Sunday, July 31, 2016

Savory Summer Galette with Ricotta, Vine-Ripened Tomatoes & Swiss Chard

We have been enjoying evening meals that feature Swiss chard at least once a week this summer.  The chard at the farmers' market has been so beautiful that I have not been able to pass it up.  I guess it's a good thing that chard is so versatile.  Besides being a simple and delicious side dish that compliments almost any protein you might want to pair it with (salmon, lamb, chicken...just to name a few...), it makes a fine addition to a pilaf or a frittata or a quiche.  It can also be the star of the meal in a ricotta gnocchi.  And of course I love it folded into a pasta.   If you saw my post from earlier this month, you know it makes a pretty great addition to a lasagne, too. 

As versatile as it is though, I don't often think of chard as being an "easy" green vegetable.  This is probably due to the fact that it takes up lots of space in the fridge...and then it shrinks dramatically when it's cooked.  Furthermore, it has to be thoroughly rinsed in lots of water...which is kind of messy...and also takes up a lot of space.  It doesn't require quite the same effort as spinach or kale because it doesn't tend to be quite so embedded with sand and grit, but it can be pretty dirty.  I would never cook it without first giving it a good rinse or two in a big bowl...or sink full...of water.  But, once it is trimmed and cleaned, it cooks to tenderness very quickly (much more quickly than kale, for example).  And of course, it tastes delicious. When it comes down to it, it is totally worth the little bit of extra work that it requires. 

Even so, since I have already posted one thing this month that includes chard, I wondered if posting another would be too much.  As I was considering this, I happened to fall into a conversation after one of my classes with someone who follows my blog.  When I told her about the tart—and said that I was thinking of posting the recipe—she commented that she would look forward to it...that everyone who has a CSA membership is always looking for new recipes that use Swiss chard.  I hadn't thought about this, but it's true...Midwestern CSA's are almost always filled with hearty greens like chard (and spinach and kale).  So... this post is for those of you who have opened up your CSA share and discovered yet another big, beautiful, bunch of chard.  (You can find lots of other ideas by browsing through the many other recipes I have posted using chard over the years.)

A friend of mine has been traveling in the south of France this summer...and her pictures have made me long to be in what is one of my favorite places in the world.  So it is probably not a coincidence that I thought to make this tart one evening: the flavors in it remind me of Provence.  Chard is abundant there....and it goes beautifully with the vibrant flavor of vine-ripened summer tomatoes and the briny black olives.  It is in fact a very Provençal dish...both in its style and its combination of flavors.  The tart is delicious right out of the oven.  But on a hot summer day, you can let it cool to room temperature before serving.  Then, if you serve it with a small fluff of lightly dressed greens...or simple vegetable salad... and enjoy it on your shady patio or deck along with a nice chilled glass of Rosé...  It is possible that you might feel like you have been transported...just for a the south of France. 

Provençal Swiss Chard & Summer Tomato Galette

1 recipe Pâte Brisée (see below)
3/4 lb. vine ripened tomatoes
2 T. olive oil
1 small red onion (4 to 5 oz), diced
A generous pinch hot pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large bunch Swiss Chard, stemmed, cut into a wide chiffonade and rinsed well (6 to 7 oz. trimmed weight)
1 c. (240 g.) Whole milk ricotta cheese
1 T. olive oil
2 t. flour
Salt & Pepper
1/4 c. (40 g.) pitted Kalamatas, halved
2 oz. (55 g.) freshly grated Parmesan 

To roll out the dough, let it warm up for a moment or two at room temperature. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a circle that is about 1/8-inch thick and is about 15 to 16 inches across. Brush off the excess flour. Trim any ragged or uneven edges if you like. Transfer the dough to a parchment lined baking sheet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Wash and core the tomatoes.  Using a serrated knife, slice the tomatoes 1/4-inch thick and spread out on a double thickness of paper towel. Sprinkle the tomatoes evenly with salt and let them sit for about 20 minutes so they can give up some of their liquid. When you are ready to build the tart, blot the tomatoes with paper towels to absorb the excess liquid.

