Firm Polenta with a Medley of Spring Vegetables

I love soft polenta.  I make it often during the cooler months.  It is substantial and satisfying.....a perfect accompaniment to stews, braises and hearty vegetable ragouts.  I like firm polenta too (soft polenta that has been allowed to solidify)...but it isn't something I have been in the habit of preparing for my own weeknight table.  Firm polenta requires a bit of advance planning (something I don't do a lot of for weeknight meals).  On the other hand, the fact that firm polenta must be prepared ahead makes it perfect for a formal dinner...or a private event through my chef service....so I make it often for those kinds of occasions.

You can of course make both soft and firm at the same time—saving time and effort by preparing the foundation for a second meal while making the first.  I'm not sure why I haven't been in the habit of doing this since there is absolutely no extra effort involved in making a large batch of polenta as opposed to a small one.  It took having a rather substantial amount of extra polenta (destined to become firm for a formal dinner) to bring this rather obvious idea home to me.  Rather than throw away what wouldn't fit in the pan for my dinner, I scraped the extra into an oiled pie plate, spread it out into a thick disk and set it aside in the fridge.  As it turned out, I had enough firm polenta for two simple meals.  We enjoyed both immensely.

Because of that serendipitous extra, I have now added yet another "blank canvas"-style element (along with pasta, pizza, eggs, grain pilafs, etc.) to my rotation of weeknight meals.  It is equally delicious topped with a simple sauté of vegetables

Baked firm polenta with a sauté of  mushrooms and blanched
 asparagus with pine nuts and goat cheese

or a saucy stew-like preparation.  David Tanis even makes it into an impromptu "pizza" with melted cheese and fried sage.  The only trick is remembering to make extra whenever you make soft polenta.  And if you are person who isn't crazy about leftovers...or eating similar things two nights in a row...the firm is different enough from the soft that it won't feel like leftovers or the same thing.  In fact, you don't even have to eat it right away.  When made with water (instead of stock), firm polenta will easily keep for several days in the fridge.  We enjoyed the firm polenta so much I might even start making it occasionally just to have on hand—ready for a quick and simple meal.   

For each serving of firm polenta (depending on appetites) you will need to prepare 2 to 3 tablespoons of dry polenta—which will cook into portions of firm polenta weighing around 4 to 6 oz.  To make firm polenta, scrape the finished soft polenta into an oiled pan or plate and spread into a 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick round or oval (round if you want wedges of firm polenta...oval if you want random shapes or rectangular slabs). Then chill (cover it with plastic wrap once it's cold) until ready to use.  

To serve, use a sharp knife to cut it into portions and either pan fry it in a little olive oil or butter in a non-stick or cast iron pan...or bake it in an oiled pan (again, I like cast iron) in a hot (425° to 450°) oven.  You can also oil the polenta and grill it...which gives it a particularly nice look.  You can of course make your soft polenta plain, but you can also dress it up with a little cheese and/or some minced fresh herbs, if you like.

I served some of that first windfall of firm polenta with a medley of spring vegetables adapted from a recipe in Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Suppers.  It was so good, I made it again last week so I could share it here.   Madison serves hers on toast instead of polenta...and if you haven't had time to make polenta, I think toast would be wonderful.  I also think this particular medley would be fantastic served with fish.  Madison's medley is made with just spinach and asparagus, but I have added peas.  I love fresh peas....and they are a fantastic addition—adding sweetness and visual interest. 

The medley itself follows the simple formula I described in a post a couple of years ago.  If you like, you can follow the instructions in that post and make this medley by blanching the asparagus and peas ahead.  If you do this, make sure you save some of the blanching liquid to use when you finish the medley.  One of the things I love about this particular recipe is the pale green broth—flavored with nothing but spring onions, green garlic, the vegetables and olive oil....  It is astonishingly flavorful.

The recipe is obviously very flexible.  You can alter the combination of vegetables...and the serving size...as much as you like.  Just adjust the size of your pan accordingly...choosing a pan that will hold all the vegetables—not including the spinach—in a snug single layer.  I have written the recipe with quantities for one (it makes a super nice solo meal).  But if there are more of you, simply multiply the quantities to suit your number...and your appetites.

