What's in Season?... Arugula

For the month of March, the illustration on my 2016 "Twelve Months of Fresh Food" calendar is a scattering of arugula leaves.  

And while there is no arugula growing in my part of the world (at least not in the garden) right now, it is in March that I really begin to be hungry for salad.  And arugula is almost always the green I reach for first when I want to make a salad.  From earliest spring...to late in the fall...arugula is a constant presence in my pantry.

Arugula has a friendly nuttiness and peppery bite.  The bite can be mild or quite strong...depending on the maturity of the plant and the weather (more mature plants and hotter weather produce hot, peppery arugula).  In early spring, arugula is delicious with asparagus, artichokes, peas, radishes and young root vegetables. During the summer, it is marvelous with broccoli, tomatoes, corn, summer squash, cucumbers and melons, peaches and berries as well as green and shelling beans.  Its flavorful presence is just the thing for fall fruits...especially figs, grapes and apples.   No matter the season, it is perfect with nuts of all kinds, salty and tangy cheeses, olives, cured meats, grains, lemon (and orange), avocadoes, potatoes and mushrooms.  It is a most versatile food.

And it needn't be limited to being just a salad green.  It can be used like an herb...folded into pastas...or vegetable ragouts...  It makes the best pesto imaginable (I happen to prefer it to basil pesto) and is delicious stirred into soup...tossed with pasta...or spread on a crostini, pizza, sandwich, or quesadilla.  No wonder I love it so.

Today, I am posting a new recipe for a delicious and simple salad...featuring (in addition to the arugula) blanched green beans, toasted hazelnuts and a fantastic orange vinaigrette.  The vinaigrette is particularly good with the arugula.  I posted a similar vinaigrette—with a reduced orange juice base—last spring.  If you have never reduced a liquid to a syrup before, you should check out that post.  I am posting the salad today accompanied by pan-seared salmon...but it was the hit of a recent wine-pairing class when served with sea scallops.  I also think it would be wonderful topped with a round of baked goat cheese. 

Since today's post is intended to be a celebration of arugula, I thought I would end with a picture montage of some of the recipes I have posted featuring arugula over the last six years (there have been dozens...  And yes, I have been keeping For Love of the Table for almost six years.  It is hard to believe....).  Enjoy!

Pasta with Arugula and Walnut Pesto and Summer Squash

Gemelli with Sugar Snap Peas, Mushrooms & Goat Cheese

Fettuccine with Corn Pesto, Arugula & Prosciutto

Pizza with Potatoes, Mushrooms & Arugula

Minestra Verdissima

Wild Rice Salad with Apples & Roast Chicken

Farro Salad with Broccoli and Green Olives

Quinoa with Golden Beets, Avocado & Arugula

Chicken Salad with Cantaloupe, Feta & Arugula

Potato Salad with Spring Herb Pesto & Peas

Asparagus & White Bean Salad with Arugula

Broccoli, Chickpeas & Arugula

Autumn Salad of Fresh Figs, Grapes, Arugula, Escarole & Mint

Spring Salad with Arugula, Mint, Beets & Asparagus

Citrus & Avocado Salad

Watermelon, Blueberries & Arugula

Cantaloupe, Blueberries & Arugula

Corn Cakes with Roasted Corn, Cherry Tomatoes, Arugula & Bacon

Salad of Haricot Verts, Arugula, Hazelnuts & Orange

with Pan-Seared Salmon

1 orange, scrubbed

1 lb. trimmed haricot verts, cut on a slight diagonal into 2-inch lengths

1/2 c.  (60 g) Hazelnuts, toasted, husked & very coarsely chopped

Four 4- to 6-ounce portions skinless salmon filet

Salt & Pepper

Vegetable or olive oil

1 recipe Orange Vinaigrette (below)

2 handfuls arugula (2 to 2 1/2 oz.)

Using a vegetable peeler, remove 5 or 6 strips of zest from the orange, being careful to avoid the bitter white pith...you will need about half of the orange.  Cut the strips lengthwise into a very fine julienne.  Set aside.

