose from.

Recently as I was getting ready to prepare a special lunch for two women who have been coming to my classes since the very first class I taught (almost 20 years ago!), I was surprised to get a very specific request in response to my query:  Golden Beet & Pear Soup.  I had never thought of making a golden beet soup (a great idea because you get the delicious beet flavor without the shocking color of a magenta soup)…much less combining it with pear.  But beet and pear are a classic salad combination…and I knew the flavors would work well together.  So I included a golden beet and pear soup in my proposal.  I was not surprised when they chose it for their first course.

Almost all of my puréed soups follow the same formula:  cook some aromatic vegetables (always some onion/leek/shallot…often garlic, carrot and/or celery…occasionally fennel or peppers) in a fat of some kind (butter, olive oil…sometimes bacon fat) in order to infuse the fat with the flavor of these vegetables.  This step gives depth and roundness of flavor to the finished soup.  (You should never skip it.)  You can add spices and herbs with the aromatic vegetables if you like.  Then, add the main vegetable(s)—either in their raw form or already cooked (roasted, for example)—along with some stock or water.  All of this is then simmered together to soften the vegetables (if they were raw) and blend the flavors.  You can also add herbs and other flavors towards the end of cooking if you would like their flavor to be more prominent (rather than the background flavor of those added at the beginning).  Finally, purée and pass the soup through a sieve (to give the most velvety texture) and finish with cream if you like. That’s all there is to it.

Most of the time the main vegetable will provide all the thickening that you need for a puréed soup (they don’t need to be super thick).  Although occasionally you will find recipes that incorporate potato with the main vegetable since the potato will add thickness and body.  Frequently I will add a little rice to cook with the vegetables.  This provides a small amount of starch for thickening, but mostly I like it because it seems to help emulsify the liquids and solids together (adding to that aforementioned velvety texture).

Because I thought the beet and pear would make a subtle soup, I was careful not to get carried away with my additions.  I didn’t add any carrot or celery, which could easily have overwhelmed.  To the onion-shallot-garlic base, I added a little coriander (to accentuate the sweetness of the beets and pear) and thyme (which I love with pear and apples in savory preparations).  I also added some ginger, which I thought would light up both main flavors (it did!).  I could have added it at the beginning with the aromatic vegetables, but in this case I felt this would soften the flavor too much.  Instead I opted to add it towards the end.

It is always a good idea to finish a puréed soup with a nice garnish of some kind.  This will provide complimentary flavor…or a great textural contrast.  It also adds to the beauty of the final dish.  Something as simple as a drizzle of olive oil…or lightly frothed cream…or crème fraiche…and a sprinkling of herbs (maybe parsley or chives) is sufficient.  But all kinds of things are possible:  seasoned oils, bits of cheese, seeds, nuts, a complimentary or contrasting vegetable purée, pesto, croutons or garlic/cheese toasts.

For this soup I added a drizzle of olive oil and some crumbled blue cheese and minced toasted walnuts—which complimented both the beets and the pears…as well as each other.  It seemed like an obvious finish to me.

I was astonished by this soup.  It is subtle…and suave…tasting of beets, with a fragrant, slightly sweet finish from the pear.  A truly special and elegant soup.  I wouldn't have thought of if it hadn't been suggested to me.  It will now have a permanent place in my repertoire.  I hope that you will give it a try.  I know that I will remember my friends…and their special lunch…every time I make it.

Golden Beet & Pear Soup

1 1/2 T. olive oil
1 large onion (about 1/2 lb.), thinly sliced
1 shallot (1 oz.), thinly sliced
1 fat clove of garlic, sliced
1/2 t. coriander seed
1/2 T. picked thyme
1 T. unsalted butter
1 lb. gold beets, peeled, halved if small, quartered if large, and sliced a scant 1/4-inch thick
1/2 T. Arborio rice
1 large firm, but ripe, pear (about 1/2 lb.)
3 c. Chicken stock, plus more as needed for consistency
1 T. minced fresh ginger (or more to taste)
1/4 c. heavy cream
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, if needed
Salt & Pepper
Garnish of your choice:  drizzle of olive oil, spoonful of crème fraiche, crumbled blue cheese (something like a Danish Blue or an aged Gorgonzola), minced toasted walnuts, etc.

