Baked Pasta Shells with Kale & Chicken (or Turkey)

While flipping through the current issue of Martha Stewart's Everyday Food, a baked pasta dish with kale and chicken caught my eye. At first glance it appeared to be an interesting variation on macaroni and cheese. Upon closer inspection, it proved to be a baked casserole of pasta shells, chicken, kale and a rather massive quantity (48 oz!) of ricotta. Because the picture had made me hungry for a macaroni and cheese-style dish...and because I didn't have any ricotta in the house—but I did have all the ingredients for a béchamel-bound dish...I made instead the dish I had imagined when I first saw the picture.

The idea of this dish appealed to me for several reasons. I love pasta in all seasons, but I particularly like baked pasta (of the macaroni and cheese variety) during the fall and winter months. Last November I posted an old favorite with cauliflower and tomatoes. I also noticed this recipe because I have been going through my freezer to prepare for the holidays and discovered a small container of shredded roast chicken that I wanted to use up—it turned out to be the perfect amount. (For those of you who don't happen to have roast chicken in your freezer—and who don't want to roast one just for this dish—you could use a purchased rotisserie chicken.) But I really think the thing that made me stop and take a second look at this recipe was the presence of the kale.

I have been enjoying the local kale crop so much this fall. I have brought home a bag almost every week.  Chard has been a favorite of mine for years, but it is only in the last several years that I have really discovered kale. Kale is more substantial than chard—both in texture and in taste. It is also very good for you. Perhaps this sounds strange, but eating it makes me feel healthy—not in an "eat this, it's good for you" sense, but in an all around well-being sense of feeling happy, well-fed and well-nourished. In other words, it is a truly satisfying thing to eat. Kale has a slightly bitter, mineral-y taste that I love. It is especially good when paired with starchy foods—potatoes, bread, grains, beans....and pasta.

I'm not sure it was necessary for me to post a recipe that is really just a simple variation of my favorite macaroni and cheese. But it struck me as a rather timely variation. It is, of course, almost Thanksgiving. And although you might not have any roast chicken on hand, you will in all likelihood have leftover roast turkey taking up space in your refrigerator in the very near future.

Baked Pasta with Kale & Chicken

2 T. butter
1 small onion (5 oz.), diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 bunch kale, ribs removed, and rinsed in several changed of water
6 oz. (about 1 cup) shredded roast chicken (or turkey)
2 cups whole milk
2 T. butter
3 T. all-purpose flour
6 oz. shell pasta
4 oz. Dubliner plus 2 oz. sharp white Cheddar, coarsely grated—these are the cheeses that I had on hand, but you can use 6 oz. of any combination of good melting cheeses that you like (Gruyère, Gouda, etc.)
1/3 c. (1 oz.) grated Parmesan

Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously butter a 1 1/2 quart gratin or casserole and set aside.

In a medium-sized sauté pan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the onion, along with a pinch of salt, and sweat the onions are tender and are beginning to caramelize—bout 10 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Set aside.

While the onions cook, blanch the kale in a pot of boiling salted water until tender. Lift the kale out and spread on a baking sheet to cool. When cool, squeeze out the excess moisture, one handful at a time. Chop coarsely. Add the kale to the cooked onions and toss to combine. Taste and correct the seasoning and set aside.

Prepare the béchamel: In a large saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer; keep hot. In another large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. When the foam subsides, whisk in the flour. Cook stirring constantly for a few minutes—the roux will be bubbly and straw yellow. Remove from the heat and pour in half of the hot milk, whisking constantly until smooth—it will thicken immediately. Add the remaining milk. Return to the heat and stir constantly until the sauce returns to a simmer. Taste and season as desired with salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling water seasoned generously with salt. Stir and cook until the pasta is al dente (since it will continue to cook as it bakes with the sauce, it can be left quite firm). Drain the pasta.

In a large bowl, combine the chicken, kale mixture, béchamel and pasta.

Add the cheese and quickly fold in—the cheese does not have to melt. Turn the mixture into the prepared pan. Scatter the Parmesan over the top and place on a baking sheet.

