Fig Leaf Panna Cotta

We are in the middle of fig season.  For a good portion of my life, I was unaware of fresh figs...and their season.  I first experienced truly delicious fresh figs while working in Provence in the late 90s. The property where I lived and worked had three massive fig trees.  I was there in September...right in the middle of the main fig season (there is a smaller season in early summer).  We harvested ripe figs daily and set them on the breakfast buffet for our guests—and I was allowed to eat as many as I wanted.  (We used the excess abundance to make jam...as well as crostatas, fig and almond tarts and clafoutis.)  Like so many fresh fruits, there is nothing quite like tasting a fig at its peak...right off the tree.  I was captivated. 

There was a reason that I was so unaware of fresh figs:  Well into my adulthood, fresh figs were pretty rare where I lived in the Midwest.   You might have occasionally seen them in the grocery store...but they would have been pretty inferior.  Certainly they were inferior enough to make me wonder what all the fuss in food magazines and Mediterranean cookbooks was about.  But after having tasted the real deal in France, I understood.  When I returned home, I began seeking them out at specialty stores...and eventually found them at my local farmers market from a grower who happened to have a fig tree growing in his greenhouse. 

Happily, at some point during the last twenty five years, figs have become widely available in the states.  Nowadays, the ones that fill the stores (even regular grocery stores) during fig season are soft, plump, and sweet.  I can’t get enough of them.

Shortly after my return from France, I purchased the start of a fig tree from that grower at my farmers market.  Most fig trees are not naturally at home in regions with cold winters (anyplace that routinely dips much below 25 degrees), so my little tree has required some babying in the form of burial under a mountain of leaves every winter.  The fruit itself takes a surprisingly long time to mature.  So even where summers are long, if you don’t have tiny incipient figs by late June/early July, you probably won’t get to eat any figs off of your tree that year. I’m happy to report that I occasionally do get a few figs from my tree.

These days, since I can get good figs at the store, I prize my tree mostly for its exotic looking presence in my landscape...and for its leaves!  I remember when I worked in Provence that we always harvested a few leaves when we picked figs for breakfast and then used them to line the platters (fig leaves are beautiful).  And we occasionally used fig leaves as a wrapping for fish that was to be grilled or roasted.  When used in this way, the leaves trap the steam—keeping the fish moist and imparting a subtle coconut aroma to the flesh of the fish as it cooks.    

Fig leaf ice cream...topped with a fig from my tree(!)...

A few years ago I began noticing more recipes that use fig leaves in other ways.  Last year I made fig leaf ice cream (similar to the one David Lebovitz shares on his blog).  The delicate, slightly coconut-y flavor of the ice cream is subtle, exotic and delicious.  I thought of that ice cream this year when I was thinking about ideas for a late summer/early autumn panna cotta.

I imagine everyone is familiar with panna cotta at this point, but if you are not, it is a cool and creamy, dairy-based dessert from Italy.  Panna cotta  means cooked cream...and the cream it is made with is indeed heated—but I think this is mostly for infusion purposes (vanilla bean, spices, citrus zests...and in the current case: fig leaves).  Heating the cream also allows you to dissolve the gelatin, which is the means by which panna cotta is set.  You will often find panna cotta served turned out of its mold and onto a plate for a lovely molded dessert.  But I prefer a softer set (less gelatin), so I always serve it in glasses or ramekins.

Before infusing the cream with the fig leaves, they need to be dried.  Some people do this in a low oven—allowing the leaves to dry and curl gradually.  But it is just as easy...and much quicker...to dry the leaves in a wide skillet.  Rinse the leaves to remove any dust and blot them dry.  Then, place a cast iron (or other heavy) skillet over medium high heat.  Add the leaves to the pan (you will probably need to work in batches) and turn them over occasionally until they are curled, have shrunk a bit, and are beginning to crisp—about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.