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion, shallot, garlic, coriander and thyme, along with a generous pinch of salt.  Cover and gently sweat until the onions are soft—about 15 minutes.  Add the butter and melt.  Add the beets and cook for 5 to 10 minutes—until they are beginning to soften.  Add the rice and cook another 2 or 3 minutes.  Add the pear and cook for a minute or two.  Add the stock and bring to a simmer.  Cover and cook until the beets are beginning to be tender—about 40 minutes, add the ginger and continue to cook until the beets are tender—about 20 minutes more. (It will seem like the beets are taking forever to cook.  But don’t worry…at right about the one hour mark the will go from being a bit crisp to tender.)  Purée the soup and pass through a fine meshed strainer.

Return the soup to the pot and add the cream.  Add water or more stock if the soup is too thick for your liking.  Heat through.  Remove from the heat.  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt & pepper.  If the soup tastes flat or out of balance, add a small squeeze of lemon. The effect of the lemon should be to make the sweet flavors in the soup pop.  You won’t need much…maybe a teaspoon.  If you add too much, the soup will become tangy (which is not the goal).  You may also add more freshly grated ginger if you like—but be careful, the flavors of the soup are subtle and too much ginger will overwhelm the beet and pear.  Serve with a spoonful of crème fraiche, or a drizzle of olive oil, blue cheese crumbles and minced toasted walnuts.

Makes 5 cups or four servings (recipe is easily multiplied for more)

Printable Version

Winter into Spring Salad

Recently while scrolling Instagram a beautiful salad from AOC in Los Angeles caught my eye.   It isn’t really surprising that this happened…I love Suzanne Goin’s salads.  They are always beautiful.  But more importantly, they taste even better than they look.  She has a gift for combining not only colors and shapes, but textures and flavors.  I don’t think I have made all the salads in her book Sunday Suppers at Lucques…but I have made a lot of them (some I have shared on my blog).  I have never been disappointed.

Of course I didn’t have a recipe for the salad pictured on Instagram, but that didn’t stop me from making it.  The combination of arugula (a long time favorite lettuce) and radicchio (my current favorite winter “green”) with oranges, dates, pistachios and goat cheese rang all my bells.  And because I have been keeping radicchio as part of my “lettuce pantry” this winter, I had all the ingredients on hand.

I did make a couple of changes to the salad.  First, I added some roasted beets. I don’t always have roasted beets in my fridge, but for some reason that escapes me now, I had some.  When I began pulling the ingredients for the salad out on the day I intended to make it for lunch, I pulled out the beets because my memory of the picture included beets.  When I checked the IG post before I made my salad to make sure I had everything, I realized there were no beets in the image.  All I can say is that they clearly belonged in my version of the salad. 

The other change I made was the kind of cheese. I had goat cheese out and was going to use it, but decided at the last minute while I was making the salad that I wanted a salty element.  So I used Feta instead of goat cheese. It was delicious—not only did I really like the salt with the sweet beets and dates, I liked the crumblier, firmer texture of the Feta.

I mentioned in my last post that I like to keep a versatile mustard and shallot based vinaigrette on hand.  The one I had in my fridge was a simple champagne vinaigrette that is good with bitter winter greens (like radicchio) and winter fruits… so that’s the one I used.  It worked very well. 

The salad was just excellent.  I’m sharing it here as I made it: for one.  But it would be an easy thing to multiply the ingredients to make a big platter for a crowd…or several individual plated salads.

The day I made the salad, I posted a picture of the salad on Instagram.  When my sister-in-law saw it she commented that the plate just screamed springtime.  I was struck by her comment because the ingredients (citrus…winter lettuces….beets…) seemed very wintery to me.  But she was right about the brilliant colors.  So I’m calling this my “Winter into Spring Salad.” 