While the tomatoes sit, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the onions along with a generous pinch of salt.  Cook gently until the onions are tender and translucent and beginning to caramelize a bit (10 to 20 minutes).  Add the garlic and hot pepper flakes 

and continue to cook until fragrant.  Begin adding the chard to the pan a handful at a time, turning it to coat in the olive oil and onions as you add it.  Add another handful as each successive handful begins to collapse.  When all the chard has been added to the pan, cover and cook over very low heat until tender (about 10 minutes).  Uncover and increase the heat a bit and continue to cook until any remaining liquid has evaporated (another five minutes or so).  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt & pepper. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. 

In a small bowl, combine the ricotta with the olive oil, flour and salt & pepper to taste.  Set aside.  

To build the tart, spread the cheese mixture in a circle in the center of the chilled pâte brisée, leaving a 1 1/2- to 2-inch border of dough. Arrange half of the chard over the cheese 

and top with 2/3 of the blotted tomatoes.  Scatter half of the olives 

and half of the cheese over all.  Repeat these layers with the remaining ingredients. 

Pull up the edges of the crust and gently flip them over the filling to form a rustic edge. Pleat the dough as necessary, pressing lightly into place.

Bake the tart in a 400° oven on the lowest rack (or in the middle with the sheet pan sitting directly on a preheated baking stone). Bake until the filling is bubbling in spots, the tomatoes are puckered slightly, the cheese is melted and tinged with brown, and the crust is crisp and golden brown—about 40 to 45 minutes. Slide the tart onto a rack and let rest for 5 minutes (or cool until just tepid) before serving.

Tart serves 6 to 8.
Pâte Brisée (Short Crust Pastry)

1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour (200g)
1/2 t. salt
10 1/2 T. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces (150g)
1/4 to 1/3 c. ice water

Combine the flour and the salt in a medium-sized bowl. Rub the butter into the flour until the butter is in small pea-sized pieces. Drizzle 3 T. ice water over the flour/butter mixture. Using your hands, fluff the mixture until it begins to clump, adding more water if necessary. Turn the dough out onto a counter and form into a mound. Using the heel of your hand, gradually push all of the dough away from you in short forward strokes, flattening out the lumps. Continue until all of the dough is flat. Using a bench scraper, scrape the dough off the counter, forming it into a single clump as you do. Form the finished dough into a thick disk. Chill for at least 30 minutes.


Sunday, July 24, 2016

Pork Chops with Bing Cherries

Bing cherries are one of my favorite summer foods.  Juicy, sweet, easy to eat out of hand...they are a perfect snack.  Occasionally in my kitchen a few of them will find their way into a batch of scones...or a cake...or a tart....  But mostly, I don't cook with them—I just want to enjoy them raw.

That said, one way I do enjoy Bing cherries in their cooked form is in a compote.  I usually think of a Bing cherry compote as being something for spoon over vanilla ice cream...or accompany a slice of pound cake.  But not always.  A few years ago I ran across a recipe in one of my favorite cookbooks for pork tenderloin with Bing cherries.  The cherries in this recipe are the foundation of a reduction sauce that is really just a savory compote....and it is truly delicious with the pork.  Best of all, if you are willing to pit a few cherries, it is a fast and easy center piece for a simple summer meal (just roast some potatoes...or make some rice or couscous...and blanch a green vegetable ... and you have dinner). 

I have made only one change to the original recipe.  I use boneless pork loin chops instead of pork tenderloin.  I'm not a huge fan of pork tenderloin.  It tends to be a bit dry (because it is so very lean)...and its tapered shape makes it so that it is difficult to cook to a uniform doneness.  Either the narrow portion will be overcooked and dry, or the fatter end will be too undercooked for most people's liking.  Pork loin chops don't have any of these problems.

While on the subject of doneness, I would like to make a case for cooking pork to a lower temperature than the traditionally recommended 145° to 160° F.  The trichinae parasite which for many years was associated with pork has been virtually eradicated in the U.S.   Even if you did have in your possession a piece of pork harboring this parasite, cooking the pork so that it reaches (and maintains for a few moments) a temperature in the range of 135° to 140° F will eradicate the parasite.  (If you are interested in the technical details, there is a lot of information on this USDA site.).  When I cook pork, I aim for an internal temperature between 130° and 135°.  The temperature will continue to rise as the meat rests, stopping somewhere between 135° and 140°.  Cooking to this lower temperature range will result in a nice juicy piece of meat.  Pork with a final internal temperature much over 140° can be pretty dry.