The firm polenta is terrific with the delicate vegetables of this spring medley.  It absorbs the light broth...and adds substance to an otherwise light dish.  That said, I find that firm polenta is somehow less heavy than its soft counterpart...which makes it much more appealing as the weather warms up. In fact, now that I've been reminded of how good firm polenta can be, I will probably make a point to occasionally make it during the warmer months.  I'm certain it will make a fantastic partner for the vibrant vegetable sautés and sauces of summer.      

 

Baked Polenta with Ricotta & a Medley of Spring Vegetables

For each person you will need:

1/2 T butter

1 t. olive oil, plus more for drizzling, finishing

1 small spring onion, white portion plus some of the green, trimmed, halved and finely sliced

1 clove (or up to a whole head, if you like) of green garlic, peeled and minced

Salt & pepper

1 4 to 6 oz. wedge/slice of cold polenta (see below)

2 to 2 1/2 oz. (trimmed weight) asparagus (from about 1/4 lb. untrimmed), well rinsed and cut in 2-inch lengths on the diagonal

About 1/2 cup water

1/4 c. shelled peas

a spoonful of whole milk ricotta (about 35 to 40 g.)

10 g. finely grated pecorino (a couple tablespoons)

Pinch of nutmeg

1 1/2 to 2 oz. (two small handfuls) stemmed young spinach (well-rinsed)

Place a cast skillet in a preheated 450° oven.

Melt the butter with the olive oil in a small sauté pan set over moderate heat.  Add the spring onion and garlic, along with a pinch of salt, and gently sweat until the onion has softened (about 5 minutes.)

While the onion cooks, brush the bottom (flat surface) of the polenta with olive oil and add to the hot skillet in the oven.  Brush the top with olive oil.  Place the pan in the oven.

When the onion is soft, add the asparagus and enough water to come about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up the sides of the asparagus (in my pan, this was about 1/4 c. water).  Season with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally until the asparagus is about 3/4 cooked, or "tender-crisp" (about 5 minutes).  Add the peas and bring back to a simmer...continuing to cook and adding more water if the water level dips below 1/4 of the way up the sides of the vegetables.  Cook until the asparagus and peas are tender....another 3 minutes after adding the peas.  Taste and correct the seasoning.

While the vegetables simmer, mix the ricotta with the pecorino and season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

When the peas are tender, the polenta should be hot.  Remove the pan from the oven and smear the top of the polenta with the ricotta mixture.  Set aside in a warm place while you finish the vegetables.

Add the spinach to the pan of vegetables a handful at a time, turning to coat in the vegetables and broth as you do.  Cook until the spinach is collapsed (and tender)—adding more water if you would like more vegetable broth.  Taste and correct the seasoning.  Stir in a drizzle of olive oil.

Transfer the ricotta-topped polenta to a serving plate and mound the vegetables on over all, allowing some to drape over the sides.  Pour any liquid remaining in the pan over and around. 

(Vegetable Medley adapted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen)

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Basic Polenta

1 c. Polenta (organic stone-ground, if available)
salt & pepper
3 T. unsalted butter

Bring a large pot of water to a simmer—this water will be used in the polenta and also as a bain-marie (double boiler) over which to cook the polenta. While the water is coming to a boil, place 1 t. salt in a 1 ½-to 2-qt. stainless bowl. When the pot of water comes to a boil, measure 3 cups of the water into the bowl with the salt. Using a whisk, stir the water into a whirlpool as you slowly pour in the polenta. Keep whisking in the same direction until the polenta is completely blended in and there are no lumps. Set the bowl over the simmering pot of water. Continue to whisk every few moments until you can see that the grains of polenta have begun to absorb the water and are suspended in the liquid and no longer settling in a mass at the bottom of the bowl. This should only take a few minutes. Cover the bowl with foil, sealing the edges securely. Cook for 1 ½ hours, keeping the water at a bare simmer. Occasionally uncover and stir the polenta with a rubber spatula—adding more hot water if the polenta becomes too stiff. Reseal the foil after each stirring. When finished, the polenta should be thick, soft & smooth and have no raw taste. It may be used immediately, made into firm polenta (see below) or held for up to 4 hours over steaming water. Add more salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the butter just before serving.