 

Winter into Spring Salad
(Arugula with Radicchio, Citrus & Dates)

1/2 a large or 1 small, Cara cara orange
1/2 oz. Arugula
1/2 oz. Radicchio (about 2 leaves), torn into large bite-sized pieces
1 T. (or to taste) Champagne Vinaigrette (see below)
1 medium beet (about 3 oz.), roasted and cut into 8 to 10 wedges or halved and sliced crosswise (dressed with lemon or vinegar of your choice, if you like)
2 Medjool dates, pitted and each cut into 6 to 7 lengthwise strips
A mounded tablespoon of pistachios, lightly toasted (or not—as you prefer) and very coarsely chopped
1 oz. Feta in brine, broken/crumbled

Prepare the orange:  Slice off the stem and blossom ends.  Set the fruit so that it is resting on one of the flat, cut surfaces.  Using a thin, sharp knife, cut away the rind in strips.  As you cut, follow the contour of the fruit with your knife and use the previous cut to guide where you make the next cut so that you remove all of the peel, pith and membrane...but as little of the flesh as possible. Slice from top to bottom and rotate the fruit as you make each cut.  You should end up with a smooth, sphere of citrus that is free of membrane, pith and peel.  Cut the orange in half from top to bottom (direction of the segments).  If the orange is large, I only use one half.  If small, I’ll use the whole thing.  Cut the halves into quarters, lay them on their side and cut cross-wise in quarter inch or so slices.

Place the arugula and radicchio in a small bowl. Season with salt and drizzle with enough vinaigrette to barely coat—don’t weigh the greens down with the dressing…you can drizzle more over the salad after you build it.  Toss to thoroughly coat the lettuces.  Give the beets a drizzle of the vinaigrette and season with salt & pepper if you didn’t dress them with vinegar and season them when you roasted them.

Scatter half of the greens over the plate.  Arrange half of all the other elements over the greens.  Repeat these two layers.  Drizzle with more vinaigrette and serve.  Serves 1…but multiplies easily to serve as many as you like.

Champagne vinaigrette:
2 T. Champagne vinegar
1 small shallot, peeled and finely minced (1 1/2 to 2 T.)
1/4 t. salt, or to taste
1 t. Dijon mustard
6 T. extra-virgin olive oil

Make the vinaigrette:  Place the vinegar in a small bowl with the shallots and salt.  Set aside for five minutes or so to let the shallots soften a bit. Add the mustard and whisk until smooth. While whisking constantly, add the olive oil in a thin stream to form a slightly thickened, emulsified dressing.  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt.  Set aside.

Printable Version

Clear Polish Borsch with Mushroom Dumplings (Uszka)...and a bonus recipe for Mushroom Tortellini in Sage Browned Butter

I have so many good memories of my days working with my friend Nancy at the Culinary Center of Kansas City, but one of the things I enjoyed doing the most was the series of "Bistro Dinners" we prepared together.  We usually cooked 2 or 3 Bistro Dinners a month.  These dinners were open to the public and were served at long family-style tables.  They were always fun and festive.  Generally, we prepared four courses...and there was always a particular theme.  We did special holiday themed dinners...regional and seasonal dinners...and ethnic dinners of all kinds.  Because we covered so much food territory during the preparation of these meals, I was exposed to a lot of foods and traditions that I might not have ever experienced otherwise...Nancy created some very fun and interesting menus.

I was reminded of all of this recently when I was bouncing ideas off of Nancy for an upcoming Valentine's Day dinner class.  Nancy suggested that I resurrect a Polish Borsch that we had served at a Christmas bistro dinner.  I remembered this particular dish because it was so elegant and beautiful....a clear, deep red broth with tiny mushroom dumplings...called uszka...floating in it.  And even though this dish is traditionally served in Poland for Christmas Eve, I agreed that it would be just the thing as a first course for Valentine's Day. 

I have not altered the broth recipe that we used at all (I think it was from Saveur Magazine...but I'm not really sure).  It is simple and delicious...and very easy to make.  Even so, I do have a few pointers to share:  First, the seemingly large amount of lemon juice is correct.  As I looked at the recipe again, I was dubious.  But the acidity of the lemon sets the deep, bright color...and, just as importantly, balances the sweet, earthiness of the beets.  I have seen recipes that use vinegar instead, but I can't personally vouch for these.  If you would like to try vinegar, use half as much. 