Finally, I want to draw attention to the section of the recipe concerning pan size.  It's very important that the pan be large enough to hold all of the halved cherries in a single layer.  If the cherries are piled on top of one another (in a smaller pan), they will overcook and fall apart while the port and vinegar are reducing.  While I'm sure this would taste fine, it wouldn't be nearly as beautiful on the plate.  It is much better to use two pans than try to crowd everything into one. 

The original recipe for this dish is large, and I should admit that in practice, I almost never make the full recipe.  At home I am only feeding two...and neither of us are very big meat eaters.  We find that one 8 oz. pork chop is sufficient for us...and as long as I prepare a one third recipe of the sauce to go with our one chop (sliced and divided between two plates), we are more than satisfied.  I mention this for a couple of reasons:  First, to show that the recipe is quite flexible...that it can be easily altered to suit your family's needs....and secondly, to point out that all the pictures for this post were taken with these altered quantities (i.e. 1/6th recipe of pork...and 1/3rd recipe of the sauce).

If you have never had Bing cherries—or any of the other dark, sweet varieties that fill the markets during cherry season—in a savory preparation, you should definitely give this recipe a try.  I think that you will find this to be a dish that you will want to revisit each summer... at least once or twice. 

Pan-Seared Pork Chops with Bing Cherries

6 Boneless Pork Loin Chops (about 6 oz. each)
3 small cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
12 sprigs of fresh thyme
Salt & Cracked Black Pepper
1 to 2 T. olive oil
2 shallots, finely diced
1 T. minced fresh thyme
3 c. Bing Cherries (a generous pound), halved and pitted
2 T. sugar
1/4 c. balsamic vinegar
1/2 c. port
Juice of 1/2 a lemon (or to taste)
2 T. butter

The day before you plan to serve the pork, place the pork in a non-reactive baking dish.  Add the thyme, crushing it with your fingers to release its fragrance, along with the garlic.  Rub the pork all over with the thyme and garlic.  Season generously with salt (about 1/4 t. per chop...more or less, to taste) and freshly cracked black pepper.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. 

Heat an ovenproof sauté pan (large enough to hold all of the halved cherries in a single layer*) over medium high heat.  Add the oil and then the pork chops.  Sear, turning once, until the chops are nicely browned.  Transfer the pan to a preheated 400° oven and cook until the chops are done to your liking (an instant read thermometer will read between 130° and 135° for medium).  Total cooking time (including the time on the stove and in the oven) will be about 7 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chops.  Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the chops to a platter.

While the chops rest, make the sauce: Place the pan over medium-high heat and add the shallots and thyme.  Sauté until translucent and fragrant—a minute or so.  

Add the cherries.  Cook, shaking the pan, until the cherries are beginning to sizzle.  

Continuing to shake the pan, scatter the sugar over 

and cook until melted and beginning to caramelize.  

Increase the heat to high and add the balsamic vinegar and port.  Bring to a boil and cook until thickened.  (If the cherries are tender before the sauce is sufficiently reduced.  Remove the pan from the heat and using a slotted spoon, transfer the cherries to a plate.  Return the pan to the heat and continue to reduce the sauce.)  If you are not yet ready to serve the pork, set the pan aside. 

To serve, return the pan to high heat and bring the cherry sauce to a boil, adding any resting juices from the pork to the pan (and returning the cherries to the pan, if they have been removed).  Taste the sauce and add a squeeze of lemon juice if the sauce is overly sweet or flat in taste.  Season to taste with salt and a generous grinding of black pepper.  Swirl in the butter and spoon the cherries and their sauce over the pork (you may serve the chops whole, or slice each on a slight angle for a more elegant presentation).  Serve immediately.  Serves 6

* If you don’t have a sauté pan this large, use 2 smaller sauté pans.  Consolidate all of the cherries and reduced sauce to one of the pans for the final warming with the butter and pork resting juices.