To make Firm polenta, spread the finished (buttered and seasoned) polenta in an oiled dish in a 1/2 to 3/4-inch thick round or oval.  Chill until firm.  Cover with plastic wrap.  Use within a week.  Makes 6 to 8 portions firm polenta.

(Method for Basic Polenta, adapted from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper.)

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Spring has Sprung ...in the Garden ...at the Farmers' Market ...on the Table

It is suddenly that busiest time of year for the gardener.  Although we probably still have a cold snap or two to go, the trend is finally fixed toward light ....and warmth....  The garden will not wait.  Any extra time I have is spent cleaning up the winter debris that is covering the insistent new growth and laying fresh mulch in preparation for spring planting and the heat of summer.  I work until I'm too tired to move.  But it is work that is also a pleasure.  Even though the pull of all the other commitments of life demands that I move as quickly as I can through the garden, I can't help but stop...  and stare...   and revel in the beauty that is unfolding around me.

The other sure sign of spring came yesterday morning: my first trip of the year to the farmers' market.  I almost always go the first weekend of April, but last weekend it was still really cold.  I preferred the warmth of my bed.  Besides, I knew there would be little (if anything) there.  I don't grow vegetables, but if the progress of my perennial garden is any indication, we are about three weeks behind where we would normally be in the growing season.

Yesterday though, after a week of warmth and a few days of working in the garden, I had to go.  As always, I was glad I did.  A few of the growers were there; it was so nice to get to say hello and see their familiar faces, back for another year.  The market is mostly plants at this point...it will be for some time to come...but even so, I came home with a few edibles:  local greens and a few spring onions.

In keeping with my own personal tradition, I incorporated some of these first few purchases into our dinner last night....sort of my way of celebrating the return of Spring and my return to the market.  This first meal is often just a simple salad...maybe with roasted vegetables...or a round of baked goat cheese.  And we could have had something like that.  But after a long day working in the garden, I needed something a bit more substantial.  Fortunately, one of the things I came home with was a bag of young Red Russian Kale...perfect for a quick braise with a few of the Spring onions.  To go with it, I made a stuffed chicken breast and soft polenta (food doesn't get much more substantial than polenta), into which I folded a sauté of some of my remaining frozen corn from last year's market.

I'm surprised to discover that I haven't shared this chicken recipe before....I have been making it for years.  It is from an old issue of Food & Wine. I was first introduced to the recipe by my friend Nancy when we were working at the Culinary Center together.  The recipe was originally written for pan-seared, skin-on, boneless breasts.  At The Culinary Center, we prepared it using bone-in, split breasts.  Instead of pan-searing, we would roast the stuffed breasts, removing the bone for a quick reheat before service.   In general, this is a great way to prepare a simple roast chicken breast (particularly for large volume cooking)—I use this method regularly at home.  But for some reason, when I make this particular dish at home, I prefer to go back to the original recipe.  If you are unable to purchase boneless breasts that still have the skin attached, simply purchase split breasts (on the bone) and remove the bone yourself.  Since the stuffing goes under the skin, the skin must be intact in order to prepare this recipe.