Bring a pan of salted water to a boil.  Add the haricots verts and cook until just tender.  While the haricots cook, place the zest in a bowl sieve and dip the sieve into the pot with the haricots (just far enough to submerge the zest) for 10 to 15 seconds.  Lift the sieve out and spread the zest on a paper towel.  When the beans are tender, drain and spread on kitchen towels.  Set aside to cool.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high to high heat.  While the pan heats, pat the salmon dry and season with salt and pepper.  Add enough oil to the pan to lightly coat the pan (the pan should be hot enough that the oil shimmers and disperses across the surface of the pan immediately).  Add the salmon to the pan, service-side down, and let cook undisturbed golden brown and crisp on the first side (about 2 minutes)—regulating the heat as necessary to maintain an active sizzle.  Carefully turn the filets over and continue to cook on the second side.  Cook the salmon a total of 7 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness.  I like mine to still be slightly translucent in the center, so I cook it for the lesser amount of time.  If you like, you may place the pan in a hot oven to finish the cooking after the salmon has been flipped to the second side.  Transfer the salmon to a plate and keep warm while you finish the salad.

While the fish cooks, place the room temperature beans, the zest and the hazelnuts in a large bowl.  Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with enough vinaigrette to coat.  Toss to combine.

When the salmon is ready, add the arugula and toss with the haricots. Taste and correct the seasoning.  Drizzle in more vinaigrette if the salad seems dry. 

Divide the salad among serving plates and top with the salmon.  Drizzle the salmon with some olive oil...or a bit of vinaigrette...if you like. 

Serves 4 as an entrée.

(Salad adapted from Ottolenghi the Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi)

Note:  This salad is also delicious with seared Sea scallops or Halibut.

Orange Vinaigrette:

2 T. Sherry vinegar

1 small shallot, finely diced (about 1 1/2 T.)

1/4 t. kosher salt

Juice of 1 Valencia Oranges (1/3 to 1/2 c.), reduced until syrupy

1/2 t. fennel seed, toasted and crushed

1/2 T. minced fresh tarragon

1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and shallot.  Let macerate for 10 to 15 minutes.  Add the salt, reduced orange juice, fennel seed and tarragon.  Gradually whisk in the oil, adding it in a thin stream.  Taste and correct the seasoning and balance.

Printable Version

Barley Risotto...with Mediterranean Flavors...and Mushrooms

A few years ago I devoted a couple of posts to making "risotto" from farro.  At the time, farro was a new grain to me. But the idea of making a non-rice grain into a creamy risotto-like dish was not new.  Years before I came across farro, we were making and serving a barley risotto at the restaurant where I worked.  I haven't really thought much about barley risotto in years, but this winter when I was putting together a slate of recipes for my class on grains, I decided I wanted to revisit that dish.

Both farro and barley make admirable stand-ins for Arborio (or Carnaroli) rice in risotto for a couple of reasons.  First, they both have a wide window within which they can continue to absorb liquid while still maintaining an "al dente" texture.  Secondly—and most importantly—when cooked, they exude enough starch to thicken any extra liquid that is present into a creamy, fluid sauce. 

Both barley and farro can be made into risotto using the exact same method that is used with rice:  by adding hot liquid a ladleful at a time while stirring regularly, until the grains are swollen, tender (but with texture), and suspended in a creamy liquid.  As with classic risotto, it is a process that requires almost constant attention from the cook.  Since the results are delicious, most people don't seem to mind the extra effort. 

But this labor intensive process is only one of the options when you make "risotto" with barley or farro.  For both of these grains you can just cook them as you normally would—by boiling in salted water or using the "pilaf method" (sautéing the grain in some fat before adding a measured amount of hot liquid, covering and cooking at the lowest heat until the liquid is absorbed).  To make "risotto" you simply add more liquid to the finished grain (or, add the cooled cooked grain to a pan with a small amount of simmering liquid), add butter...and then stir, stir, stir....until the grains of barley (or farro) are suspended in a creamy, fluid liquid.  This "finishing" process takes less than five minutes.  Nothing could be easier.  And the results are delicious. 

Bear in mind that no matter which of these methods you choose to use, you must use pearled barley.  The pearling process is what enables the barley to release its starch.  Whole barley (hulled or hull-less) will not release the starch needed to produce the final creamy sauce.    