(Recipe adapted from The Vineyard Kitchen—Menus Inspired by the Seasons, Maria Helm Sinskey)

Friday, July 15, 2016

Summer Lasagne...with Swiss Chard, Corn Pesto & Italian Sausage

I never cease to be amazed at the serendipitous way in which a delicious recipe can come together.  Case in point:  Recently, while purchasing dried pasta at the grocery store, I grabbed a box of no-boil lasagne noodles.  I was thinking about the beautiful Swiss chard I had at home and how it might be nice tucked into a lasagne. I didn't really have any specific ideas, other than I knew I had some ricotta in my fridge and consequently a beginning.

It wasn’t until I got home that I began to think about what else might be good.  Tomato sauce is an obvious choice...but the tomatoes really hadn't started to come into their own yet and the few that I had, I wanted to eat raw.  I did have a lot of fresh sweet corn (which is delicious with chard)...but this didn't solve my problem of a sauce...  A béchamel would have worked...but I didn't want anything quite so heavy. 

As it happened, my summer Corn & Zucchini class was approaching and the things that I teach in that class were in the forefront of my mind.  One of the recipes is for a delicious corn pesto.  It occurred to me that the corn pesto would make a pretty fine sauce-y component.  Suddenly, the lasagne fell into place:  Corn pesto, chard (braised with a little onion and garlic), ricotta, more corn...   Italian sausage (I almost always have some in my freezer...and I knew that its salty-sweetness would be just the thing)...  and finally, some low-moisture mozzarella that I happened to have in my cheese drawer.  If I had been purchasing cheese with the purpose of this lasagne in mind, I would have gravitated towards Fontal.  But the mild, faintly sweet, taste of the mozzarella turned out to be the perfect finishing touch.

If you keep regular lasagne (the kind you boil before using) on hand, I'm sure you could boil them and use them instead of the no-boil noodles in this lasagne.  But if you have never tried no-boil noodles, you should.  For one thing, no-boil noodles tend to be thinner than regular lasagne.  This makes for a finished pan of lasagne that is a bit more refined.  Furthermore, no matter how you make it, building lasagne is a project.  No-boil noodles relieve you of at least some of the work and the mess.  I like to dip the no-boil noodles into hot water (in a shallow pan, just off the boil) for a few seconds while I'm building each layer. (It is not necessary to spread them on towels or dry them.)  The quick dip in hot water will help them begin to soften and add the very small amount of moisture they will need to give them a nice tender—but not mushy—texture in the finished dish.  If you cover the baking lasagne with foil until the last 10 to 15 minutes of baking time, the noodles will become evenly hydrated, without drying out on the edges.

To make the lasagne, you will need 1 1/4 cups of roasted corn for the pesto and 1 cup to tuck into the lasagne.  This latter amount is an approximation....  I roast 2 to 3 ears of corn—depending on their size—make the pesto, and then add the remaining kernels to the lasagne.  If you have already made the pesto and don't want to roast more corn, simply add raw corn kernels to the onion and chard mixture in place of roasted corn.  If you have never roasted corn in the husk, check out my post from a few years back for a description of how it's done

As you look at this lasagne, you may think that it doesn't seem like a very large lasagne...but I think you will find that it is pretty rich.  Depending on what else you might be serving, you could get as many as 6 servings out of it.  I confess that the first time I made it, I didn't serve anything else and I ate a quarter of the pan.  On other occasions—with a side vegetable...or a fresh tomato salad—I have been content with a sixth.  If you are feeding a crowd of big eaters, you could make two pans (or in one big pan if you happen to have a 4 1/2-quart shallow, rectangular dish—like a 15- by 9- inch Pyrex).  The leftovers reheat beautifully, so you may want to make a double batch no matter how many you are feeding, just so you can have another serving all to yourself for lunch the next day.

