Barley Risotto...with Mediterranean Flavors...and Mushrooms

A few years ago I devoted a couple of posts to making "risotto" from farro.  At the time, farro was a new grain to me. But the idea of making a non-rice grain into a creamy risotto-like dish was not new.  Years before I came across farro, we were making and serving a barley risotto at the restaurant where I worked.  I haven't really thought much about barley risotto in years, but this winter when I was putting together a slate of recipes for my class on grains, I decided I wanted to revisit that dish.

Both farro and barley make admirable stand-ins for Arborio (or Carnaroli) rice in risotto for a couple of reasons.  First, they both have a wide window within which they can continue to absorb liquid while still maintaining an "al dente" texture.  Secondly—and most importantly—when cooked, they exude enough starch to thicken any extra liquid that is present into a creamy, fluid sauce. 

Both barley and farro can be made into risotto using the exact same method that is used with rice:  by adding hot liquid a ladleful at a time while stirring regularly, until the grains are swollen, tender (but with texture), and suspended in a creamy liquid.  As with classic risotto, it is a process that requires almost constant attention from the cook.  Since the results are delicious, most people don't seem to mind the extra effort. 

But this labor intensive process is only one of the options when you make "risotto" with barley or farro.  For both of these grains you can just cook them as you normally would—by boiling in salted water or using the "pilaf method" (sautéing the grain in some fat before adding a measured amount of hot liquid, covering and cooking at the lowest heat until the liquid is absorbed).  To make "risotto" you simply add more liquid to the finished grain (or, add the cooled cooked grain to a pan with a small amount of simmering liquid), add butter...and then stir, stir, stir....until the grains of barley (or farro) are suspended in a creamy, fluid liquid.  This "finishing" process takes less than five minutes.  Nothing could be easier.  And the results are delicious. 

Bear in mind that no matter which of these methods you choose to use, you must use pearled barley.  The pearling process is what enables the barley to release its starch.  Whole barley (hulled or hull-less) will not release the starch needed to produce the final creamy sauce.    

The recipe I am posting today was inspired by that long ago dish we served at The American restaurant.  If memory serves, it was brought to us when Chef John Ash visited to teach a class.  It is filled with the vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean:  tangy sundried tomatoes, briny olives, and sharp capers.   I have no memory of how we prepped the barley before finishing it as a risotto, but I chose to prepare it with the pilaf method (with scallions and chicken stock) since this would add even more flavor.  To make the dish a bit more substantial (and appropriate for a light entrée) I decided to add some sautéed mushrooms.  I think they add just the right touch (I love mushrooms with barley), but you could leave them out if you prefer.  Either way, I think you will find this "risotto" to be very flavorful....and very satisfying.

Mediterranean Barley Risotto with Mushrooms

 

3 T. olive oil, divided

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, white & green kept separately

1 c. pearl barley (180 grams)

3 to 4 c. chicken stock, divided

Salt & freshly ground pepper

3 to 5 T. unsalted butter, divided

8 oz. crimini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 c. dry white wine

1/4 c. sun dried tomatoes (oil-packed), drained and thinly sliced

1/4 c. Kalamata olives, pitted & quartered

2 to 2 1/2 T. capers, rinsed

1/4 c. chopped flat leaf parsley

1/2 c. (1 1/2 oz.) finely grated Parmesan, plus a chunk for shaving for garnish

Heat 2 T. oil in a medium-sized heavy pot set over medium to medium high heat.  Add the white part of the scallions and cook until tender.  Add the barley and cook, stirring, until well coated with oil and sizzling—about 2 minutes.  Add 2 cups chicken stock along with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the barley is tender (but still has nice texture), 25 to 35 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes.  If using right away, set aside until ready to finish the risotto.  If working ahead, spread the barley on a rimmed baking sheet to cool.  Scrape into a container, cover and chill.  Bring to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.

