Showing posts with label Pineapple. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pineapple. Show all posts

Sunday, September 27, 2020

Piña Colada Cupcakes




It has been a while since my last post (more than a month!).  I’m guessing that no one is surprised by this.  I think life has been pretty crazy for everyone this year.  The main reason I mention it is that I want to assure people who have been reading my blog for a long time that I’m still here…and I’m not planning on going anywhere.  I just haven’t been able to get to my blog as much as I had wanted to this year. 

As is the case with so many in my profession, a lot of my normal avenues of work have disappeared.  One would think that this would give me more time for the blog.  But in order to stay afloat I have found myself pivoting…and reinventing…and creating work where ever and however I can.  All of this takes up a lot of mental energy that I might normally devote to my blog.

As unfortunate as all of this has been, good things have been coming out of it.  Many of you know that one of the first things I did in the early days of the pandemic was to start teaching online classes through an olive oil/kitchen store called Olive Tree.  I have continued with these classes and will be doing more through the fall and holidays.  They are low-key, fun and interactive.  If you like online classes, you should check them out.

In July I started preparing curbside pick up dinners through Olive Tree.  We have aimed for simple, seasonal and accessible menus. It has been a pleasure to cook for people again and these meals will also continue for the foreseeable future.

Today I am sharing the recipe for the dessert I served as part of my September dinner.  The dinner fell on the last weekend of summer and I wanted it to have a beach vacation kind of feel to it.  I thought the dessert was perfect for the occasion:  Piña Colada Cupcakes (it’s hard to get more beach vacation than a Piña Colada!)

I was going to use the recipe that we use occasionally in my friend Nancy’s bakeshop to make miniature cupcakes.  It is a nice reliable recipe that hits all the right Piña Colada notes:  pineapple…coconut…Malibu rum…and a rich and creamy finish courtesy of fluffy cream cheese frosting.  But when I made them in my giant cupcake liners they didn’t turn out right.  They were kind of damp and heavy.  For whatever reason, cake recipes that work in one pan size sometimes don’t work in another (this can be due to a needed adjustment in the quantity of leavener to account for the different pan size…although, in this case, I think it might have been my oven…which I am still getting used to…).  However, it doesn’t happen often enough to prepare me for the pan of cake pucks that I pulled out of the oven.  To make matters worse, the dinner was only about a week and a half away…and the menu had been published.  I had to come up with something pretty quickly. 

I looked around a bit on line for a likely recipe, but none of those that I saw had all the flavor components of the original recipe that I liked so much (most didn’t include Malibu).  I was also not really in the mood to try a bunch of recipes from unknown and untried sources.  In the end I decided to take one of my tried and true sour cream cake formulas and alter it to include the flavors I wanted.  I chose a sour cream cake base because sour cream has almost as high of a fat content as coconut milk and I thought that by subbing coconut milk for some of the sour cream…and then reducing the fat by using Malibu and pineapple juice to make up the rest of the “liquid”…that I would have a recipe that performed in basically the same manner as the sour cream cake. 

And in just one try, it did.  My insty Piña Colada Cupcake recipe had everything I had originally planned on—the flavors of a Piña Colada in a rich, moist, fine-grained miniature cake.  Crowned with a generous swirl of Malibu spiked cream cheese frosting and a shower of toasted coconut, they were the perfect conclusion to a South of the Border menu. 

So if you are still not ready for summer to end…  Or you didn’t get to take your summer vacation this year….  You should whip up a batch of these cupcakes.  You’ll have a miniature summer vacation on a plate.  And since these cupcakes freeze beautifully (with or without the frosting), you can make a batch to enjoy some now…and load the rest into the freezer…providing a stash of tropical dessert vacations to be enjoyed during the cold and dark months ahead.



Piña Colada Cupcakes

200 g. (1 3/4 c.) all-purpose flour
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. baking soda
1 t. baking powder
121 g. (1/2 c.) coconut milk
28 g. (2 T.) Malibu rum
56 g. (1/4 c.) pineapple juice (from can of crushed pineapple)
90 g. (1/2 c.) very well drained crushed pineapple (see note)
75 g. (3/4 c.) sweetened coconut
114 g. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
200 g. (1 c.) sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
1/2 t. vanilla
Cream Cheese Frosting
Toasted Coconut 

Line a 12 cup standard muffin tin with 10 tulip style muffin liners, leaving the center 2 muffin cups empty. (In my limited experience with the tulip liners, if you try to bake 12 large cupcakes in a standard muffin pan, the ones in the center will not bake at the same rate as the ones on the edge).  Set aside.  Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

Combine the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda in a small bowl.  Whisk to blend.  In a measuring cup, combine the coconut milk, Malibu and pineapple juice.   In another bowl, combine the crushed pineapple and coconut, fluffing until the coconut and pineapple are uniformly combined. 