The recipe I am posting today was inspired by that long ago dish we served at The American restaurant.  If memory serves, it was brought to us when Chef John Ash visited to teach a class.  It is filled with the vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean:  tangy sundried tomatoes, briny olives, and sharp capers.   I have no memory of how we prepped the barley before finishing it as a risotto, but I chose to prepare it with the pilaf method (with scallions and chicken stock) since this would add even more flavor.  To make the dish a bit more substantial (and appropriate for a light entrée) I decided to add some sautéed mushrooms.  I think they add just the right touch (I love mushrooms with barley), but you could leave them out if you prefer.  Either way, I think you will find this "risotto" to be very flavorful....and very satisfying.

Mediterranean Barley Risotto with Mushrooms

 

3 T. olive oil, divided

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, white & green kept separately

1 c. pearl barley (180 grams)

3 to 4 c. chicken stock, divided

Salt & freshly ground pepper

3 to 5 T. unsalted butter, divided

8 oz. crimini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 c. dry white wine

1/4 c. sun dried tomatoes (oil-packed), drained and thinly sliced

1/4 c. Kalamata olives, pitted & quartered

2 to 2 1/2 T. capers, rinsed

1/4 c. chopped flat leaf parsley

1/2 c. (1 1/2 oz.) finely grated Parmesan, plus a chunk for shaving for garnish

Heat 2 T. oil in a medium-sized heavy pot set over medium to medium high heat.  Add the white part of the scallions and cook until tender.  Add the barley and cook, stirring, until well coated with oil and sizzling—about 2 minutes.  Add 2 cups chicken stock along with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the barley is tender (but still has nice texture), 25 to 35 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes.  If using right away, set aside until ready to finish the risotto.  If working ahead, spread the barley on a rimmed baking sheet to cool.  Scrape into a container, cover and chill.  Bring to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.

To finish the risotto, warm the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and a tablespoon of butter in a wide, shallow pan (a 3 to 4 qt. braiser or sauteuse is perfect) set over medium hi heat.  When the butter melts and the foam subsides, add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are golden and any liquid given off has been absorbed or has evaporated.  Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Add garlic and cook briefly, until fragrant (do not let it burn). Add the white wine and reduce to a glaze.  Add a cup of the remaining stock and bring to a simmer.  Add the cooked barley along with the green portion of the scallions, the sundried tomatoes, the olives and the capers.  Bring to a simmer, stirring regularly.  Stir in 2 T. of the butter and as much of the remaining stock as you like to achieve the consistency you prefer.  The barley should be creamy and fluid, but not soupy.  Finish with Parmesan, parsley and the remaining butter (which will add to the creaminess of the dish), if you like.

Serves 4 as a main course and 6 to 8 as a side dish.

Variation:  To prepare the risotto without mushrooms, simply place the stock in the pan, add the cooked barley and heat through and finish as directed.

Printable Version

What's in Season?... Turnips

When I flipped to the February drawing for my 2016 "Twelve Months of Fresh Food" calendar I was surprised to see turnips.  

It is not that turnips are not in season right now...they are in fact in season in their capacity as a winter storage vegetable.  My surprise was mostly because in recent years I have come to think of them more often as a young, tender root from the farmers' market during the cooler early and waning days of the growing season.  In that capacity, they are delicious raw (in a salad)......or lightly braised in butter (as a vegetable side). 

                                   

But it was nice to be reminded of them as one of the wonderful root vegetables that make up the winter pantry.  In that role, their pleasantly bitter edge can add depth and complexity to winter soups and stews as well as vegetable purées, gratins and side dishes.   I was glad to have a reason to purchase some this month (we all get into our own little culinary ruts sometimes...). 

Like most storage vegetables, you have to be careful when you purchase them to make sure you don't get a hold of a specimen that has been improperly stored...or stored too long.  Storage turnips will almost always look a bit scuffed or marred...but they shouldn't be deeply scratched or gouged (they will decay rapidly where the skin has been broken).  They should be firm and heavy for their size as well.  If they feel light they will be dry and pithy or spongy.  Alice Waters in her book Chez Panisse Vegetables mentions that you should avoid storage turnips that have begun to re-sprout as they will have become woody.  I would imagine that they would also be excessively bitter at this stage. When you get them home, store them in an open plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator. 

For my winter turnip recipe I'm sharing a Spicy Moroccan Roasted Chicken dish.  The recipe is an adaptation of a Cornish Hen recipe that I have been making (and teaching) for years.  