 Swiss Chard & Corn Lasagne with Italian Sausage

4 to 6 oz. Sweet Italian Sausage, casings removed if necessary
1 to 2 T. olive oil
1 small onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 c. corn kernels (cut from a raw or roasted ear of corn)
2 fat cloves garlic, minced
1 large bunch chard, stems removed, leaves cut into wide ribbons and rinsed thoroughly

1 c. (240 g) whole milk ricotta
1 oz. (1/3 c.) finely grated Parmesan
Salt & pepper

1 recipe corn pesto
1/4 c. heavy cream

8 "no-boil" lasagna (half of an 8 oz. box)

5 to 6 oz. coarsely grated low-moisture mozzarella

Place a tablespoon of oil in a wide sauté pan and crumble in the Italian sausage.  Place the pan over moderate heat and cook until the sausage is cooked through (no longer pink).  Remove the sausage to a plate. 

If the sausage was very lean, add more oil to the pan.  Add the onion, along with a good pinch of salt and sweat until very tender and beginning to caramelize on the edges—about 10 to 15 minutes (adding more oil if the onions seem dry).  

Add the corn—along with a pinch of salt—to the pan and cook until it is sizzling and hot through...5 minutes or so. 

Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant—less than a minute.  Begin adding the chard to the pan a handful at a time, turning it to coat in the oil and vegetables and adding successive handfuls as the previous handful begins to collapse.  (If the chard was just washed, it will still have water clinging to it that will help it to collapse.  If it was washed ahead, it may be which case you may need to add a quarter cup or so of water to the pan to create some steam to help the chard wilt.)  When all the chard has been added, cover the pan and cook over low heat until the chard is just tender (about 10 minutes).  Uncover and continue to cook until all the liquid has evaporated (the ingredients will begin to sizzle in the fat) and the chard is very tender.  Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.  

While the chard cooks, combine the ricotta and Parmesan in a small bowl.  Add salt & pepper to taste and blend well.  Set aside. 

In another small bowl, combine the pesto and cream.  Taste and correct the seasoning.  Set aside.

When you are ready to build the lasagne, oil a square 2-quart baking dish (an 8 1/2- by 8 1/2-inch Pyrex is perfect) and bring a shallow pan of water just to the boil and remove from the heat.  Arrange these two items...along with all the other components—on your workspace so that you have easy access to everything.   Add two of the noodles to the pan of hot water.  Spread a couple of spoonfuls of corn pesto in the bottom of the oiled dish.  (The layer of corn pesto on the bottom should be very more than a quarter of a cup.  You should have a cup and a half in total of the corn pesto/cream mixture...if you use a scant quarter cup on the bottom...and then a third cup in each layer, you should have a generous quarter cup left to spread on the top) You are now ready to build the lasagne:

Lift the noodles out of the pan. (They should not be soft or flexible at this're just giving them a head start by soaking them briefly—less than a minute.)  Let the excess water drip back in to the pan and arrange them in a single layer in the prepared baking dish.  Add a couple more noodles to the pan of hot water (to soak while you build the first layer).  Spread a third of the chard/corn mixture over the noodles in the lasagne pan. Scatter a third of the sausage over the chard.  

Daub a third of the ricotta over everything.  

Spread a third cup of the pesto over the ricotta (they will marble together a bit...this is fine).  Finally, add an ounce or so (about 1/4 cup) of the grated mozzarella.  

Repeat this process (beginning with the placement of the two noodles) 

two more times.  Finish with two more (soaked) noodles, the remainder of the pesto (spreading evenly) 

and a scattering of the remaining mozzarella (about 2 oz.).

Cover the pan with a piece of aluminum foil that has been brushed on the underside with olive oil (or sprayed with pan spray), tenting the foil slightly if possible so that it isn't touching the top of the lasagne.  Bake in a 375° oven until the mozzarella on top has just melted—about 20 to 25 minutes.  Uncover and continue to bake until the lasagne is bubbling around the edges and a skewer inserted in the center is hot (160° to 180°).  If the top is not browned to your liking, briefly run the lasagne under the broiler.  Let the lasagne rest for 10 to 15 minutes.  Cut with a sharp knife and serve.  Serves 4 to 6.