Bake until hot through—about 20 to 25 minutes. If necessary, place under the broiler (about 4 inches from the heat) until the top is golden. Serves 3 to 4

Note: This recipe doubles easily to feed a larger group. Use a 13- by 9-inch (3 quart) baking dish.

Printable Version

Celery Root & Apple Soup for a Rainy Evening



After more than a month of real drought, we had a prolonged, soaking rain on Wednesday. Because of the drought our October was unusually warm and sunny—beautiful really—but I have missed the rain. Wednesday began grey and cool and then turned windy, cold and blustery by evening. The rain continued to fall into the night...it was wonderful. And just as with our one cool day last week, it was a perfect day for soup. But this time, instead of a hearty, chunky vegetable and bean based soup, I made a velvety purée of celery root and apple.

Celery root and apples are natural flavor partners—in both their raw and cooked form. Recipes for a soup made from these two are easy to find. Typically these soups use Granny Smith apples, but I have seen some recipes that use sweeter apples (Fuji and Ginger gold, for example). You may use any apple that pleases you, but I love the tartness of the Granny Smiths in this soup. Most recipes use onions for the flavor base, but I have chosen to use leeks. I like the richness they add, but as with the choice of apples, you should feel free to use onion instead.

Most puréed soups—especially those made with vegetables that have a relatively small amount of natural starch (cauliflower, carrots, celery root, turnips, etc.)—need to have a thickener of some kind. A thickener will add body and will also prevent the vegetables from separating into their fibrous and liquid components. A potato is frequently the starchy addition of choice. It would not be a bad choice for this soup—potatoes and celery root are wonderful together. But when I made my soup, I was more interested in the flavors of the celery root and apple. I thought the addition of the potato would mute these flavors too much.

Another, less obtrusive way to add starch to a puréed soup is to add some rice. To use rice, simply add it a minute or two before adding the liquid. Allow it to cook briefly in the fat with the vegetables. After the liquid has been added, make sure that the soup cooks for at least 20 minutes so that the rice will be fully cooked before the soup is puréed. Soups thickened with rice have a lovely, velvety texture.

Puréed soups are always more interesting when they are finished with a garnish of some kind—and there are lots of possible garnishes for this soup. A few sautéed mushrooms floated in each bowl...a spoonful of cooked wild rice...a few crumbles of blue cheese along with some minced walnuts... At epicurious, I found a particularly appealing garnish: a scattering of crispy, salty pancetta. A final drizzle of a fragrant nut oil (walnut or hazelnut), truffle oil or a flavorful extra virgin olive oil will enhance any garnish you choose.

When served in small (1 cup or less) portions, puréed soups are an elegant first course. But it would be limiting to assume that they are only for the formal setting of the multi-course meal. In larger portions this soup is a filling and soothing entrée. The addition of some biscuits, a crusty artisanal loaf of bread or even a grilled cheese sandwich, make it a meal...and it was absolutely perfect on our recent cold and rainy evening.

Celery Root & Apple Soup

4 T. unsalted butter
2 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, halved, thinly sliced and well rinsed (about 2 1/2 to 3 cups)
2 medium celery root (about 1 lb. each), peeled, quartered and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)
2 Granny Smith Apples (about 7 oz. each), peeled, quartered, cored and thinly sliced (2 1/2 to 3 cups)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 T. white rice
1/2 c. dry white wine
5 to 6 c. Chicken stock or low-salt canned broth
1/2 c. heavy cream
Salt & Pepper
2 to 3 oz. minced pancetta, cooked until crisp in a bit of butter
Minced Italian Flat leaf parsley
Extra Virgin olive oil

In a large stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks, celery root, apples and garlic along with a generous pinch of salt.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened—about 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice and cook for a minute or two. Add the white wine, bring to a simmer and reduce to a glaze. Add enough stock so that the vegetables are just covered and moving freely. Bring to a simmer. Season with salt. Cover and cook over low heat until the celery root and apple are very soft—about 30 minutes.