I had a couple of reasons for changing it.  For one thing, I like Cornish Hens...but I love chicken thighs.  But more importantly, the chicken thigh version is a bit more streamlined...and my goal in posting this recipe is to encourage people to try turnips.  Having to truss, baste, carve, etc. might put people off.  I am including the adjustments for the Cornish Hen version in the notes at the bottom of the recipe though, for those who want to try it. 

In addition to chicken thighs, turnips and a lively blend of Moroccan spices (cumin, coriander, caraway, paprika and cayenne), this dish includes sweet winter squash and cipollini onions—both of which temper the heat of the spices...and any bitterness in the turnips...nicely.  I add more sweetness by serving it with a cinnamon scented couscous studded with golden raisins.  If you are in the mood for a lighter meal, a fluff of arugula dressed with lemon and olive oil would make a great side too.  If you have never liked...or never tried...turnips, you should give them a chance in this recipe.  They add great flavor...without being overpowering.

Once you've tried the turnips in this dish, you will probably want to try them in other ways.  You might sample them in a hearty and traditional Guinness stew...perfect for St. Patrick's Day (which is just around the corner)...or in a rich and creamy gratin with sweet potatoes and Yukon Gold potatoes.   Whether you try these...or some other....recipes, I think you will soon find that there are many ways to prepare this oft neglected vegetable of the winter months.

Moroccan-Spiced Chicken with Butternut Squash & Turnips

1 1/2 lbs. chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat (or use legs...or a mixture of thighs and legs)

About 2 t. kosher salt, divided

1 t. coriander seed
1 t. cumin seed

1/2 t. caraway seed

1 1/2 t. paprika

1/4 t. cayenne pepper

3 T. olive oil

Zest of one lemon

1 1/4 lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch chunks

3 medium turnips (about 10 to 12 oz.), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

6 oz. cipollini onions (8 to 12, depending on their size...look for 1 to 1 1/2 inch), peeled

Freshly ground black pepper

Coarsely chopped cilantro

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Plain yogurt to serve, optional

If time permits, salt the chicken 12 to 24 hours ahead.  Use up to 3/4 t. of kosher salt per pound of chicken...I find a teaspoon of kosher salt for 1 1/2 lbs of chicken to be about right.  Cover and refrigerate.

Preheat the oven to 450°. 

Place the spices in a dry sauté pan over medium-high heat, shaking occasionally, until fragrant.  Transfer to a plate to cool.  Grind in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.  (If whole spices are not available, just use ground spices.)  Combine the toasted spices with the paprika and cayenne in a small bowl with the olive oil and lemon zest; set aside. 

In a large bowl, toss the vegetables with a teaspoon of kosher salt and pepper to taste.  Pepper the chicken and add it to the bowl.  Drizzle the spicy oil over all and toss until everything is well coated.  A wide rubber spatula or your hands work great for this.  Spread the vegetables and chicken (skin side up) on a lightly oiled rimmed sheet pan, distributing everything evenly.   

Place the pan in the oven and roast, stirring the vegetables and basting the chicken with the pan juices two or three times as they roast.  Because all ovens are different, you will have to watch carefully to make sure that 450° is the right temperature for your oven.  You want everything to be cooking at an active sizzle.  If after 20 minutes nothing is happening, increase the temperature by 25°...if things are snapping and popping aggressively...or smoking, reduce the oven temperature by 25°.  Continue to roast until the thighs are cooked through (juices should run clear) and the vegetables are tender and golden brown—about 45 minutes.

Transfer the chicken and vegetables to a platter or individual serving plates and scatter the cilantro over all.  Serve with lemon wedges and a dollop of yogurt on the side, if desired.  Accompany with cinnamon and raisin couscous...or steamed basmati rice...or, for a lighter meal, serve with arugula dressed with lemon and olive oil.  Serves 4

Variation for Cornish Hens:  Replace the chicken thighs with two 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb. Cornish Hens.  Reduce the oil in the spice mixture by a tablespoon and add a tablespoon of honey and a tablespoon of lemon juice to the mixture.  Season the hens (12 to 24 hours ahead, if time).  Stuff a quarter of a lemon in each of the cavities and tie the legs together with cotton twine.  Toss the vegetables with salt and pepper, add the Cornish hens to the bowl and pour the spice mixture over all, tossing to coat everything thoroughly.  Place the hens and vegetables in a shallow baking dish just large enough to hold the hens and vegetables in a snug single layer.  Start the birds in a 475° oven.  Roast, basting the birds occasionally with the pan juices.  After 20 minutes or so (when the birds have begun to take on a deep color), reduce the oven temperature to 400° and add 1/2 cup of water to the roasting pan.  Continue to roast until the birds are fully cooked (juices should run clear) and the vegetables are tender and golden—another 20 to 30 minutes.  (If at any time the pan juices become dry, add more water.)  Keep the vegetables warm while you rest the birds (at least 10 minutes).  Cut the birds in half and serve one half per person.