Saturday, July 9, 2016

Gina DePalma's Zucchini & Olive Oil Cake with Crunchy Lemon Glaze

I think I have mentioned before that one of the many reasons that I keep a food blog is an entirely selfish one. My work in food tends to be quite varied.... I prepare private dinners, teach classes, develop recipes...and I work on call for a friend. An unfortunate consequence of all of this interesting variety is that often weeks will go by before I make a recipe for a second or third time. Without regular repetition it can be easy to forget exactly how I did something for a particular recipe. (The fact that I really do cook seasonally...which makes it so that often I will go a year before making something again...doesn't help.) Keeping a blog has given me a written...and just as importantly, a photographic...memory bank of exactly how I made something. Being able to see a certain dish again...and read about what was going on in my head the first time I made it...helps me immensely—both privately and professionally.

Today's post falls into this "selfish" category. I have mentioned this cake...and linked to the original recipe (which I am sharing today, unchanged from the original)...on another occasion. So in some respects, it is a redundant post. But when I pulled out this recipe to make it again this year for my "Corn & Zucchini" class, my memory of the actual nuts and bolts of the recipe wasn't as clear as I would have liked (I really just remembered how much I liked the cake). I wanted to know, for example, exactly how finely I had grated the zucchini...and what I had meant by "finely chopped" walnuts. These terms are pretty specific...and I had a pretty good idea what they meant...but there is no guarantee that I will make the cake often enough to remember these things next time... So I took a picture.

In my defense, my reasons for writing a post are not entirely self-serving.  I know that the pictures will help others too.  Moreover, by posting it again, it will emphasize to visitors how really great this cake is. I think it is the best zucchini cake ever.  As I mentioned, I can claim no credit for the recipe.  It was developed by Gina DePalma (former pastry chef at Babbo) and adapted by David Lebovitz.  Unlike a lot of zucchini cakes that have a damp, slightly sponge-y and coarse texture, this one is moist (but not wet) and beautifully fine-grained.  And it tastes wonderful.  Not only did DePalma incorporate walnuts and lemon...two of my favorite zucchini companions in savory cooking, she added a healthy dose of spice (always a good idea in a squash cake—I'm convinced it's the spices that people love in pumpkin baked goods...).

You should definitely make plans to make this cake.  And since zucchini season is long and abundant, I'm certain you will be able to find an occasion sometime during the next couple of months for which it would be appropriate.  As a matter of fact, right now would be a fine occasion:  as a treat...for yourself.  The cake is large, so there will be plenty to share.  You can tell you family and friends that you made it for them.  Only you have to know that your reasons for making the cake were (almost) entirely selfish.       

Zucchini & Olive Oil Cake with Crunchy Lemon Glaze

1 c. (115g) walnuts, toasted
2 1/2 c. (280g) all-purpose flour
1 t. baking powder
1/2 t. baking soda
1 t. kosher salt
2 t. ground cinnamon
1 t. ground ginger
1/2 t. ground nutmeg
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 3/4 c. (350g) sugar
1 c. (200g) olive oil
2 t. vanilla extract
2 1/2 c. (300g) finely grated zucchini (from 340g/12oz. whole zucchini)

1/4 c. (55g) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 c. (65g) granulated sugar
1 1/4 c. (140g) confectioner’s sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease a 10-cup bundt pan (see note) with non-stick spray or butter, dust with flour, then tap out any excess.

Pulse the nuts in a food processor until finely chopped.  Set aside.  In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, and olive oil for 3 minutes on medium speed, until light and fluffy. Stop and scrape down the sides of the mixer, then beat in the vanilla.  Add the dry ingredients, scraping down the sides of the mixer bowl to make sure everything is mixed in well, then beat on medium speed for 30 seconds.  Stir in the chopped nuts and zucchini.

Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan, smooth the top, then bake the cake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake has begun to pull away from the sides of the pan.

During the last few minutes of the cake baking, make the glaze by whisking together the lemon juice, 1/3 cup (65g) granulated sugar, and powdered sugar.  Let the cake cool for 10 minutes, then carefully invert it onto a cooling rack. Brush the glaze over the cake with a pastry brush and let the cake cool completely.

Note: This cake can also be baked in two loaf pans.  You may need to reduce the baking time a little to compensate for the smaller pans.

(Recipe adapted by David Lebovitz from Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen by Gina DePalma)