I used a fairly basic, traditional recipe as the starting point for the fig leaf panna cotta.  I substituted milk for some of the cream so that the panna cotta wouldn’t be too rich.  And while every panna cotta I have made over the years has been sweetened with sugar, I chose to substitute honey for some of the sugar in this one since honey and figs are such natural partners.

I like to serve the fig leaf panna cotta topped with a few halved or quartered figs that have been tossed with a little honey simple syrup and allowed to sit for a half hour or so (to encourage the figs to give up some of their juices).  But it would be equally delicious topped with a few raspberries...or some sugared strawberries.  It is also good served plain.  Shortbread or sugar cookies are a fine accompaniment.

If you don’t happen to have a fig tree in your back yard, don’t worry—you can still find a way to make this delicious dessert.  It is highly likely there will be a grower at your farmers market who has a tree and who will be happy to bring a few leaves to the market for you.

Fig Leaf & Honey Panna Cotta

6 large fresh fig leaves (about 1 oz.)
2 1/2 c. heavy cream
6 T. sugar
1/4 c. honey
1 1/2 c. cold whole milk, divided
1 envelope powdered gelatin (2 1/2 t. or 1/4 ounce)
1 t. vanilla

In a cast iron skillet, warm the fig leaves, turning a few times while warming until they are slightly dried out and fragrant…about 1 1/2 minutes. You will probably need to do 2 at time.

Place the cream in a medium-sized, non-reactive saucepan.  Add the fig leaves and push down to submerge.  It’s ok if they break up.  Bring to just under a simmer (Don’t boil).  Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for two hours or so. 

When ready to finish the panna cotta, place a quarter cup of the milk in a small sauce pan and sprinkle the gelatin over.  Let the gelatin bloom/soften for a few minutes. Place the remaining 1 1/4 cup of milk and vanilla in a bowl large enough to hold all the milk and cream. 

While the gelatin blooms, use a pair of tongs to fish the fig leaves out of the cream.  Place the leaves in a fine meshed strainer set over the pan of cream (hold the strainer in one hand while you use the tongs to grab the leaves with the other hand).  Set the tongs aside and use your clean hands to squeeze as much of the cream out of the leaves as possible and back into the pan of cream (letting it pass through the strainer to catch all the bits of the leaves).  The leaves will have rehydrated a bit and become leathery...so this is a pretty easy process.  Discard the figs leaves.  Set the strainer aside. 

Add the sugar and honey to the infused cream and return the pan to the heat.  Gently warm while stirring with a heat proof spatula until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is steaming.  Set aside.

Place the small saucepan of milk and bloomed gelatin over low heat and warm, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the gelatin has completely melted.  Off the heat add the sweetened, infused cream and stir until the two mixtures are fully combined.  Set the sieve over the bowl of chilled cream and pour the hot, infused dairy mix through the sieve.  Stir until well combined.  Transfer the mixture to a vessel from which you can easily pour without sloshing or dripping.  Divide the mixture among eight ramekins, wine glasses, parfaits or other clear dessert dishes.   Each portion is about a half cup...so choose containers that will hold 2/3 to 3/4 cup of liquid.

Place the panna cottas on a sheet pan and transfer to the refrigerator.  The panna cotta will be lightly set in about four hours...they will be fully set after 12 hours.   I think the flavor is better/fuller if they are allowed to set overnight. 

Serve cold, topped with wedges of fresh figs tossed in a honey simple syrup (2 parts honey to 1 part warm water), fresh raspberries, or lightly sugared sliced strawberries—or enjoy plain.  Makes 8 (4-oz) servings.

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Cauliflower Risotto with Prosciutto & Crisped Garlic Breadcrumbs

Cauliflower is in season at the moment…and the specimens I have seen at my local stores have been pristine (and on sale!).  The abundance inspired me to feature cauliflower in my February newsletter…  sautéed in a pasta with chickpeas…  roasted in a Mediterranean spiced bulgur pilaf with carrots (and more chickpeas).  Because cauliflower has been a constant presence in my kitchen for the last month or so, I have been eating a lot of it.  And I suppose I have been more tuned in than usual to how other cooks are preparing it as I scroll my social media feeds, thumb through food magazines and cookbooks, etc.