Printable Version

Cornish Hen variation...

Cinnamon Couscous with Golden Raisins

1 c. quick-cooking couscous

1/2 t. kosher salt

1/4 t. cinnamon

2 T. unsalted butter

1 1/4 c. boiling water

1/2 c. golden raisins, plumped in boiling water and drained well

Place the couscous in a medium sized bowl and toss with the salt and cinnamon.  Add the butter.  Pour the boiling water over, give it a stir and cover with plastic wrap.  Let stand for 10 minutes.  Remove the plastic, add the raisins and fluff with a fork. Serve immediately.   Serves 4

(Couscous recipe adapted from One Good Dish by David Tanis)

Leftovers for lunch....

Classic Quiche Lorraine

I love quiche. From the first time my mother made it, I've been hooked. There's just something about it...with its creamy custard encased in a flaky crust...studded with salty and savory morsels... It manages to hit most of my favorite taste and texture buttons.

For some reason my mother never varied from Quiche Lorraine...that classic with nothing but egg custard, bacon and, more often than not, cheese. I, on the other hand, have branched way out from this original....adding to the custard fillings varying from just caramelized onions...to asparagus and Gruyère..to kale and ham....and beyond.... Quiche is one of my favorite blank canvases (right up there with pasta and pizza crust) upon which to improvise with the bounty of each season. 

The variety of possibility is probably why it has been years since I made that original favorite of my childhood. But recently, it came to mind when I was putting together some food to take to a friend. It struck me as just the thing for a "make ahead" weekend breakfast dish: bacon & eggs... bread... Perfect. All I needed to add was a fruit salad....and maybe some muffins or a quick bread (I think you should always have something sweet with your breakfast...). And as I was making it, suddenly I wanted to make another for myself. So I did. We had it for dinner...and then enjoyed the leftovers for lunch. It was even better than I remembered it.

The recipe I use is still the same one my mother used. It is from her 1955 copy of The Good Housekeeping Cookbook and is dubbed "Superb Swiss Cheese Pie". Quiche Lorraine is included as a subheading...but at the time, I imagine Quiche Lorraine was not widely enough known to warrant a stand-alone title. But, title aside, classic Quiche Lorraine it is. It even uses the classic French custard ratio of 2 eggs for every cup of cream. 

During my lifetime quiche has become standard American fare. It had become so popular and ubiquitous by the early eighties that when a satire about what constituted American manhood was published, it was called Real Men Don't Eat Quiche. (It would be interesting to consider what food would be substituted for quiche in the title of a similar book published in our current food climate....) Fortunately, we have come to the place today that—barring a dietary restriction of some kind—I think just about everyone enjoys quiche. And if it happens that you have never had this simple classic version of custard, bacon and cheese from the Lorraine, you should definitely give it a try. It makes a perfect breakfast... or lunch... or dinner.... 

Quiche Lorraine

1/2 lb. bacon, cut crosswise in 1/4-inch strips
4 oz. coarsely grated Emmental or Gruyère
4 large eggs
2 c. heavy cream (or 1 c. milk and 1 c. heavy cream)
3/4 t. salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of nutmeg

1 10- to 10 1/2-inch tart shell, blind baked (Pâte Brisée recipe below)

Place the bacon in a heavy sauté pan or skillet and render over medium-low heat until crisp...stirring regularly.  Remove to a plate lined with several layers of paper towels using a slotted spoon. 

Place the eggs in a medium-sized bowl and whisk briefly to break up. Whisk in the cream until smooth.  Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; set aside.

Build the quiche:  Place the baked tart shell on a baking sheet and scatter the bacon and cheese over the bottom of the crust.  Slowly pour the custard in. 