Secondly, keep all of the vegetables in very large chunks....or whole...and don't boil the broth hard.  Cutting the vegetables into small pieces and/or cooking at a hard boil will make for a cloudy broth.  It isn't really even necessary to boil the broth.  After it comes to an initial simmer, it should just be kept at what I would call a bare simmer.  An instant read thermometer will read somewhere between 190° and 200°.  Then, if time allows, let the broth sit and cool at room temperature for a couple of hours.  Better yet, chill the broth—before straining the solids out—over night.  When made this way, the final flavor of the broth will be full and developed. 

Finally, even if for some reason you decide not to make the amazing little mushroom dumplings that are traditionally served in this soup, don't leave out the dried porcini when making the broth.  They add a lot of flavor.  To be honest, I can't imagine making this soup without the dumplings...they add so much.  And since making the mushroom filling involves soaking and simmering dried mushrooms, I add their liquid to the soup too.... 

The mushroom filling I used in the dumplings is a mixture of cooked dried porcinis and fresh criminis.  I have seen recipes that use all fresh or all dried, but I like a mix.  Using mostly fresh saves a bit of money....and using a small amount of dried amplifies the flavor.  A lot of recipes insist on all porcini (fresh and/or dried), but I have seen more than one recipe that says the dumplings are traditionally made with whatever mushroom is available.  No matter what kind of mushroom you use, cook them until all the moisture has been released and has evaporated.  If the filling is runny or wet, the dough will become soggy as it leaches the moisture out of the filling.  The filling includes bread crumbs to help absorb any moisture that might remain.

The dough that is traditionally used to make the dumplings is very similar to fresh Italian pasta.  In fact, the dumplings are basically the same thing as tortellini.  Italian noodle dough is made of eggs and flour.  The traditional polish dough substitutes water (sometimes milk) and a little oil for some of the egg.  Because I like the all egg dough I usually make, that's what I use when I make the uszka.  If you don't want to make the dough at all, you may use purchased wonton wrappers instead.

If you have never made pasta before, check out my post on fresh spinach pasta from several years ago.  As noted at the bottom of that recipe, the method for plain pasta is the same.  The only difference is that the sheets of dough are rolled more thinly—you should be able to see shapes and patterns through the sheet of dough—and the dough is cut and filled immediately after rolling into sheets (whereas pasta sheets that will be cut into ribbons are allowed to sit out until they lose some of their moisture and begin to feel somewhat leathery).

While I was experimenting with the uszka, I decided to make a quick little lunch one day...serving the uszka Italian style.  It was so good I wanted to share it here (although you can find recipes just like this all over the web).  I simply sauced some of the cooked uszka...more appropriately called mushroom tortellini in this guise...in some browned butter with fried sage and lemon.  I topped the dish with a mix of grated Parmesan and Pecorino. It was delicious and would be worth making the uszka simply to have them like this.  Just like the Borsch, I think it would make a wonderful first course for a dinner with friends.

Barszcz z Uszkami

Borsch with Mushroom Dumplings (Uszka)

4 large beets (800g), peeled and quartered

1 large carrot (120g), peeled

1 parsnip (120g), peeled

1 medium leek, white part only

2 bay leaves

1/4 cup lemon juice

4 allspice berries

10 black peppercorns

1/4 oz. dried porcini mushrooms

2 cups chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

36 to 48 uszka

Put the beets, carrot, parsnip, leek, bay leaves, lemon juice, allspice, peppercorns, porcini, and chicken stock in a large pot, and add 8 cups of cold water. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce heat to medium-low, and barely simmer for about 2 hours (the temperature should hover around 190°). Remove from heat and let sit for 2 hours.  If time, chill overnight to allow it to steep even further.  Strain, and discard the solids.  Add water to make 6 cups broth.

Return beet stock to the pot and bring back to a simmer over low heat. Correct the seasoning with salt, pepper and more lemon as necessary. Place 6 cooked uszka in each of 6 to 8 individual soup plates, and pour the hot borsch over the uszka.  Serve immediately.