This past week, Diana Henry’s weekly newsletter for The Telegraph featured a recipe for Cauliflower Risotto with Pangrattato (fried breadcrumbs) in the “week in recipes” section.  I was of course curious to see how she might be treating the cauliflower, so I clicked through.  And I loved what I found.  Since I had cauliflower on hand I decided to use her recipe as a starting point for my Sunday supper.

The main thing I loved about her recipe was the fact that she cooked the cauliflower in the broth that she then used to cook the risotto.  Any time I can enhance the flavor of a dish by using the liquid the vegetables were cooked in to finish the dish, I always try to do it.  I frequently cook vegetables destined for a pasta sauce in the pasta water…and many years ago I shared a Risotto-style Farro with Asparagus that uses water the asparagus stems have been cooked in for the cooking of the farro. 

The method she used to cook the cauliflower for the risotto also reminded me of a cauliflower & broccoli pasta recipe I had just made.  Both recipes instruct you to poach large florets of cauliflower until just tender (not mushy).  In Henry’s risotto recipe, she then allows the stirring action during the final half of making of the risotto to break the florets down further into smaller florets and nubbins.  In my pasta, I rough chop the poached cauliflower before finishing it in the sauce.  I decided to use the method I use when I make the pasta to make the risotto (since it allows me a little more control).

Bucatini with Cauliflwer, Broccoli, Pine Nuts & Currants--a recipe that uses a similar method for cooking the cauliflower and broccoli

I think it would be fair to say that I used Henry’s recipe mostly for inspiration.  I added some julienne prosciutto and lemon zest to the pan with the cooked cauliflower (I think cauliflower gets a boost from a little extra salt and a little lemon).  And because I always like to see some of what’s in my risotto perched on top of my risotto, I held back about a quarter of the poached cauliflower, cut it into smaller, attractive florets and then sautéed them in a little butter.  I think they make a lovely garnish…but you could of course skip this step.  

Other than her method of cooking the cauliflower, the only thing I copied was the final addition of toasted breadcrumbs (Pangrattato).  I love finishing pastas (see the aforementioned cauliflower & broccoli pasta), savory tarts, gratins, etc. with crisped breadcrumbs.  I don’t know why it never occurred to me to top a risotto with them.  They add the perfect garlicky crunch. 

I love breadcrumbs used in this way so much that I try to keep a bag of coarse “fresh” breadcrumbs in my freezer.  As it happens when I made the risotto this time, I didn’t have any.  But since I always have sliced bread in my freezer, I just took out a slice, cut the crust off and used a large-holed grater to grate the still frozen bread into coarse crumbs.  It worked perfectly.

Before I close, I wanted to give a quick plug for my newsletter, Notes from For Love of the Table.  I know newsletters are becoming ubiquitous.  But there is a reason for that.  They are a great way to get the work you do directly to the people who enjoy what you do.  For the writer/creator/recipe developer, they are a reasonable way to earn a living from the actual work they do, rather than relying on irrelevant and intrusive ads.  So…if you like the recipes I share…and the way that I share them…I hope you will check it out—and consider subscribing. I will continue to post free content here on my blog as I am able.  But I’ll be honest and admit that my creative energies go first to my newsletter and my private dinner service.  My newsletter comes out once a month and usually includes three recipes (sometimes more). I also share tips and tricks to help make your life in the kitchen easier. You can see a list of the things I have shared since the newsletter's inception here.

Whether or not you subscribe, I do hope you'll give this risotto a try.  It is delicious...  subtle, light, and satisfying.  A perfect way to enjoy cauliflower.