Purée the soup in batches (the blender should only be filled half way when puréeing hot liquids), adding more stock (or water, if you prefer) if the soup is too thick. Pass the puréed soup through a fine meshed sieve,  pressing on the solids to extract as much soup as possible.  Return the soup to the pot and add the cream. Heat through. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve immediately, garnished with the pancetta, herbs and a drizzle of olive oil.

Makes about 2 quarts soup.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Bars for Halloween



For our household "Halloween Treat" this year I made one of my favorite pumpkin recipes—pumpkin chocolate chip bars. The recipe is from a special holiday cookie issue of Martha Stewart's Everyday Food, and I haven't changed it one bit. It is very good just the way it is. A quick internet search will reveal that many bloggers have made and loved these bars. For those of you who have never come across these spicy little pumpkin and chocolate gems, you are in for a treat.

As with most bars, these are very easy to make—I will just add a couple of tips. First, the original recipe tells you to line the pan with foil, leaving an overhang so that you can lift the bars out of the pan for cutting. Foil works just fine, but I have always used parchment. It serves the same purpose as the foil, but I find it to be much easier to work with.

Pan, lined with parchment

There is no need to leave the parchment sticking up above the edge of the pan, so I trim it away with a sharp knife.

My other piece of advice has to do with the cutting of the bars. Unfortunately, they are not as easy to cut as they are to make. They are so moist that with each swipe of the knife, the blade comes out coated with a fair amount of cake and soft chocolate. Wiping the blade down after each cut will help some—but it isn't enough. If you want clean, sharp cuts, after each cut run the knife under very hot tap water. Then, wipe the blade clean and dry before making the next cut. The hot knife will slice cleanly through the chips, and since the knife has been wiped clean it won't gather a thicker and thicker layer of cake crumbs after each slice. The recipe recommends using a serrated knife. I prefer to use a very sharp slicing knife.

I guess there is one thing about these bars with which I take issue—they are woefully misnamed. The original recipe is called "Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Squares" and the implication is that they are "cake" squares. If you make them expecting cake, you might be disappointed. Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Brownie...or Blondie...would do a much better job of conveying the moist and "light, yet dense" nature of these bars. The problem of course is that they are not solidly chocolate—like a brownie—neither are they brown sugar-y—like a blondie. I guess there really isn't a perfectly appropriate name for them...so Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Bars will have to do.   Enjoy.... and have a Happy Halloween!


Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Bars

2 c. all-purpose flour (230 grams)
1 T. pumpkin pie spice (or substitute 1 1/2 t. cinnamon, 3/4 t. ginger, 1/2 t. nutmeg and 1/8 t. each allspice and cloves)
1 t. baking soda
3/4 t. salt
2 sticks unsalted butter (1/2 lb.), room temperature
1 1/4 c. sugar (250 grams)
1 egg
2 t. vanilla
1 c. canned solid-pack pumpkin (245 grams)
1 pkg. (12 oz.) semisweet chocolate chips

Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and then line the bottom and sides with aluminum foil or parchment paper leaving an overhang on two sides. Butter and flour the foil/paper. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, spices, baking soda & salt; set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy; beat in the egg and vanilla. Beat in the pumpkin (the mixture will look curdled).

Add the dry ingredients, mixing just until combined. Fold in the chocolate chips.

Add the chips just before the dry ingredients are fully incorporated to avoid over-mixing.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Bake in a 350° oven until the edges begin to pull away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with just a few moist crumbs—about 35 to 40 minutes. Cool completely in the pan.

Using the foil/parchment overhang, lift the bars from the pan. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into bars (24, 36, 40 or 48).

Cut into 40 pieces (5 by 8), to make bars that are a nice two bite-sized nibble.

(From Everyday Food Collectible Cookie Edition, Holiday 2006)

Printable Recipe

Butternut Squash, Kale & White Bean Soup


The weather turned cooler yesterday. It is still not what I would call cold, but there is a bit of a damp chill in the air—it seems that soup weather may have finally arrived. Last Saturday at the farmers' market I picked up a bag of beautiful young kale. So as the weather changed, and I began to think about soup, I immediately thought of the kale. Since I always have winter squash on my counter this time of year—and I love squash with kale—I decided I would make one of my favorite variations on the classic soup combination of beans and greens.

