Last Sunday we woke up to what seemed like the
umpteenth day in a row of gray skies. I
love gray days...but they had been around for so long at that point that even I
was tired of them. I just wanted to hole
up in the house with a book....and put on a big pot of soup for dinner. I didn't even want to go to the store, so
whatever soup I made had to be something that could be made with things I had
on hand.
Fortunately, my pantry is well-stocked
with winter storage vegetables from my famers' market right now. Cabbage, turnips, sweet potatoes, winter
squash, onions, garlic, leeks... Not to
mention my regular staples of cured meats (bacon/pancetta,
prosciutto/ham)....and a couple varieties of dried beans. I even had some stock on hand. (Although, I am not afraid to make my soups
with water, so lack of stock would not have been a deal breaker...I would have just added more onion and/or leek to the soup.) Knowing I had
the makings of soup on hand I decided to put some beans on to soak (using my
modified quick soak method) and wait until later in the day to think about
exactly what kind of soup I was going to make.
As
I considered what to make, the presence of the cabbage and dried beans in my
stash put me in mind of a classic hearty soup-stew from the Southwest
corner of France (the Landes, the Béarn and the Pyrénées) called Garbure. In addition
to cabbage and beans it typically includes one of the famed preserved meats of
the region—duck, goose or pork confit, along with the gelatinous broth produced
by the confit process (sometimes called "duck/goose jelly"). Unfortunately I don't live in the south of
France so these things aren't to be found in my working pantry. But rich meats and broths do not have to be
included in a Garbure—there are many
versions that are made with a simple broth or even a combination of water and
broth. The real hallmark of Garbure is the cabbage.
The remaining
vegetables that are included in the soup are those that would be abundant on
the farm during the winter months—leeks, onions, potatoes, turnips and carrots. If you shop at your Farmers' market, these
will be the things you will have too.
Traditional
versions of Garbure are said to be so
thick that a wooden spoon or a ladle will stand erect when thrust into the
center of the soup. This thick mixture is then ladled into individual bowls
over slabs of brown bread (in much the same way Americans sometimes serve Ham
& Bean soup ladled over a chunk of cornbread or a split biscuit).
The soup I
made for our dinner was much lighter and broth-y than these traditional Garbures. I didn't add any starchy white potatoes,
which tends to thicken a soup (and is particularly noticeable in successive
reheats). Furthermore, I added a higher
proportion of liquids than is probably typical.
The vegetables
you use when you make Garbure are up
to you...as long as they are winter vegetables.
I liked the idea of an all white/cream/pale yellow/pale green soup, so I
didn't include any carrots...or orange sweet potatoes or winter squash. All of these would be at home in this soup,
but I happened to have some white sweet potatoes (Bonita) from my market, so I
chose to use them and forged ahead with the idea of a monochromatic soup. Potatoes would obviously have been fine, but
as mentioned above they add thickness, and I really wanted a lighter soup. I also added leeks and turnips (some lovely
Goldball turnips...but classic white, purple top turnips would be fine). I
could have included celery—adding them to the soup with the leeks and
onions—but just chose not to.
As you can
see, this is a homey, flexible soup. For
the given quantity of cabbage and beans, four or five cups of additional
vegetables is about right. Water/stock/bean
cooking liquid can then be added to achieve the body and thickness that you
prefer.
After I made my
soup I realized that it would make a perfect post-Thanksgiving soup... if you
happened to be the one who roasted the bird.
Chunks of dark meat...along with a dose of any of the salty pan
drippings left from the roasting process...would make fantastic stand-ins for
the traditional duck or goose confit and accompanying "jelly."
Unfortunately, it didn't fall to me to roast the turkey this year. But I know it would be delicious, so I will
have to keep it in mind for the next time it is my turn to host the big
meal. Cold, gray days...perfect for
soup...are never in short supply in late November.
Cabbage
& White Bean Soup with Root Vegetables
2/3
cup (about 4 1/2 to 5 oz.) dried great northern beans, soaked (overnight or
with quick soak method)
olive
oil
2
cloves garlic, peeled
Several
sprigs thyme
1
to 2 T. olive oil
2
oz. bacon (or salt pork), cut in a 1/4-inch dice
1
large or 2 small leeks—white and pale green parts only, halved, well-rinsed and
cut in a 1/3-to 1/2-inch dice (about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups)
2
cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced cross-wise
1/2
medium onion, diced (1 cup)
2/3
lb. turnip, peeled and cut in a 1/3- to 1/2-inch dice (2 cups)
2/3
lb. sweet potato (a "white" variety, if available), peeled and cut in
a 1/3- to 1/2-inch dice (2 cups)
3/4
lb. wedge of cabbage, cored and cut into a rough 1/2-inch dice (3 cups)
4
c. Chicken Stock
2
c. Water
Olive
oil
Finely
minced flat leaf parsley
Drain and rinse the beans. Place them in a
large saucepan and cover with fresh water by 2 inches. Bring to a
boil. Lower the heat and skim off the foam that has risen to the
surface. Add a generous drizzle of olive oil, the garlic and thyme.
Cook the beans at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beans are
tender. Or, place the soaked, drained beans in a shallow gratin with the
garlic and thyme. Drizzle with the olive
oil. Cover with boiling water by an inch, cover the pan with a tight
fitting lid, or a piece of foil. Transfer to a 325° oven and bake until
tender. Whether you cook the beans on the stove top or in the oven, they
will take about an hour and 15 minutes to cook. Add salt to taste when the
beans are half cooked. Beans may be cooked ahead. Cool the beans in
their cooking liquid.
In
a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until rendered and
beginning to turn golden and crisp around the edges. Add the leeks, onions, and
the garlic along with a pinch of salt and continue to cook until the vegetables
have begun to soften—about 10 to 15 minutes.
(If you are adding any carrots or celery, add them with the leeks and
onions.)
Add
the turnip, sweet potatoes and cabbage and stir to coat in the fat and cooked
vegetables. Add a good pinch of salt and
continue to cook, stirring occasionally until you can hear the vegetables
sizzling and see that the cabbage has begun to wilt/soften. Add the stock and enough water to just cover
the vegetables—they should be snug, but move freely and easily when stirred. In any case, the amount of liquid is up to you. Use less water if you want thick, hearty soup
and use more if you want a lighter, broth-y soup. Be mindful that the cabbage will collapse a
bit as it cooks.
Bring
the soup to a simmer. Taste and season
the soup with salt. Cover the pot,
leaving the lid slightly ajar. Simmer,
stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are just tender—about 20 to 25
minutes. Add the cooked beans with their
liquid. Return the soup to a gentle simmer
and cook briefly (5 minutes or so) to allow the flavors to blend. Correct the seasoning, adding freshly ground
black pepper, if you like. Serve
drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled generously with parsley. Serve with a loaf of crusty bread and some cheese.
Makes
2 1/2 quarts soup (enough for 5 or 6 servings)