Cream the butter and sugar until very light and fluffy (about 5 minutes using a stand mixer).  Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides after each addition.  Beat in the vanilla. 

Fold in the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the liquids in two additions.  Add the pineapple and coconut when the final mixture of dry ingredients is almost fully incorporated, 

continuing to mix just until the batter is homogenous.

Using a large ice cream scoop, divide the batter among the muffin liners.  (Each cupcake should weigh 95 grams.)

Transfer to the preheated oven and bake until golden and springy and a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean—about 22 to 25 minutes.

Cool the cupcakes completely before topping with 50 grams of cream cheese frosting each.  Garnish with a little toasted coconut.  Makes 10 large cupcakes.

Notes:

  • Drain the crushed pineapple well: Place the contents of the can of pineapple in a sieve and us a rubber spatula or ladle to squeeze out most of the juice. A 20 oz. can of crushed pineapple in juice (not heavy syrup) will yield 8 oz. of well-drained/squeezed pineapple (about 1 1/4 c.) and 12 oz. of juice (1 1/2 c.).
  • I used “Tulip” style muffin liners in the 4 oz. size for these cupcakes. At this size the recipe produces 10 cupcakes. I assume you could make them in standard size muffin liners, but you will obviously need to use less batter per muffin (60 to 65 g)…which will make 15 to 16 cupcakes.
  • Use full fat coconut milk. I don’t know how the recipe would perform with the low fat version. 

Cream Cheese Frosting

6 oz./1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 lb. (3 cups) powdered sugar
1/2 T. Malibu
8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature and cut into 8 cubes

Place the butter, powdered sugar and Malibu in a mixing bowl.  Using the paddle attachment, mix on the lowest setting until the powdered sugar is mostly absorbed.  Increase the speed to high and beat for 2 or 3 minutes, or until very light and fluffy.  Scrape down the bowl with a rubber spatula.  Beat again on high, adding the cream cheese with the machine running.  Beat just until the cream cheese has been smoothly absorbed. (Overbeating cream cheese frosting can cause it to become too soft.)  Makes enough frosting to generously frost 12 large cupcakes.

Printable Version



Thursday, March 27, 2014

A Fresh Take on an Old Favorite--Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake



Yesterday I taught one of my favorite classes—Classic Home-style Desserts. All of the recipes in this class satisfy my craving for the simple homemade—or classic diner-style—desserts of my childhood: spicy gingerbread, jam-filled sugar cookies, coconut cream pie, butterscotch custard, and pineapple upside-down cake. I have already posted most of these recipes. Today I thought I would share my newly re-worked recipe for pineapple upside-down cake. I have been making and teaching this cake for years. Recently however I began to find fault with it. It was very good...but had what I considered to be a few flaws.

The cake portion of a pineapple upside-down cake can be made with almost any simple yellow butter cake.  In its original form the cake was made with canned pineapple rings so it is not uncommon to find older recipes that incorporate some of the canned juice in the batter.   Alice Waters (in her book Chez Panisse Fruit) uses a half recipe of the classic 1-2-3-4 butter cake (1 cup butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 cups flour and 4 eggs).  For years I used a buttermilk version of this cake in my upside-down cake. It is a fine, basic butter cake.  Unfortunately it is so light and tender that it isn't always successful in an upside-down cake.  It can be a bit crumb-y...wanting to tear and fall apart under the weight of the pineapple.  Cutting neat slices can be difficult.  It also tends to dry out rapidly (this particular cake really does need to be covered with frosting), making for a cake that should be eaten within a few hours of being baked—which is impractical most of the time...and compounds its tendency to crumble.

As I thought about modifying my recipe it occurred to me that what I really wanted was a sour cream-based butter cake.  Using sour cream will retain the flavor profile of the buttermilk cake, and at the same time will produce a tender but firm cake...one that slices neatly and cleanly.  


As a bonus, the sour cream cake will be a bit richer due to the increased percentage of butterfat.  All of this makes for a perfect match for the syrup-y pineapple topping.  Rose Beranbaum in her book The Cake Bible uses a sour cream cake.  And as it turns out, my favorite sour cream cake (that I use in my pear and walnut-topped streusel coffee cake) was originally adapted from Dorie Greenspan's recipe for Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake (published in Baking with Julia).  I don't know why I haven't been using this cake all along.     