Printable Recipe

Uszka

(Mushroom Dumplings)

1/4 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, soaked overnight a cup of water

2 to 3 T. butter

1 small yellow onion (4 to 5 oz.), peeled and finely minced

6 oz. fresh mushrooms (crimini, white button, etc.), finely chopped in the

food processor

1/4 c. fresh white bread crumbs

2 T. minced flat leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh pasta dough or purchased Wonton wrappers

Transfer porcini to a small pot, then strain soaking liquid through a coffee filter (or damp paper towel) into the same pot. Simmer over medium-low heat, adding water as necessary, until porcini are tender, about 2 hours. Remove porcini from the pot, finely mince, and set aside.  Strain the cooking liquid into the Borsch.

Melt 2 T. butter in a medium skillet set over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until tender and golden, about 10 to 15 minutes...add the remaining tablespoon of butter if the pan seems dry.  Add the fresh mushrooms and minced porcini and continue to cook until the liquid given up by the mushrooms has evaporated and the mixture begins to sizzle—about 10 minutes. Stir in bread crumbs and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Set aside to cool.  (The filling may be made a day or two ahead.  Cover and chill.)

If using fresh pasta, roll out dough on a lightly floured surface or using your pasta machine (as described in the recipe below) until very thin (it should be thin enough to see shapes/patterns through it). Cut into 50 or so 1 3/4- to 2-inch squares, and cover with plastic wrap to prevent the squares from drying out. (If using wonton wrappers, trim so they are 2-inch squares.) 

Place a scant teaspoon of filling in the center of each square, lightly dampen the edges with water, then fold bottom corner to top corner, pressing gently from the top down the sides to remove any air pockets. At this point they should look like triangles. Fold the right and left corners over each other, and pinch them between your thumb and forefinger so they hold together. Set the uszka on a semolina dusted sheet pan, making sure they aren't touching, as you form them.

The uszka may be cooked right away, or they may be stored for up to 24 hours under refrigeration.  To store, allow them to dry slightly, uncovered, at room temperature, for about an hour.  Then, cover them loosely with a linen or paper towel and wrap the sheet pan tightly in with plastic wrap and transfer to the refrigerator. 

Cook uszka in batches in a large pot of gently boiling salted water over high heat, until the pasta is al dente...about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon, transferring them directly to serving bowls or placing them on a lightly oiled baking sheet where they may be kept, lightly covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve.  Chill if not serving within an hour of cooking. 

Note:  Although not ideal, the uszka may also be frozen for up to a week.  Place the sheets with the uskza in the freezer and when they are frozen hard, transfer to ziplock freezer bags and seal.  When ready to cook, spread them on a semolina dusted sheet and let them thaw, uncovered.  This will only take about 20 minutes.  Cook as for fresh.

Fresh Pasta:

1 1/2 c. (165 to 175 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

2 large eggs (100 to 110 grams)

Semolina flour

Mound the flour on a counter top and make a well in the center.  Crack the eggs into the well and break them up with a fork.  Gradually begin incorporating flour from the walls of the well into the eggs.  When the walls start to collapse, begin using a bench scraper to cut the flour and liquid ingredients together.  At first the dough will seem an unmanageable, shaggy mass.  Begin to work the dough until you have a cohesive mass that you can knead without it sticking to your fingers.  This initial formation of the dough will take about three minutes.  If at the end of this time there is unincorporated flour remaining, sift it to remove any bits of dough.  Set this sifted flour aside to be used for the remainder of the kneading process and wash your hands to remove any caked on bits. 

Continue to knead the dough (adding flour if the dough is sticky) for 10 minutes until the dough is satiny, smooth and elastic—with no trace of stickiness.  Wrap in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes to 3 hours.

Alternatively, place the eggs and flour in a mixer fitted with a dough hook.  Begin to mix on the lowest speed.  When the dough begins to come together, increase the speed to medium and knead for 10 minutes.

To roll out the dough using a pasta machine, work with half of the dough at a time.  Flatten the dough into a thick disk and flour lightly.  Starting with the widest setting, pass the dough through the rollers six to eight times or until the dough firms up, folding it in thirds each time and turning the dough so an open end feeds into the roller.  Continue to lightly flour the dough as you work.  Set the rollers at the next, narrower setting and pass the dough through two or three times or until the dough is almost the width of the roller, folding in half each time and passing through the rollers folded edge first.  Set the rollers for the next, narrower setting and pass the dough through, but do not fold it.  Run the dough through at each successively narrower setting, until the desired thickness is achieved. 