Together these two ingredients never fail to produce a sustaining and warming kind of soup.  But somehow the soup this time was extraordinarily so....  It could have been the heightened sense of enjoyment that I experience every season when I taste an old favorite again for the first time that year.  But I think it probably had a lot to do with the color of the soup itself.  Normally a study in cream, beige and muted green, the butternut squash imbues the soup with a soft, warm orange, making it a perfect antidote to a gray autumn day. 



Butternut Squash & White Bean Soup with Kale

4 to 5 T. Olive Oil
1 c. White beans (Great Northern or Cannellini are both good choices)—soaked over-night
2 medium onions (about 1 lb.), diced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 to 2 t. minced Rosemary or Thyme
8 to 10 oz. Kale (Curly or Tuscan), stems removed, leaves cut into 1-inch wide ribbons and rinsed thoroughly to remove any grit
1 medium Butternut Squash (about 1 1/2 lbs.), cut in a scant 1/2-inch dice (about 4 cups)
4 c. Chicken stock
Extra Virgin Olive oil for drizzling
Parmesan (optional)



Drain and rinse the soaked beans. Place the beans in a medium saucepan and add water to cover by an inch. Bring the beans to a boil and skim off the foam that rises to the surface. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil and continue to cook the beans at a gentle simmer until the beans are very tender—about an hour and 15 minutes. Add salt to taste when the beans are half cooked. Beans may be cooked ahead. Cool the beans in their cooking liquid and bring to a simmer before finishing the soup.

About an hour before serving the soup, heat 3 T. olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and rosemary along with a pinch of salt. Sweat, reducing the heat if necessary, until the onion is very tender, stirring occasionally—about 15 minutes. It's okay if the onion mixture begins to caramelize a bit.

Add the kale and a pinch of salt and cook, turning occasionally, until it collapses. It may be necessary to increase the heat a bit.

When the kale collapses, add the squash and cook another 2 or 3 minutes, turning occasionally.

Add the stock and bring to a simmer. If the soup is too thick, add more stock or water--the vegetables should be snug in the pot, but they should also move freely in the liquid when stirred.

Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper. Simmer the soup until the squash and kale are tender—about 20 to 30 minutes. At this point, I like to use the back of a spoon to smash some of the squash cubes against the side of the pan. This will give the soup a lovely orange color and a bit of body. Add the beans, along with their liquid. Again, if the soup is too thick, add water or stock. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Ladle soup into shallow bowls and top with coarsely grated or shaved Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil, if desired.

Makes about 2 to 2 1/2 quarts soup to serve 4 to 6.

Variations:
• Cook 8 to 12 oz. of Italian link sausage in the pot before cooking the onion. When the sausage is browned, transfer to the oven and finish cooking. Slice or dice the cooked sausage, and add to the soup with the beans.

• Add 4 oz. of prosciutto, cut in a 1/4-inch dice, to the pot when the onions are finished cooking. When the prosciutto begins to sizzle a bit, add the kale.

 • Substitute Swiss Chard for the Kale. Chard cooks much more quickly than kale, so wait to add it until the squash is soft and then add it with the cooked beans and their liquid. Simmer gently until the chard is tender—about 10 minutes.

• For a "post Thanksgiving" variation, use turkey stock and add some shredded roast turkey with the beans.

• If you forget to soak the beans overnight, use one of the quick soak methods outlined in my post on White Bean Soup with Sausage & Swiss Chard.

Printable Recipe

Poulet Vallée d'Auge (Chicken with Calvados, Cream, Mushrooms & Apples)


One of my favorite ways to cook chicken is in a classic French sauté. A braised, stew-like preparation of bone-in pieces of chicken, a sauté can be simple and rustic or labor-intensive and refined...or somewhere in between. No matter how rustic or refined, well-executed renditions of these dishes are always flavorful and utterly satisfying—conjuring up idealized images of grandmother's house...and Sunday dinner.  Every region of France seems to have its own special sautés that feature traditional and local products. A little over a year ago I posted a recipe for a refined version of a sauté from the Basque country. Today I thought I would share a sauté from Normandy called Poulet Vallée d'Auge.