Removing the breast meat from the bone is an easy operation.  It is actually easier to do than to describe.  Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures to illustrate the process.  (Removing the bone takes two hands...and since this was a bit of a spur of the moment post, I didn't have anyone around to take pictures while I worked.)  Nevertheless, I want to take a stab at describing the process so that anyone who wants to try it will have a good place to start.  The most important thing is to remember that since the tip of the knife will always be between flesh and bone, you will avoid gouging into the flesh (which would waste some of the meat) if you always concentrate on gently pressing the flat side of the blade against the bone—basically using the bone to guide your cuts.  Begin by inserting the tip of your boning knife in between the flexible breast bone (if present...sometimes when the whole breast is split, the sternum will only remain attached to one side of the breast) and the flesh.  Run the tip of the knife along the length of the bone, using shallow, long strokes (don't forget to press against the breast bone as you cut), until the tip of the knife runs into the center portion of the rib-cage.  Then, lifting the flesh up as it is cut away from the bone, continue to slide the knife out and away from the breast bone (or where it was, if it is missing), always pressing the flat of the knife against the rib-cage and following its contour, until the flesh is completely released from the carcass.  Trim away any ragged edges of skin and flesh and you are done.  I encourage you to give this a try.  But if you would rather not, simply ask the butcher to do it for you.    

When I prepared our chicken last night, I did deviate in one significant way from the original recipe...and from the way we made it at The Culinary Center.  The original recipe called for a stuffing made of mascarpone.  At The Culinary Center we used soft goat cheese.  Over the years I have used both.  The mascarpone tends to melt into the sauté pan,  whereas the goat cheese remains in place under the skin.  I don't know what made me think of this particular recipe yesterday, but when I decided that this was how I wanted to prepare the chicken breast I had pre-salted the night before, it was too late (and I was too tired) to run to the store for goat cheese or mascarpone.  I did happen to have some whole milk ricotta on hand.  Since the combination of ricotta with greens of all kinds (chard...spinach...kale) is traditional...and delicious...I thought I would give it a try.  I'm happy to report that it worked beautifully.  

Our first market meal of the season was spontaneous, satisfying and delicious...just as it should be.  And as with the new growth in my garden, I hope it is a harbinger of the good things to come in the months ahead.

 Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto & Fresh Cheese

1/4 c. ricotta, mascarpone or soft goat cheese (about 2 oz.)

1/2 T. finely chopped fresh thyme, sage or rosemary

zest of half a lemon

salt & freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 lbs. boneless chicken breast halves, skin-on and first wing joint attached if possible

1 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto (about 2 slices), cut in such a way that it will fit under the skin of the breasts in a smooth single layer

Olive oil

Ingredients for half of a recipe--the breast pictured is very large--11 ounces
after removing the bone...plenty for two people

In a small bowl, combine the cheese, herbs, lemon zest and salt & pepper to taste.  Set aside. Gently slide your index finger under the skin of each chicken breast to loosen (but not detach) the skin and form a small pocket.  Slide a half slice of prosciutto under the skin of each breast.  Divide the cheese mixture evenly among the chicken breasts, carefully stuffing the mixture between the skin and the prosciutto.  Massage lightly to spread the cheese evenly over the entire breast.  The stuffed breasts may be refrigerated overnight.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.  Heat a large oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat.  Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper.  Add a tablespoon or so of oil to the hot pan (it should slide easily over the surface of the pan and should be almost smoking).  Add the chicken breasts skin-side down.  Cook, regulating the heat as necessary to maintain an active sizzle, until golden brown—about 2 to 3 minutes.  Turn the breasts over and transfer the pan to the preheated oven.  Roast until the breasts are just cooked through—about 8 to 10 minutes for small breasts, 15 or more for large.  Remove the chicken to a platter and let rest for a few minutes before serving. 

Resting

Depending on the size of the breasts, you may serve each person a whole breast, or slice the breasts and fan attractively on the plates.  Serves 4.

One large breast...sliced to serve two.

Notes: 

• If desired, prepare a quick pan sauce while the chicken rests. Drain off the excess fat and return the pan to the stove. Add a few tablespoons of water or some wine or stock (or a combination); over high heat, boil until the liquid has reduced to a few tablespoons, scraping with a wooden spoon to dissolve all of the browned bits. Serve as is, drizzled around the breasts, or add a squeeze of lemon juice and/or swirl in a bit of butter before serving. 
• Even if you are not able to stuff the breasts ahead, the flavor and texture of the chicken is markedly improved by taking the time to season them with salt the night before you plan on cooking them. 

(Recipe adapted from Food & Wine Magazine May 1997)

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