Cauliflower Risotto with Prosciutto & Crisped Garlic Breadcrumbs

 1 1/2 T. unsalted butter

1/2 of a medium onion (about 3 oz.), finely diced

1 small (or half a large) clove of garlic, minced

2 1/2 c. chicken stock

7 oz. large (1 1/2 to 2 inches) cauliflower florets

2/3 c. Arborio or Carnaroli rice

1/3 c. white wine

Salt & Pepper, to taste

1 T. olive oil

1/2 c. coarse breadcrumbs—see notes

1 small (or half a large) clove of garlic

1/2 T. minced parsley

3/4 to 1 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto (2 slices), cut crosswise in 1/4-inch strips

1 t. lemon zest

1 to 1 1/2 T. butter

1/3 c. (1 oz.) finely grated Parmesan

1 T. minced flat-leaf parsley

 

Heat 1 1/2 T. of the butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat.  Add the onion and garlic and sweat until very soft, but not brown—about 10 minutes. 

Cut the cauliflower in large florets 

While the onions cook, place the chicken stock in a small saucepan, cover the pan, and bring to a simmer.  Add the cauliflower florets and cover.  Simmer until just tender to the tip of a knife—about 5 minutes.  Use tongs or a slotted spoon to lift the florets out of the stock.  Place them on a plate.  Cover the stock and keep it hot for the cooking of the risotto.

When the onions are soft, add the rice and continue to cook for 2 or 3 minutes—or until the rice is hot and the grains look pearly white in the center.  Add the wine and cook until the pan is nearly dry.  Begin to add the stock.  Add enough so that the stock is at the same level as the rice in the pan.  Adjust the heat so that the rice cooks at a slow and gentle simmer.  When the pan is nearly dry, add more stock and season lightly with salt & pepper.  Continue to stir and cook the rice, adding more stock as each addition is absorbed. 

While the rice is cooking, sauté the breadcrumbs and finish preparing the cauliflower: Warm a tablespoon of olive oil in a small nonstick pan set over moderately high heat.  Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring regularly until they are golden and crisp—a minute or two.  Turn off the heat and using a microplaner, grate the small clove of garlic into the pan and add a half tablespoon of parsley along with a pinch of salt.  Stir until fragrant.  Scrape the seasoned crumbs onto a plate and set aside.  Wipe out the pan with a paper towel and set the pan aside.

Take a quarter of the cooked cauliflower and cut it into smaller (1-inch or less), attractive florets.  Set aside.  Coarsely chop the remaining cooked cauliflower.  You should have a rough mixture of small and medium pieces.

When the rice is about half cooked (after about 10 minutes of cooking), stir in the chopped cauliflower, prosciutto, and lemon zest.  Continue to cook, stir and add stock until the rice is al dente—about 10 minutes more (for a total about 20 minutes from the time of the first addition of stock).  If you run out of hot stock, you can finish the risotto with boiling water.

Two or three minutes before the risotto is done, return the pan the breadcrumbs were toasted in to a moderately high flame and add a half tablespoon of butter to the pan.  When the foam subsides, add the reserved cauliflower and let sizzle until golden in spots, stirring/tossing once or twice.  Season with salt and remove the pan from the heat. 

When the risotto is done, remove from the heat and add a tablespoon of butter, the Parmesan and a tablespoon of parsley.  Stir until the risotto is very creamy.  Cover and let rest off of the heat for a minute or two. Taste and correct the seasoning. Divide the risotto among two shallow bowls, spoon the cauliflower garnish over each and shower with the toasted breadcrumbs.  Serves 2.

Notes: 

• The breadcrumbs should be made from a slightly stale, country style loaf.  Cut away the crusts and process in the food processor to get a coarse chop.  You will need about an ounce of bread with crusts to make a half cup of coarse crumbs.  You can make coarse crumbs anytime you have some leftover bread.  They keep very well in a ziplock bag in the freezer.  If I don’t have crumbs in my freezer, I usually have slices of bread.  To get coarse crumbs you can cut the crusts off and grate the still frozen slices on the large holes of a box grater.
• If you don’t want to go to the trouble of sautéing some of the cauliflower for garnish, simply chop all of the cauliflower (instead of 3/4) and add it all to the risotto with the prosciutto and lemon zest. 

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