To finish the risotto, warm the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and a tablespoon of butter in a wide, shallow pan (a 3 to 4 qt. braiser or sauteuse is perfect) set over medium hi heat.  When the butter melts and the foam subsides, add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are golden and any liquid given off has been absorbed or has evaporated.  Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Add garlic and cook briefly, until fragrant (do not let it burn). Add the white wine and reduce to a glaze.  Add a cup of the remaining stock and bring to a simmer.  Add the cooked barley along with the green portion of the scallions, the sundried tomatoes, the olives and the capers.  Bring to a simmer, stirring regularly.  Stir in 2 T. of the butter and as much of the remaining stock as you like to achieve the consistency you prefer.  The barley should be creamy and fluid, but not soupy.  Finish with Parmesan, parsley and the remaining butter (which will add to the creaminess of the dish), if you like.

Serves 4 as a main course and 6 to 8 as a side dish.

Variation:  To prepare the risotto without mushrooms, simply place the stock in the pan, add the cooked barley and heat through and finish as directed.

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Mediterranean Eggplant & Barley Salad

I taught a class this week called "The Bounty of Late Summer"—all about ways to use and enjoy the abundance that fills the Midwestern farmers' markets in August and September (eggplant, summer squash, peppers, tomatoes....). I included a recipe in the class for a Mediterranean Eggplant and Barley Salad that I found several years ago in Gourmet. It is one of my favorite recipes. As I told my class, the variety of tastes and textures make this salad something a good friend would call "a party in your mouth". I mentioned this pilaf in a post I wrote last year on how to "build" a grain and vegetable pilaf but didn't think I would ever devote an entire post to it since the recipe is available on line at Epicurious. But every time I make it, I am struck by how good it is, so I thought I would go ahead and post it on my blog so that even more people will be exposed to this fantastic salad.

The recipe is self-explanatory and easy to execute as written...I will only elaborate on a couple of points. First, the barley. Make sure the barley is rinsed before it is added to the onion-spice base. This will rinse off some of the surface starch that might cause the final pilaf to be gummy. Any extra water that is still clinging to the grains will be removed when you cook the barley in the hot oil before adding the liquid. This brief sauté of the grain is important—it helps to harden off the surface starches (a further protection against stickiness). I always tell people when sautéing a grain for a pilaf, continue to cook and stir until the grain is well-coated in the hot fat and literally sizzling and snapping.

The other thing to pay close attention to is the roasting of the vegetables. If you are a novice when it comes to roasting vegetables, check out my post from last year on the basics. The most important thing to remember when making this pilaf is that while any vegetable will take on better color and remain more intact during the roasting process if it isn't stirred too much, it is particularly true of vegetables that become very soft when they are cooked (like eggplant and zucchini). Wait until the surfaces have begun to seal and you can see that they are beginning to color before you start to stir.

The eggplant and zucchini in this recipe are diced small and are cooked in a very hot oven—they only cook for about 20 to 25 minutes. They really shouldn't be stirred until after at least 15 minutes (near the end of the cooking time). Stirring too early or too frequently, will result in a lumpy pile of mashed eggplant and zucchini rather than a sheet pan filled with beautiful golden cubes of roasted vegetables. Not stirring them at all during the roasting process would be preferable to stirring them before the surfaces have had a chance to begin to caramelize.

And when/if you stir, be efficient and purposeful with your motions. The goal is to turn the vegetables over. Use a large pancake style turner to scoop under the vegetables (cleanly releasing them from the sheet) and then flip them over. When all of the vegetables have been turned over, give the sheet pan a quick shake to make sure the vegetables are once again in an even, single layer. Simply "stirring" randomly will encourage the vegetables to break apart.

The recipe directs you to use two cookie sheets. This is not just a way to get you to dirty more dishes. It is to make sure that the vegetables aren't too crowded while they are roasting. If they are crowded and piled on top of one another, they won't caramelize well (if at all) and are more likely to cook into a steamy, lumpy blob. The vegetables need to be in a single layer on the sheets—and not too crowded—so that the moisture in the vegetables has room to escape as they cook. These vegetables are full of water. You will be amazed at the amount of steam they give off during early stages of the roasting process. When you open the oven at the half way point to rotate the pans, you will be greeted by a cloud of steam (which you will particularly notice if you wear glasses). When the vegetables are done roasting, wait for them to stop steaming before you combine the two pans.