(Pasta recipe adapted from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper)

Note:  This recipe makes almost twice as much dough as you need to make 50 uszka...I would have written the recipe for half quantities, but this leaves no wiggle room for differences in how people roll out dough.  I would prefer not to cut it so close.   

Printable Recipe

Mushroom Tortellini in Sage Browned Butter

6 to 8 T. unsalted butter

20 to 24 small sage leaves

Lemon juice to taste

Salt & pepper

1 recipe uszka/mushroom tortellini (about 50...or 250 grams)

Freshly grated Parmesan and/or Pecorino

Place butter in a small saucepan and melt over medium heat.  As the butter continues to cook it will bubble and spatter.  When the spattering begins to subside, watch the butter very carefully—the milk solids will brown very quickly at this point.  When the solids have turned a nice golden brown, remove the pan from the heat.  Add the sage leaves and let sizzle briefly until they crisp.  Cool the pan down by dipping in a shallow pan of cool water, or by adding a few drops of cool water to the butter and swirl in.  Season the butter to taste with lemon juice and salt.  It will take a fair amount of both—don’t be timid.  Set aside while you cook the tortellini.

Drop the tortellini in a large pot of gently boiling salted water.  Cook until the pasta is al dente...about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon, transferring them to the pan of warm browned sage butter.  Toss to coat in the butter, adding a splash of the cooking water to extend the sauce if necessary.  Divide the tortellini among 4 plates.  Scatter some freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino over and serve right away.

Printable Recipe

A Salad of Beets, Pears, Nuts & Cheese...with Bacon & Arugula

I had not planned on posting this salad this week...or ever, actually.  After all, salads with beets and goat cheese...or pears and blue cheese...are ubiquitous.  But as is almost always the case when a recipe persists in popularity over the long haul, there is usually a reason:  the original was—and still can be—truly delicious.   Preparing such a recipe—one that stands up to the original—is always about choosing the best ingredients...and of course, combining them with care.

I was reminded of this as I prepared a salad of roasted beets, pears, cheese, nuts and bacon—a combination of these two aforementioned salads—over the weekend for some dinner clients.  The beets were sweet...the pears were perfectly ripe and juicy....and both were set off to perfection by the spicy-sweet pecans, crispy bacon and pungent blue cheese.  It looked so good to me that I prepared it for dinner at my house the next night.  I didn't happen to have any blue cheese on hand...but I did have some nice goat cheese, which made a more than adequate stand in. 

This particular salad is from Frank Stitt's Southern Table, and his fondness for the ingredients of his native south is on full display.  Where some add olives for a salty counterpoint to the sweetness of the beets, he adds bacon...which also happens to go beautifully with the pears (and blue cheese).  And in lieu of the more commonly chosen walnuts, he uses pecans...all dressed up with sugar and spice.  I find his variations to be inspired.  And judging from my clients' enthusiastic enjoyment, so did they.  I think you will too.  Right now...while beets and pears are in season...is the perfect time to give it a try. 

Autumn Salad of Roasted Beets, Pears,

Blue Cheese & Pecans

1 lb. Beets (trimmed weight), scrubbed & stemmed

Balsamic vinegar, to taste

6 oz. bacon, cut into 1-inch squares

2 large Bartlett pears or 3 small Seckel pears,

6 handfuls of arugula (about 4 to 6 oz.)

Sherry Vinaigrette (see below)

3/4 c. Toasted pecans or Spiced Pecans

4 to 6 oz. Fourme d'Ambert, Roquefort, Gorgonzola or Stilton...crumbled, cubed or sliced; Or, you may use crumbled goat cheese

Preheat the oven to 375°.  Place the beets in a roasting pan and add 1/4-inch of water.  Cover the pan with foil and roast the beets until they are tender all the way through—about an hour, depending on the size and age of the beets.  When the beets are cool enough to handle (although they should still be a bit warm), trim the roots and stems off and gently rub the skins off using a paper towel.  Cut the beets into thin wedges—or halve them and slice them cross-wise—and toss in balsamic vinegar to taste.  Season with salt & pepper and set aside. (The beets can be made ahead.  Chill until ready to serve.)