The Pays d'Auge is located in central Normandy—the land of butter and cream and apples. Three of France's famous cheeses (Camembert, Livarot and Pont-l'Évêque) come from this region. It is also the home of Calvados (apple brandy), as well as hard cider and Pommeau (a fortified-style apple wine). It is only fitting that a chicken sauté from this region would feature cream, Calvados and apples. 

Poulet Vallée d'Auge goes together in the usual way of a sauté—brown the chicken, remove the chicken and brown the vegetables, deglaze the pan, return the chicken to the pan, add more liquid and simmer gently until the chicken is very tender. I cover the basic steps of the sauté model in more detail in my post on Poulet Basquaise. My Poulet Vallée d'Auge is slightly less refined than my version of Poulet Basquaise—the vegetables cooked with the chicken are not strained out—but the principles behind the two dishes are the same.

The components of Poulet Vallée d'Auge vary surprisingly little from recipe to recipe.  There are of course the three signature ingredients (Calvados, cream and apples).  And most versions will also include shallots, mushrooms, thyme and bay.  The greatest variation occurs in the liquids that are used.  In addition to the Calvados and cream some recipes add even more liquid—hard cider or chicken stock are typical.  I added stock to mine, but if you have access to a nice dry, hard cider, it would be entirely in keeping with the integrity of the dish to use that instead of or in combination with the stock.  You will even find some recipes that add no liquids other than Calvados and cream.  

If you don't keep Calvados on hand (it is fairly expensive), I think it is perfectly acceptable to use plain brandy. Certainly it would be better to use brandy than to bypass this wonderful dish just because you didn't have any Calvados. You will also notice in the recipe that it directs you to return the chicken to the pan before you add the Calvados. This is a bit of a departure from most sautés. The usual method is to deglaze the pan with wine (or possibly stock) before the chicken is returned to the pan. It is just easier to do the required boiling and scraping of the bottom of the pan without large pieces of chicken to work around (I also think it probably doesn't do the chicken any favors to expose it to hard boiling). In this dish, a lot of the work of deglazing is accomplished by the mushrooms before the Calvados is added because the mushrooms release some liquid when they are first added to the pan and before they begin to brown. Also, since the Calvados is flambéed (instead of boiled for reduction) there is a school of thought that holds that by flambéing the Calvados around the chicken, the chicken is infused with the aroma of the Calvados.

Apples are added to Poulet Vallée d'Auge at the end as a garnish. Sometimes they are simply sautéed and served alongside the chicken and its sauce. But I like to add the sautéed apples to the cream sauce for a brief simmer at the end while the sauce is reducing—this insures that the apples are tender (make sure you choose an apple that holds its shape when cooked) and it also allows them to contribute their flavor to the final sauce.

Caramelized apples

Apples simmering in reducing cream sauce

Since we are in the middle of apple season, now would be a perfect time to sample this dish.  And if you have never tasted a French sauté, this one would be a good place to begin.  Maybe it could be the centerpiece of your next Sunday dinner.
 

Poulet Vallée d'Auge

(Chicken with Calvados, Cream, Mushrooms & Apples)

1 T. vegetable oil
1 T. unsalted butter
1 3 1/2 lb. chicken, cut up (see note) or 3 lbs. chicken parts of your choice
8 oz. white button mushrooms, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 large shallot, minced
1 T. picked thyme
1/3 to 1/2 c. Calvados (or brandy)
1 c. chicken stock
1 bay leaf
2 T. unsalted butter

2 to 3 medium apples—Golden Delicious, Gala, Jonagold or Braeburn—peeled, cored and cut into 8 wedges each

1 c. crème fraiche or heavy cream
Salt & Pepper
lemon, if necessary

 Melt the butter with the vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a large straight-sided sauté pan or a wide enameled cast-iron pot. Pat the chicken dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to the pan, skin side down, and brown all over, in batches if necessary to keep from crowding the pan. Regulate the heat as necessary to maintain an active sizzle. When the chicken is golden brown and the skin is crisp and well-rendered, transfer the chicken to a plate and pour off all but a tablespoon or two of the fat.