Not only is the sour cream version of this cake better when it is fresh, like all sour cream cakes, it keeps well too.  It is still delicious the day after it is made, and is moist enough to withstand a brief reheat (since pineapple upside-down cake really is best when it's warm).  If you have leftovers after that, simply freeze them.   Cut the remaining cake into individual portions, wrap them and place in a Tupperware or a Zip-lock freezer bag and freeze.  These slices are great to have on hand for a bite with afternoon tea or coffee...and I can say from personal experience that they  make a pretty fine breakfast.   

  
In one way—and it is significant—this cake is quite different from the upside-down cakes of my childhood.  I use fresh pineapple.  You can use canned...and your cake will still be good...but fresh pineapple makes a superior cake in every way.  Since it hasn't been subjected to the canning process, the slices of pineapple are still loaded with all of their juice and flavor.  There is no need to incorporate any juice in the batter (as in older recipes) since the juice inherent in the fresh pineapple will permeate and perfume the cake as it bakes.  Furthermore, using fresh pineapple will allow you to slice the fruit in such a way that there are no gaps in the topping (as from the holes in canned pineapple slices), necessitating the addition of traditional foreign elements like prunes, pecans or—heaven forbid—maraschino cherries (who thought of that?). 

The fresh pineapple is very easy to prepare.  Lay the pineapple on its side


and slice off the top and the bottom.  Then, stand the pineapple on end and slice away the rind (in much the same way that you would slice the rind away from a piece of citrus fruit).  If there are any especially deep "eyes", just gouge them out with the tip of a paring knife.  Cut the pineapple straight down through the core into quarters.  Slice the core away from each quarter.  


You will need two of the quarters for the cake (slice or dice the other two and put them in a Tupperware for fruit salads or snacking).  Lay the quarters down on their sides and slice cross-wise into scant 1/4-inch thick slices.  


These slices are then shingled in a circle around the perimeter of the pan and then shingled attractively to fill in the center. 


This manner of preparing the pineapple is the one thing I retained from my original cake.  I have always loved it.  Like the original cake itself, it was inspired by Alice Waters' recipe.  Moreover, it was perfect just the way it was.  I am so pleased with my new version of this old favorite.  Now, not only is the topping impressively beautiful, it is supported by a correspondingly delicious cake. 



Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake 

Pineapple Topping:
4 T. unsalted butter
3/4 c. brown sugar
half of a fresh pineapple, split lengthwise, cored, peeled and sliced crosswise into scant 1/4-inch thick slices (you will need a scant pound of trimmed pineapple slices)

In a 10-inch cast iron skillet set over low heat, melt the butter.  Add the sugar, increase the heat to medium and stir until the sugar has melted into the butter.  Remove from the heat.  Arrange as many of the pineapple slices as will fit in an overlapping circle around the edge of the pan (overlap the narrow portion of each successive pineapple slice over the wider side of the previous slice).  Arrange as many of the remaining slices as will fit in an overlapping, decorative fashion in the center.  Set aside. 


Cake:
1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour (200 g.)
1/2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. baking soda
3/4 t. salt
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 c. sugar (200 g.)
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 1/2 t. vanilla
1 c. sour cream (242 g.)

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Set aside. 

Cream the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy—this will take several minutes at medium-high speed using the paddle attachment.  Stop the mixer once or twice to scrape down the sides.  Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides before each addition.  Beat in the vanilla; scrape down the sides of the bowl.  Fold in the dry ingredients in 3 additions alternately with the sour cream, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.

Spread the batter evenly over the pineapple in the prepared pan. 


Bake in a 350° oven until the cake is springy to the touch, has begun to pull away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean—about 40 to 50 minutes.  Let the cake rest for 5 minutes in the pan.  


Carefully run a small, thin spatula around the edge of the pan to make sure the cake isn't stuck to the sides.  Place a cake plate upside down on top of the skillet and holding the cake plate firmly to the skillet, flip the cake over.  Carefully lift the skillet away.  If any fruit sticks to the pan, simply tuck it back onto the top of the cake.

Cool at least an hour before serving.  Cut the cake with a long, thin bladed slicing knife, using a gentle back and forth sawing motion to cut through the pineapple. 

Makes one 10-inch cake, serving 10 to 12.

(Topping from Chez Panisse Fruit by Alice Waters; Cake adapted from Baking with Julia by Dorie Greenspan)