Render the bacon until crisp...set aside.

When ready to serve the salad, quarter and core the pears.  Cut each quarter into thin wedges (about the same thickness as the beet wedges) and toss with a small amount of the vinaigrette.

In a similar manner, dress the beets with a small amount of the vinaigrette.

Place the arugula in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with just enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat.  Toss well.  Arrange half to two-thirds of the beets, pears, bacon, pecans and cheese on the plates.  Divide the arugula among the plates.  Arrange the remaining beets, pears, bacon, pecans and cheese attractively over the greens (some on top and some nestled in among the lettuces).  Serves 6.

Sherry Vinaigrette:

2 T. Sherry vinegar

1 small shallot, finely diced

Salt & Pepper

6 T. olive oil

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and shallot.  Season to taste with salt & pepper and set aside for a few moments to allow the shallot to soften.  Gradually whisk in the oil, adding it in a thin stream.  Taste and correct the seasoning and the vinegar balance.

(Recipe adapted from Frank Stitt's Southern Table)

Printable Version

A Spring Salad…Arugula, Mint, Beets & Asparagus…dressed with Orange Vinaigrette

Spring salad.  ….Two little words that conjure up images of exactly what I’m craving this time of year:  the light and fresh greens—and green vegetables—of the new season at the farmers’ market.  I have been visiting my Farmers’ market now for almost a month.  And although the offerings are still a bit thin, I have been able to find all of the ingredients I need to make one of my favorite spring salads….arugula with beets and asparagus. 

I first ran across this unusual combination of beets and asparagus years ago in an article in Bon Appétit featuring representative dishes from the various regions of the French countryside.  I have made this salad many times over the years…and I am always struck by how good it tastes.  If you are dubious, I encourage you to give it a try.  The original salad included hazelnuts…but I sometimes replace them with walnuts or pistachios.  Often I add olives…or goat cheese…but the salad is delicious without them.  I don’t remember what kind of vinaigrette was on that original salad, long ago I discovered that an orange vinaigrette (and a handful of fresh mint) lights up this flavor combination better than just about anything else. 

You can make an orange vinaigrette with fresh orange juice and orange zest, but you get a more intense flavor…and better emulsification….if you reduce the orange juice down to a thick syrup.  Reducing the juice is easy…it just takes a bit of patience.  The temptation to boil it rapidly is great, but usually results in a scorched or caramelized reduction.  The best results are achieved by bringing the orange juice to a boil and then reducing the heat to very low and patiently letting the juice reduce.  The liquid doesn’t really even have to simmer…it just needs to steam.  Occasionally, run a heat proof rubber spatula around the sides and bottom of the pan to make sure that none of your precious reduction is sticking to the sides and burning.  Your goal is a thick syrup….you will get a generous 2 tablespoons of reduction from 2/3 to 3/4 of a cup of fresh juice.  Towards the end of the cooking, watch it very carefully—even over low heat, it will eventually scorch if allowed to cook too long.

When I made this salad last week, I was unable to find Valencia oranges....which I prefer because they produce abundant, sweet juice.  Instead I purchased a couple of Honeybell tangerines (also known for their abundant, sweet juice).  

The tangerine vinaigrette was excellent.  Since the availability of citrus fruits is quite variable this time of year, you should purchase whatever member of the orange/tangerine family you are able to find that is juicy and sweet.  When you make the vinaigrette, take the time to make a full batch.  Since it is delicious on all kinds of ingredients (not just beets and asparagus), I can’t imagine that it will go to waste.   Shaved fresh fennel…raw and cooked carrots….poached artichokes…fresh peas…. all are  delicious dressed with this vinaigrette. 

The vinaigrette itself takes well to all kinds of additions and variations.  Sometimes I add Dijon…   sometimes a few minced shallots or spring onions.  As far as the choice of vinegar is concerned, you have many options.  I prefer something with a lighter color—champagne, white wine, white/golden balsamic…or, going a bit darker, sherry.  But a little red wine vinegar…or even a small amount of balsamic would be fine.  Minced fresh tarragon and mint are nice additions too…as is a little toasted and ground fennel or coriander seed. 