Add the mushrooms to the pan and sauté until soft and browned—about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and thyme to the pan (adding a bit of butter if the pan seems dry) and cook until soft—a couple of minutes.

Return the chicken pieces to the pan, remove the pan from the heat and add the Calvados. Return the pan to the heat and carefully flambé (either by lighting with a match or tilting the pan if you are using a gas stove). Shake the pan, continuing to cook until the flames subside. (If you prefer not to flambé, simply simmer the calvados until it is well-reduced and thick and bubbly.) Add the stock and the bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid and reduce the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer.

When the white meat pieces are cooked through (after about 15 to 20 minutes), remove them to a plate and cover with foil to keep them warm. Continue to cook the remaining dark meat pieces until very tender and cooked through—another 15 minutes or so.

While the chicken simmers, melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Increase the heat to medium high and when the butter foam subsides, add the apples. Sauté, turning occasionally and reducing the heat if the apples threaten to burn. After the apples have begun to take on some color, season with salt & pepper. Continue to cook until the apples are golden and just tender (about 10 to 15 minutes). Remove the apples to a plate and set aside.

When the dark meat is cooked through, remove to the plate with the white meat. Remove the bay and discard. Add the cream and the sautéed apples to the pan and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly. Taste the sauce and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. If using heavy cream instead of crème fraiche you may need to add a little lemon to lift the flavor a bit. Reduce the heat to very low and return the chicken to the pan along with any resting juices. Cover the pan and briefly allow the chicken to heat through. 

Poulet Vallée d'Auge is traditionally served with rice, noodles or steamed/boiled potatoes. Serves 4 to 6

Notes:

The chicken may be cut into 4 or 8 serving pieces (or you may use parts, as noted in the recipe). It doesn't matter how the chicken is cut up as long as all of the pieces are the same size. For these "Sauté-style" stews, the French traditionally cut the chicken into 8 pieces—2 legs, 2 thighs and 4 breast pieces. The four breast pieces are obtained by taking each split breast and cutting it cross-wise into 2 equal pieces. The other way to cut the chicken is to cut it into quarters—2 leg-thigh joints and 2 breasts. For both methods, the first joint of the wing may be left attached to the breasts.

Like all stews/braises, this dish can be made earlier in the day, or the day before. The cream sauce should not be fully reduced during the initial preparation as it will reduce further during the reheating process. To reheat, place the whole dish in a 350 degree oven and heat through...or gently warm on the stove top over low heat. If you prefer, when you make the dish ahead you could make it just to the point of adding the cream and apples, and then start from that point when you are ready to serve (Store the chicken in the cooking liquid and then reheat the chicken and liquid. Remove the chicken and add the cream and apples, reduce and then return the chicken to the pan as usual.).

Printable Recipe



Autumn Salad with Apples & Shaved Fennel

For the past few weeks I have been working on some recipes for a new Fall class featuring apples. One of the recipes is for a salad that includes thinly sliced apples and shaved fresh fennel. I frequently add shaved fennel to my salads—I love its subtle crunch and mild anise flavor. Its sweet and aromatic presence compliments a wide array of foods, but it is particularly nice with apples (I posted a recipe that featured cooked fennel and apples earlier this month). If you haven't tried fennel, this salad—with its friendly profusion of apples, dried fruit and nuts—would be a great introduction.

To prepare fennel—whether it is to be cooked or eaten raw—cut the stalks off flush with the top of the bulb. The leaves or "fennel fronds" can be saved and used just like any fresh herb. The stalks are tough and stringy and should be discarded (or perhaps used in a stock, where they will contribute flavor before they are strained out). Trim what remains of the root flush with the bottom of the bulb. Remove and discard any of the outer layers that appear to be dry, tough or badly scarred. What remains is ready to be halved and cored.

If you want to shave the fennel for a salad, simply use a mandoline to thinly slice the halves cross-wise.