Be careful, all of the custard may not be necessary...any that overflows will burn when the quiche bakes.  Transfer the baking pan to a preheated 375° oven.

Bake the quiche until the filling is set (the tip of a knife slipped into the center should come out clean), slightly puffed and the surface is a light golden color—about 30 to 35 minutes.  Serves 8.

Printable Version

Pâte Brisée

(Savory Tart Dough)

1 2/3 c. all-purpose flour (190g)
1/2 t. salt
10 T. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces (142g)
3 to 5 T. ice water

Combine the flour and the salt in a medium-sized bowl. Rub the butter into the flour until the butter is in small pea-sized pieces. Drizzle 3 T. ice water over the flour/butter mixture. Using your hands, fluff the mixture until it begins to clump, adding more water if necessary. If, when you squeeze some of the mixture it holds together, the dough is finished. Turn the dough out onto a counter and form into a mound. Using the heel of your hand, gradually push all of the dough away from you in short forward strokes, flattening out the lumps. Continue until all of the dough is flat. Using a bench scraper, scrape the dough off the counter, forming it into a single clump as you do. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, pressing into a thick disk. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

To roll out, let the dough warm up for a moment or two. Butter a 10- to 10 1/2-inch removable-bottom tart pan and set it aside. Flour the work surface and the rolling pin. Begin rolling from the center of the dough outward. After each stroke, rotate the dough a quarter turn—always making sure that there is sufficient flour to keep the dough from sticking. Keep rolling and turning until you have a round of dough that is at least 13 inches in diameter and has a thickness of no more than 1/8–inch. Brush off the excess flour and fold the dough circle in half. Slide the outspread fingers of both hands under the dough and gently lift it and transfer it to the prepared tart pan. Unfold the dough and ease it into the pan being careful not to stretch it. Cut the dough off flush with the edge of the pan by pressing gently against the edge. Chill the shell for at least 1/2 hour.

To blind bake: Line the pastry with aluminum foil (dull side out) or parchment paper, pressing it into the corners and edges. Add a layer of pie weights or dried beans. Bake in a 400° oven for 25 to 30 minutes, pressing down on the weights occasionally with an oven mitt if it begins to puff up. When the pastry colors on the edges and is baked through, remove the foil and weights and continue baking until the pastry turns a golden brown...another 3 to 5 minutes.  Let cool before filling.

Homemade Pop-Tarts

For many years I have wanted to include homemade "Pop-Tarts" in a baking class.  This didn't seem like it would be a difficult thing to do, recipes for a homemade version of this processed American breakfast treat abound.  Furthermore, although they were not the sort of thing my mother allowed in the house on a regular basis when I was growing up, I loved them and maintained a taste for them far into my early adult years.  I'm not quite sure when they disappeared from my cupboard, but even so they have continued to hold a fond spot in my taste memory.  Last winter I finally decided to add them to an updated version of my breakfast breads class.

After committing to teach them, I went out and purchased a box...to refresh my memory....  I hadn't had a "real" Pop-Tart in years and I figured if I was going to be making them I should at least have the "original" in mind.  I admit I was astonished by how much I disliked them.  All I can say is that tastes change.  (I don't really think the Pop-Tart has changed).  I found them to be bland and flavorless...  But, I had already pledged to make them in a class, so I decided to make the Pop-Tart of my memory...a sweet, cookie-like pastry enveloping a fruity filling—more of a jam filled giant cookie really, than a pastry—basically what a Pop-Tart was meant to be.

I mentioned at the first that recipes for Pop-Tarts seemed to abound...in the blogosphere...in cookbooks...    But when I actually got down to the task of looking at the recipes that were available, I found that there was really only one recipe.  Everyone was using pie dough (pâte brisée).  In fact, most were using the exact same recipe for pie dough.  This, in my opinion, is all wrong.  If you have ever tasted a Pop-Tart, you will know that the "pastry" is not a flaky pastry at all...it is much more similar to what the French call sablé and what Americans call a sugar cookie crust.   It should be tender and crumbly...not flaky.