Recently I have begun to occasionally prepare this pilaf with Semi-Pearled Farro instead of Pearled Barley. It is delicious either way, but I think I may even like the Farro version better. If you do prepare the pilaf with Farro, you will need less liquid. Reduce the total amount to 2 cups. As with the Barley, rinse the Farro before adding it to the hot fat.

I have also successfully prepared this dish with water in place of the chicken stock. I think the recipe was written with canned stock in mind, so there is no mention of adding salt to the grain while it cooks. If you use water, you will need to salt the water in which the Barley (or Farro) is cooked.  A nice advantage of using water, is that it makes this a vegetarian dish. Another advantage of using water instead of stock is that you can feel a little bit better about making this salad for a picnic or potluck. Foods sit out at unsafe temperatures for long periods of time at potlucks and picnics—far longer than would be advisable for something prepared with a meat stock.

This recipe makes copious quantities of salad. But this is actually a good thing since it keeps well—neither the Barley or the Farro will become soggy. The salad is also highly portable, so besides making an excellent contribution to a picnic or potluck, the leftovers make good lunchbox fare. Add a piece of cheese and something tasty for dessert (some fresh fruit...or a brownie...) and your coworkers will be eyeing your lunch with envy.

Mediterranean Eggplant and Barley Salad

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, white & green kept separately
1 1/2 t. ground cumin
1/2 t. ground coriander
1/8 to 1/4 t. cayenne, to taste
1 1/4 c. pearl barley (8 oz.), rinsed
1 3/4 c. chicken stock
3/4 c. water
1 1/2 lb. eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3/4 lb. zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
10 T. olive oil
Salt & freshly ground pepper
2 T. fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, smashed to a purée with a pinch of salt
1/2 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered, depending on their size
1/3 c. Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted & halved
1/2 c. thinly sliced red onion, rinsed & drained
2/3 c. coarsely chopped parsley
1/4 to 1/2 c. basil or mint chiffonade

Heat 2 T. oil in a 3- to 4- quart heavy pot over medium to medium high heat. Add the white part of the scallions and cook until tender. Add the cumin, coriander and cayenne and cook a moment more, or until fragrant. Add the barley and cook, stirring, until well coated with oil and sizzling—about 2 minutes. Add the broth and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the barley is tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes.

While the barley cooks, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Toss the eggplant and zucchini in a generous amount of olive oil (about 5 T.) and season with salt & pepper. Spread the vegetables between 2 rimmed baking sheets. Roast the vegetables at 425°. To insure even cooking, rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom half way through the cooking time. Do not stir the vegetables until they have begun to take on some color—and then do so carefully, using a pancake turner-type spatula to scoop the vegetables off the sheet and turn them over. You should only need to stir once...if at all. The vegetables are done when they are golden and tender—about 20 to 25 minutes total. Cool briefly before combining the vegetables in one of the pans. Let them cool completely while the barley finishes cooking.

When the barley is done cooking, transfer it to the second vegetable pan (now empty) and spread so it will cool quickly to room temperature—this should take 20 minutes or so.

In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, garlic and salt & pepper. Whisk in 3 T. olive oil. Add the barley, roasted vegetables and all of the remaining ingredients and toss to combine well.

Serve at room temperature as an accompaniment to grilled meat or chicken or as an entrée with a few slices of Ricotta Salata or Feta. Serves 4 to 6 as a main course and 8 as a side dish.

Note: The salad can be made ahead. Store, covered, in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Variation: The salad is excellent made with Semi-Pearled Farro instead of Pearled Barley. Reduce the total amount of liquid from 2 1/2 cups to 2 cups. The Farro will cook in 25 to 30 minutes. When it is tender, allow it to rest (covered) for 5 minutes as for the Barley.

(Recipe adapted from Gourmet, September 2006)

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