For the apples, you can use just about any favorite snacking apple as long as it is crisp and juicy. I have used Cameos, Jonagolds, a mix of Cortlands and Haralsons (while visiting friends in Minnesota) and Braeburns. I imagine it would also be pretty tasty with Pink Ladys. My preference is for an apple that has a "sweet-tart" flavor profile—I think these make for a more interesting salad—but you could of course choose something sweet (like a Gala or Fuji) or something tart (like a Granny Smith).

To me, a good salad is all about a lively interplay of flavors and textures—and the remaining ingredients in this salad have been chosen with this in mind:

Dried cranberries echo the sweet-tart taste of the apples and also introduce some nice texture. Golden raisins could be used in place of the dried cranberries and would be a particularly good choice if you are using a very tart apple.

The bitterness of the endive and walnuts provides some needed contrast, depth and balance. Arugula makes an interesting substitution for the endive—instead of tossing it with the fennel and apples, dress it separately and use it as a "bed of greens" for a mound of the dressed apple and fennel.

A salty cheese (like a blue or maybe some Feta or Ricotta Salata), scattered over the plated salad, gives a nice piquant finish. But I have served it without the cheese and the salad was still very good.


The salad is dressed with a tart vinaigrette that I spiked with more sweet apple-y flavor in the form of a small amount of cider reduction (cider simmered until it is thick and syrup-y). If you prefer a creamy vinaigrette, the creamy Dijon dressing I posted with a pear salad last January—made perhaps with a little extra lemon juice—would be very nice.

I hope you will try this salad—or some variation thereof.  All of the ingredients are coming into season now and will continue to fill the markets through the winter.  For me, this salad is a perfect seasonal antidote to the abundance of substantial and rich foods that will fill our tables during the months ahead.    

Autumn Salad of Apples,
Shaved Fennel & Belgian Endive

For the vinaigrette:
1 T. cider reduction (optional)—see below
2 T. White Balsamic Vinegar
2 T. freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice
2 t. Dijon Mustard
Salt & Pepper, to taste
1/2 c. Olive oil

In a small bowl, whisk the cider reduction, vinegar, lemon juice and mustard together until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil in a thin stream to form an emulsion. Taste and correct the seasoning—adding more lemon juice if necessary.

For the salad:
3 or 4 crisp sweet/tart apples—Braeburn, Pink Lady, etc. (about 1 pound)
2 medium heads of fennel, trimmed
3 or 4 heads Belgian Endive (about 12 oz.)
2 T. minced Italian flat leaf parsley
1 T. minced chives
1 T. minced Tarragon
1/2 c. Dried Cranberries—plus more for garnish
1/2 c. coarsely chopped toasted walnuts or pecans—plus more for garnish
4 oz. Blue Cheese (Roquefort, Stilton or Gorgonzola) or Feta—optional

Halve and core the apples. Use a mandoline to slice the apple halves very thinly lengthwise. Place the sliced apples in a large bowl.

Halve the fennel lengthwise and cut out the core. Using a mandoline again, shave the fennel very thinly crosswise and add it to the bowl with the apple.

Halve and core the endives. Place the endive halves cut surface down and cut on an angle into quarter inch wide strips. Add the endive to the bowl with the apples and fennel.

Add the herbs, dried cranberries and nuts and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add enough dressing to generously coat and toss well. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Mound the salad in the center of individual serving plates or one large platter. Crumble the blue cheese over all and garnish with more cranberries and nuts, if desired. Serves 6 to 8.

Notes:

• The apples, endive and fennel will all oxidize if cut too far ahead. The fennel is more stable than the apple and endive—it could be shaved an hour or two ahead—but the apple and endive must be cut right before the salad is to be served.

• If you prefer, you may use all parsley (and omit the chives and tarragon).

Cider Reduction: Place a quart of apple cider in a saucepan. If you like, you may add a piece of cinnamon stick, a clove and a few black peppercorns (or any combination of spices you prefer). Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook at a bare simmer until the cider is thick and syrupy—you will have about a half cup of reduction. As the reduction gets thicker, reduce the heat even more to keep it from scorching.

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