When I made this salad last, I had intended to serve it garnished with a few wedges of hard cooked egg.  (I had on hand some very fresh eggs—a lovely gift from a couple of women who attend my classes and who keep a flock of hens.)  But while the eggs were cooking, I decided I wanted something more substantial, so I made egg salad instead…and spread it on crisp little toasts.  It was the perfect touch.  

I would give you the recipe….but I honestly don’t have one.  I have been making egg salad since I was tall enough to reach the counter.  I never measure….and I still make it the same way I always have…chopped hard cooked egg, enough mayonnaise to make it creamy, and mustard, salt and pepper to taste.  At some point in time I graduated from yellow mustard to Dijon…but it is delicious either way.  This last time, I added a smidge of minced spring onion…and a sprinkle of chives.  Although neither is necessary…egg salad should be all about the eggs.

I love this time of year.  The light… the colors… the new growth all around…  and the beginning of the market season.  If you have not made your way to your market yet, I hope you will soon.  You can’t help but be inspired.  While you’re there, be sure and pick out some beautiful greens….mint (if you don’t have your own little patch)…some asparagus….a few beets….and some local eggs…. 

Spring Salad of Arugula, Mint, Beets & Asparagus

with Orange Vinaigrette

1/2 lb. Beets, scrubbed & stemmed

Red wine or Balsamic vinegar, to taste

3/4 lb. Asparagus, tough ends trimmed

Orange Vinaigrette (below)

Several fresh mint leaves, torn or cut into a wide chiffonade

4 small handfuls arugula, stemmed

1/3 c. pistachios, toasted & coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 400°.  Place the beets in a roasting pan and add a quarter inch of water.  Cover the pan with foil and roast the beets in a pre-heated oven until they are tender all the way through—30 minutes to an hour, depending on the size and age of the beets.  When the beets are cool enough to handle (although they should still be a bit warm), trim the roots and stems off and gently rub the skins off using a paper towel.  Leave baby beets whole; cut medium-sized beets in wedges; dice large beets.  Toss the beets with red wine or balsamic vinegar to taste.  Set aside.

Bring a pan of salted water to a boil.  If the asparagus are very fat, peel the lower 2/3 of each stalk.  Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until just tender.  Drain and refresh under cold running water.  Pat dry and set aside.  (If you are serving the salad right away, simply spread the drained asparagus on towels to cool slightly and steam dry.)

To serve the salad:  Treating each separately, season the beets and asparagus with salt and pepper and dress with the vinaigrette.  Arrange attractively on individual plates or a platter.  Place the arugula and mint leaves in a bowl.  Drizzle with some of the vinaigrette and season with salt & pepper.  Gently toss to make sure all of the leaves are lightly dressed with the vinaigrette—add more vinaigrette as necessary.  Arrange the dressed greens, on the plate(s) with the beets & asparagus.  Sprinkle the toasted pistachios over all. 

Garnish the salad with wedges of hard cooked egg or egg salad toasts.   Serves 4

Notes:  

• If you have never roasted beets for a salad before, there is a more detailed description of the process here.
• Similarly, you can find out how I hard cook an egg in this recent post.
• If you would like a printable recipe for my basic egg salad (outlined above) you can find it here.

Orange Vinaigrette

2 T. Sherry vinegar

2 T. White/Golden Balsamic vinegar

1 medium shallot, finely diced (3 to 4 T.)

Salt & Pepper

1 T. Dijon

Strained juice of 2 Valencia Oranges or Honeybell Tangerines (about 2/3 to 3/4 c.), slowly reduced until syrupy

3/4 c. extra virgin olive oil (or use a neutral oil, if you prefer)

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and shallots.  Season to taste with salt & pepper.  Let sit for a few minutes (to soften the shallots).  Whisk in the mustard and reduced orange juice.  Gradually whisk in the oil, adding it in a thin stream.  Taste and correct the seasoning and the vinegar balance.

(Vinaigrette adapted from recipes in The New Making of a Cook by Madeleine Kamman and The Big Sur Bakery Cookbook by Michelle & Philip Wojtowicz et al)

Printable Recipe