So, I set about to find a recipe for a tender and crumbly, cookie-like crust for my Pop-Tarts.  I finally settled on a variation of a classic Eastern European sweet dough that is often dubbed 3-2-1 dough—so called because it is made up of 300 g. flour, 200 g. butter and 100 g. sugar.  The liquid is usually simply 1 whole egg, with the possible addition of a small amount of cold water to help bring the dough together.   In testing the recipe for Pop-Tarts, I tried this original version, but was unhappy with the way the dough puffed when made with a whole egg.  I used egg yolks and heavy cream instead.  (My recipe is adapted from Kaffeehaus by Rick Rodgers.)

In my final version of the crust, I used half cake flour and half all purpose flour.  The purpose of this is to recreate the lower protein percentage of pastry flour—which is about 9%.  I would not recommend using all all-purpose flour to make this dough.  The resulting tarts are a bit hard and heavy.  I would also not recommend using all cake flour as the tarts are too fragile.  If you keep pastry flour on hand (I do not), by all means, feel free to use it.

My insistence on the types of flour you should use might lead you to believe that these tarts are a bit persnickety.  And the fact of the matter is, they are.  In the course of making many batches of them I discovered that they had a disconcerting tendency to spring a leak in the oven.  When made with the oft-used pie crust-style crust, the jam leaks out the sides (at the seams).  If you look around at some of the bloggers who have made jam filled Pop-Tarts, you will see that there is almost always jam all over the baking sheets.

Small pop-tarts tend to crack and ooze in the oven...

...but it's nothing that a little frosting won't fix.

While my 3-2-1 dough tarts didn't leak out the sides, they occasionally did split on top.  If you are going to frost the Pop-Tarts, this is not an issue at all.  But if you are not, then you don't want them to burst.  In the end, I discovered a list of conditions under which they will not split...and conditions under which they almost always will.  I have listed these in the recipe and the notes at the bottom of the recipe.  It is worth noting that one of the reasons for my preference for an all purpose and cake flour blend was that all of one or the other seemed to create conditions under which the tarts wanted to split open.

There are of course fillings for Pop-Tarts other than jam.  The most popular seems to be brown sugar-cinnamon...probably because it never splits or oozes.  Brown sugar-cinnamon was my favorite flavor of the commercial varieties, but I was never able to get the homemade filling adjusted to my liking.  One of my favorite fillings is Nutella....and I have a suspicion that frangipane or ganache would be delicious too (although I never tried either of these).  Nutella, by the way, never oozes in the oven....

You may be wondering if my homemade Pop-Tarts will stand up to the toaster.  I'll be honest and admit that I never bothered to toast the commercial ones...I always ate them straight out of the little silver bag...but I did test my homemade ones in the toaster.  I found that if they have not cracked...and have not been frosted...they are just sturdy enough to take a quick warm up in the toaster.   They should not be toasted if they have been frosted since the powdered sugar frosting will melt (and most likely drip) in the toaster.   

Because I was testing my Pop-Tarts around Valentine's Day I decided to make a few Pop-Tarts in the shape of a heart.  As it turns out, this has become my favorite way to make them.  These days, Pop-Tarts seem a bit too sweet for breakfast.  They are far more suited to an afternoon snack with a cup of coffee...or tea....and for this purpose the traditional size seems a bit large.  Moreover, the hearts make an extra special treat to give in honor of the day.  Individually wrapped with a festive bow, they can be given to a friend...or tucked in a briefcase or lunch box.  They are a simple and sweet way to tell someone you love that they are special to you. 

“Pop-Tarts”

150 g. all-purpose flour (1 1/4 c.)

150 g. cake flour (1 1/2 c., sifted)

100 g. sugar (1/2 c.)

1/2 t. salt

200 g. unsalted butter (14 T.), at a cool room temperature—should be malleable but not super soft

2 egg yolks

30 g. heavy cream (2 T.)

1 egg white, beaten until broken up and frothy

3/4  to 1 c. well-chilled jam (choose a good quality all fruit jam—jams made with sugar tend to cause the Pop-Tart to rupture during baking)

1 or 2 recipes of powdered sugar glaze, optional

Ingredients for half of a recipe...

Combine the first four ingredients and whisk to blend.  Cut the butter into 1/4-inch slices and add, tossing with the dry ingredients to coat.  Rub the butter (preferably using a stand mixer, but you may also use your hands) into the dry ingredients until the mixture looks like coarse meal 

and holds together when squeezed tightly

(the “clump” produced will immediately fall apart into “meal” if lightly pressed).  

Combine the yolks and cream and drizzle over the butter-flour mixture.  If working by hand, fluff with your fingers until clumps form, then turn out onto a lightly floured counter and knead just until the dough comes together.  If using the stand mixer, run on low/med-low until the mixture comes together into clumps.  

Turn out of the mixer bowl and knead once or twice to bring it together.  If the room is cool, the dough will be firm, but malleable and may be used right away.  If the room is warm, chill until cool and firm….but not rock hard.  If the dough has been made ahead and chilled and is rock hard, let it sit at room temperature until it is malleable.

Working with a third of the dough, roll out the dough into a large, thin (scant 1/8-inch) 

rectangle that is at least 8-inches by 12-inches.  It will probably be larger than this….it is important that it not be too thick.  Brush off the excess flour and using a pastry wheel, trim the dough to the aforementioned 8-inches by 12-inches.  Cut this large rectangle into eight 4- by 3-inch rectangles.  Take half of the remaining dough and press the scraps into this fresh piece.  Roll the resulting chunk of dough out as for the first third.  Repeat with the remaining piece of dough combined with the scraps from the second rolling.  If you have a lot of dough left, roll it out and cut as many 3- by 4-inch rectangles as possible.  You will have anywhere from 24 to 28 rectangles, depending on how thin you rolled the dough.

Half of the rectangles will be “bottoms” and half will be “tops”.  Spread the bottoms on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Prick the tops in a decorative fashion with a fork.  Brush the bottoms with the egg white.  

Place a level tablespoonful of jam on each bottom and use a small spatula (or your fingers) to spread the jam out to within a scant half inch of the edges.  

One at a time, carefully lay the tops over the jam-covered bottoms and press evenly to seal. 

If you like, use a chef’s knife or pastry wheel to trim the pastries so that they are uniform and even. 

Transfer the sheet pan of sealed and trimmed pastries to the freezer and freeze until hard all the way through—at least an hour.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°.  Place 4 to 6 pastries at a time on room temperature, parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing evenly (you don’t want to crowd the sheets).   Bake until the pastries are just beginning to turn golden brown on the edges and the tops are set—about 20 minutes, rotating the pan from front to back, half way through the baking time. Briefly cool on the baking sheets before transferring to wire racks to cool completely. 

If you like, when the Pop-Tarts are cool, frost or drizzle with powdered sugar glaze.  Makes 12 to 14 Pop-Tarts.

Powdered sugar glaze:  Place 1 cup (115 g.) powdered sugar in a small bowl.  Add 4 t. of milk and 1/2 t. of lemon juice and mix until smooth.  You may replace the lemon with vanilla…but I found this too be a bit too sweet for my taste.

Notes & Variations:

• The pastry is easy to work with if your room is cool. If you are working in a warm room, you will have to keep any portion of dough that you aren’t working with in the refrigerator to keep it cool. 
• Occasionally the tarts will crack on top when baking. If this happens, once they are cool, simply frost with the powdered sugar glaze to cover up the fissure. While not perfect, they still taste great. It was my experience that red fruits like strawberries and plums tended to cause the tarts to crack most often. Blueberry on the other hand didn’t tend to act this way. Nutella and other paste like fillings will not crack or ooze at all. Baking the tarts from frozen discourages cracking. 
• You can of course make Pop-Tarts in any shape or size you like.  A good size for a "mini" Pop-Tart is 2 1/2- by 3-inches.  You will need a level half tablespoon of jam for this size. For my heart shaped Pop-Tarts, I used a cutter that measures 3 1/2-inches across.  This holds 1 1/2 to 2 level teaspoons of jam. These smaller tarts only need to bake for about 15 to 16 minutes. Be warned that the mini Pop-Tart (when made with jam) will split and ooze about 75% of the time. The heart almost always oozes a bit. But in both cases, frosting covers the fissure so that no one but you will be the wiser. One recipe makes about 18 to 20 hearts or mini Pop-Tarts.

Mini Pop-Tarts

3 1/2-inch heart cutter

• The recipe halves very neatly...to make just 6 or 7 regular Pop-Tarts or 8 to 10 mini Pop-Tarts or hearts. 
• My oven has unusually strong bottom heat, so when I bake these I use insulated baking sheets. If you have a similar problem and don’t have insulated sheets, simply stack one baking sheet on top of another to create an insulated-style sheet.

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